I don't know about a minimal length - but most of the pieces were 1-3" long. The roots were originally placed in & among the pieces of live LFS so they had a lot of wet contact area & also access to light. When I'm watering the other plants, I add a little water to this small tray when it's no longer 'shiny'. When the water evaporates enough so only the moss is still wet, I add more. The location is not shaded at all - it's about 12-13" under T-5 lamps. As shown by their willingness to grow in the bottom of the tank (shaded & 20" from lamps), light intensity doesn't appear to be importatnt.Interesting, so let me make sure I understood it: the trimmed pieces (any minimal length?) of the roots were just placed on top of thin layer of sopping wet sphagnum in a shaded location?

Yup - the NASC is always a good target to shoot for. For the potentially pickier plants, it's nice to divide them (or propagate them) now - so they have some time to get established before the auction. In addition to H. pulchella & heterodoxa - there may be a huberi & uncinata that find their way up for bids ...i take it quelchii will be making a plentiful debut next time around may?

Looking over the pot where U. geminiloba grows in pure LFS, tonight I found this:
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This leaf was broken off from the plant when I received it. It was covered with a thin layer of Sphagnum for about a month and a half.

Are you thinking this is unusual?that was from a leaf? could have fooled me---looks like a tuber. congrats! you've successfully propagated an orchidioides utric from a leaf pulling!
This was my original 'safe' approach. However, sometimes the pot & root location required major effort to get into place. I also found that the approach didn't have 100% success (which was a real surprise!). I was pretty happy when I found how successful & easy just snipping off the roots & sticking them in wet live LFS ...Nice job! Very interesting method. I have left the "rolons" attached to the mother plant while "air layering" them in small cups of LFS in water trays. Once established, I "cut the chord".

LOL! When I disturbed the little tray recently to send some pieces out, I was wondering the same thing.Ron,
How long should the bits be left in wet LFS like that - until a few full adult sized leaves develop? Not that long? What if there are just a couple young leaves per strand - should they be left in the wet conditions longer? Will they tend to put on size faster in these conditions than being in a net pot of just moist live moss?
(I sure wish we could get Pyro back into these discussions!!) If I get some time this w/e, I'll transfer some over into pots and try to find out. However, based on what I found when I was digging in that little tray, I might be inclined to go against my instincts (& prior experience) & keep them in very wet live LFS for a while longer. There was a lot of growth in that little tray that was invisible from the top. I found that quite soon, there would be one solid mat of mixed rolons & traps all tangled together.gill_za: very cool pics - thanks for sharing.
I'm very curious about people's success with this species. I've read numerous accounts of folk's having problems growing it. So far, mine has been a super-robust grower without odd idiosyncrasies. I believe RSS has had similar experience.
It will be interesting to see your results. When I did a similar test, plants grew the same in both media for a while. After the initial period, the pure LFS pot just took off & it was no longer close. I found something similar with all of the original Orchidioides as well as U. nelumbifolia & humboldtii. U. reniformis & nephrophylla both did better in peat mixes for me.Yesterday I transferred the above leaf and few stolons in Aps/Live_sphag/cypress_mulch/peat (3/2/1/1) mix just as an experiment. So I have 3 colonies of the plant at the moment.

I found something similar with all of the original Orchidioides as well as U. nelumbifolia & humboldtii. U. reniformis & nephrophylla both did better in peat mixes for me.
Are you thinking this is unusual?

for orchidoides, it should be no different, but i think there are specific conditions that need to be met in order to successfully take.![]()

Agree. Sometimes Orchidioides leaves sprout easily and sometimes not at all. I'm not completely clear on what differentiates the two ...for orchidoides, it should be no different, but i think there are specific conditions that need to be met in order to successfully take.![]()

Excellent news! Do you actually have seed & has it sprouted? I've had some asplundii x asplundii pollinations produce tons of seed - and yet none sprouted!Some news to share with you guys concerning a couple orchidioides and pollination:
campbelliana DOES self pollinate!![]()

I wouldn't draw an overall conclusion yet. I'm seeing odd stuff happen with these plants (like the asplundii pollination mentioned above). Also, in Bob's photofinder, there are pics of a U. nelumbifolia x U. nephrophylla cross. I've tried this cross several times & never got anything. Herr Fleischmann has suggested that the smaller pollen tubes in U. nephrophylla may simply be unable to do the job --- but then I see these pics! (The reverse cross has worked twice for me - but with minimal seed set both times -- minimal but viable). I've also had a few other crosses that didn't work that made me wonder what's going on.but, on a sad note, quelchii does not self.
Sure does - I hope it's real (Pyro has had ovary swelling with zero seeds inside).looks like ovary swelling