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Cephalotus consolidated

  • #61
Since I got my cephalotus in a large, upside down "U" like growing habit, I potted it up in a little mound around the rhizome thingy, like finding an anthill with a hole and sticking a ceph into it, I think I like this way so the water(I think) will drain down faster to reduce crown rot. I by no means consider myself a ceph expert but I've grwon that ceph to about 5" across so :lol:
"I really wish we had a CP society around here but nothing."
yes, you're right! We need a CP society here in the Dallas area! :-D
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  • #63
Well, was 5 inches across. Now its like 3.5 after all these divisions. All the cephs are rooted cuttings from the big one. Not at his best. Wish he could go back to his glory days. gotta wait till summer :-))
I was tempted to divide it even more but my Mom is like "Too many plants" so yeah
image.jpg1_zpspghaafc0.jpg Photo by walnut4640 | Photobucket
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  • #64
A photo would help alot. I would remove some of the straight sand from directly around the poking out part and add in something to help retain moisture. Maybe 1/3rd peat 2/3 sand. The combo of the dryer than normal rhizome + distubance of roots is likely the cause. Just need to nurse it back to health.

Some live sphagnum about 1" right around the base of the plant can do wonders for helping a stressed plant. This is what I would do if I really wanted to save a plant.

Unfortunately, I do not have any living sphagnum (starting from scratch :) ). But below are the pics. I removed some of the sand pile to expose the stem/rhizome. BTW pitchers have liquid in them. I also add water if it runs out now.

Before I first re-potted it, plant showed signs of a localized crown rot due to being in an enclosed "Death Cube" type container and overran with moss. Dropped some trichoderma solution on the crown in hopes of fighting off/preventing any re-infection.

I began to think about re-potting it into a bigger pot (since the one it is in currently seems not tall enough) once the plant recovers and stabilizes for some time.
Do you still suggest removing the sand and replacing it with soil with perhaps wet LFS around the stem/rhizome. Soil should stay uncovered (no sand layer) for the time being until it recovers?

define very well draining. I have over done this before in the past and had a plant that limped along. I had a small amount of peat in the mix and it produced a very weak plant.

So I ran an experiment and poured about 100mL of water onto the media so that it does not ran off from the sides, but at the same so that most of it in the pot as fast as possible. It took 15 seconds for the water to reach the bottom and start draining. It continued to drain at a decreasing flow rate for another minute or two.
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  • #65
Looks like it is not pulling water up from the roots into the rhizome into the pitchers, the plant hopefully is just allowing the pitchers to die back while it re-establishes itself, but only time will tell. And there is not alot you can do if this is the case. Generally the pitchers dry out first then the leaves then the rhizome, then dead plant. So you should still have some time.

I would keep the medium as consistantly moist as you can manage over the next few weeks, that will help it get the water it is lacking. I think it is a 50/50 gamble as to whether you should wrap the exposed rhizome with some just moist sphagnum.

You still have green stems so there is hope.
  • #66
Hey RSS,

Thank you for the response.
So leave as is, sand and everything (with possible addition of LFS around the rhizome) or remove the sand and add more soil to make a cone around the rhizome?
  • #67
the rhizome doesn't look too tall to me. I wouldn't bother it at this point. looks like transplant shock. like rss said I would just keep it moist at this point and and plant should recover. the more you fiddle with it the more you will set it back.
  • #68
Ok! I shall leave it as it then, and water it more frequently. The humidity in the area reaches 70%, according to the crappy petco meter, when the lid is closed (there is a fan inside to maintain local air circulation).

P.S. Ultimately I would like to grow the Cephs on the windowsill (facing South-East). [MENTION=7151]RSS[/MENTION] and [MENTION=8925]Jcal[/MENTION] if I remember correctly, you both have mentioned that you growing some plants outside the dedicated grow-space (grow-rack or vivarium). So after the plants have recovered from the shock of shipping and excessive fiddling on my part, how do you suggest I "adjust" them for windowsill conditions if now they are under fluorescent lights and elevated humidity? Bring to the windowsill with plant covered like in RSS's post here and slowly over the span of weeks lower humidity by making more holes or lifting the lid?
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  • #69
The Ceph in that post is right now on a windowsill where it will stay, I just divided it up, planted it and covered it with that container. So all I need to worry about is the humidity part.

Just be careful about moving one from low light to high light, you can cook the leaves/pitchers. I've noticed no long term ill effects of this, everyone has recovered just fine, you just lose all/most of the old growth due to cooking :/ New growth started pretty fast. But it is much better for the plant to just move it into the higher light for a few hours a day for a week then a few more ect. Same you would for humidity lowering.

I would just go the easiest route of all, take a healthy plant and move it over to the new grow area for a few hours a day then move it back for that rest of that day. Extending the time it is in its new home each day.
  • #70
Cephalotus are easier than people give them credit for. It's like darlingtonia, don't worry about everything. If it has the right conditions, it will grow. Cephs will do fine on a windowsill
  • #71
People worry too much about a lot of CPs. Just let them grow!
  • #72
People worry too much about a lot of CPs. Just let them grow!

Thats so true I practically ignore and neglect my cephs and they seem to be doing fine. Although I have vowed to take better care of them from now on. But that just means staying on top of weeding and removing dead leaves and pitchers.
  • #73
Hi there, me again :)

This time I have a question about replanting seedlings and pullings from a starter growing containers into long term growing pots. Basically I have 1 rooted pitcher pulling, several leaf pullings (which may or may not root) and a small pot with cephalotus seedlings growing in LFS. At which point it can they be moved into standard mix and bigger pot with minimal risk to loose the plants?

Thanks in advance!
  • #74
I usually wait until they are around nickel size or larger. Depends on what you have them planted in. With plants in spag i can check the roots without issues. Just cover it back over. In a soil mix I just play the waiting game.
  • #75
Everything is in LFS now. So basically it is better to replant seedlings and pullings later even if they are not in optimal soil. I shall wait then.
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  • #76
Big pot experiment:

I believe this is a gallon nursery pot. It's size #2. This plant has been in this container for about a year. It's been in a window that barely gets sunlight. I just moved it under lights now that I have room. I expect it to accelerate with growth. I'm not sure if there are any benefits of growing in a large container but I guess I will find out soon as soon as the plant comes out of dormancy.

  • #77
Crazy plant needs get it together

- - - Updated - - -

I blew it. All the space I just opened up is filled with divisions of Czech giant.

  • #78
Almost at the magic mark. My hummer giant

  • #79
That landing strip on the pitcher is wide!!! Is it customary to measure the length from the top of the lid down?
  • #80
Careful what you ask gill. You may get a comparable answer to the one on CPUK.