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Only Moderately Temperate Sarrs: Your Thoughts

CorneliusSchrute

A leuco by any other name would still be as glutto
So this is my first year--and first will be first winter--growing Sarracenia indigenous to the extreme southern portion of the genus's range. The plants I am thinking of in particular are of course S. psittacina, a few of its related hybrids, and S. rosea in addition to S. purpurea ssp. venosa. I have had warmer growing Sarracenia in the past (S. flava, etc.) and successfully overwintered them in small unheated greenhouse alongside S. purpurea ssp. purpurea and VFTs (I live in zone 6b, namely south-eastern Missouri near Arkansas). These truly warmer growing plants have me a bit stymied, however. Where should I overwinter these plants?

And thus my question for you: given the option, would you either

a) overwinter these potted plants alongside the other more temperate growing Sarracenia in an unheated greenhouse?

b) keep these plants in a southern windowsill in doors (my windows are old and not well-insulated, i.e. cool)?

c) not move the plants leaving them exposed to the elements all winter?

I doubt anyone will select option C, but I thought I would include to be equal opportunity. ;)
 
I should also mention while I am at it that I will be overwintering Darlingtonia (adult plants and seedlings) for the first time this year. I figure they will be fine in the greenhouse with the majority of the Sarracenia, though.
 
The unheated greenhouse method should work fine for psitticina and p.p.venosa but I can't speak for rosea. I grow all my Sarracenia outside in bogs all year round and the only plants to ever succumb during winter are S.rosea and the antho-free variety of S.rubra jonesii. I've tried these plants repeatedly with the same results. They just can't take the deep freezes we get up here. Results may be different though if the plants are buffered from the harshest elements in a greenhouse.
 
Interesting. I had heard psittacina could be freeze vulnerable. I greatly value your opinion and experience; thanks for your insight!

What is your climate zone in Boston? 7? Or is it considered something different thanks to the proximity to the ocean?
 
I'm actually one town north of Boston and we're in 5a-6b depending on the year. Boston proper stays a bit warmer because it's right on the water. Last year a couple nights got down to -11 making it 5a. The psitticina, minor and a few forms of leucophylla (especially antho-free forms) don't love our winters but they pull through. I've never mulched my bogs before but I will this year. Those few subzero nights last year coupled with absolutely no snow cover did in all my vft's and any Sarracenia I put in late in the season.
 
Again, good to know.

I guess I have a related question then: would the S. psittacina and related hybrids survive for an extended period if they lived on the window sill each winter? It might be sappy, but I miss my plants in the winter, and it would be cool to have some of them in the house for viewing.
 
a) overwinter these potted plants alongside the other more temperate growing Sarracenia in an unheated greenhouse?
That's probably fine..although I worry that might be *too* warm..
If its 40 degrees and sunny outside (which is ideal for Sarr dormancy) it might be too warm inside the greenhouse.
But if it stays reliably 35 to 50 F inside the greenhouse all winter, (but not warmer!) then its probably fine..

b) keep these plants in a southern windowsill in doors (my windows are old and not well-insulated, i.e. cool)?

Definitely not..unless its an unheated room that stays in the 40's or 50's all winter, it will be far too warm..
any room that is heated for human habitation in the winter will be way too warm..drafty windows probably wont help.

c) not move the plants leaving them exposed to the elements all winter?

In your warm climate, zone 7, that would probably also be fine..
most people in zone 7 can overwinter Sarrs fine outdoors..
So I vote for A) or C), but defiantly not B).
For the greenhouse, or outdoors, it all depends on which keeps the better temp..just above freezing..

With "Northern" Sarrs, they can *handle* the cold, (below freezing) but they dont *need* the cold to go dormant.
As far as dormancy is concerned, they are just fine in the warmer winter that "southern sarrs" get..
35 to 50 degrees F for the winter is ideal for any and all Sarrs and VFT's..
Thats cold enough that they wont grow for the winter, and will remain truly dormant for a few months, which is what they need.

Greenhouse is probably the best..it will keep it warmer when you have cold-snaps below freezing..
and if you hit really warm days in the winter, say 50 or above during the day, it could easily get to 70 inside the greenhouse..
thats too warm for mid-winter..can you open vents to make sure it doesn't get too warm inside for those warm days?

Scot
 
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Thanks for your response, too, Scot. I have read your blog, particularly your extended post about dormancy. Good reading!

I did have a thought while perusing your reply. I thought I remembered reading somewhere that colder temps play a part in triggering dormancy for Sarracenia, but reduced light is what keeps them there. In other words, it was my understanding that a few cold nights (with the reduced photo period) began dormancy, but warm snaps during winter don't necessarily break or interrupt a plants hibernation. Instead, it is the increase in daylight hours in the spring that wake up these sleeping beauties. If this is true, then a letting plants "feel" a few cold nights in the fall would get them to sleep, and then a cooler window sill should be fine to keep them dormant.

Thoughts? I might have just made all of that up subconsciously. :S
 
I should clarify I am only speaking in regards to the warmer growing species mentioned in the original post.
 
  • #10
Thanks for your response, too, Scot. I have read your blog, particularly your extended post about dormancy. Good reading!

I did have a thought while perusing your reply. I thought I remembered reading somewhere that colder temps play a part in triggering dormancy for Sarracenia, but reduced light is what keeps them there. In other words, it was my understanding that a few cold nights (with the reduced photo period) began dormancy, but warm snaps during winter don't necessarily break or interrupt a plants hibernation. Instead, it is the increase in daylight hours in the spring that wake up these sleeping beauties. If this is true, then a letting plants "feel" a few cold nights in the fall would get them to sleep, and then a cooler window sill should be fine to keep them dormant.

Thoughts? I might have just made all of that up subconsciously. :S

I believe it is a combination of light and cold..you need both to start, and to end dormancy..

it was my understanding that a few cold nights (with the reduced photo period) began dormancy,

It's a lot more than "a few"! ;)
Humans have a 24 hour wake/sleep cycle..
plants have a year-long growing/dormancy cycle..

Dormancy is triggered by 4 months of slowly decreasing photoperiod, and slowly decreasing temps..
Light levels begin to decrease in late June, Summer Solstice,
and temps gradually decrease through all of September and October..
For Sarrs and VFT's, they are usually fully dormant by the beginning of November..
but they *need* those several months to slowly go dormant..it's not a quick process..

The process of "going dormant" happens through the entire months of July, August, September and October..
With September and October probably being the most important months..
So it could be considered a 4-month process (for light decreasing)..
but its certainty a 2-month process at the minimum. (for both light and temp decreasing)
It takes a lot more than "a few days" of cool temps to do it..

If this is true, then a letting plants "feel" a few cold nights in the fall would get them to sleep, and then a cooler window sill should be fine to keep them dormant.

No, wrong..because:
1. As I said, it takes much more than a few cold nights to trigger dormancy..
2. increased light in the Spring is a factor for coming out dormancy, but its not the *only* factor..warm temps play a part too..

Think of spring bulbs..daffodils, crocus, etc..Many years they can pop up "early"..What triggers an early appearance?
early warm temps..not the light.
One or two warm days in January wont do it..it takes at least a week or two..
but bulbs can sprout in February, or April, depending on if the Spring warmth is "early" or "late"..
So temp is definitely a factor, in addition to light..
I believe both are equally important..

If you did this:
If this is true, then a letting plants "feel" a few cold nights in the fall would get them to sleep, and then a cooler window sill should be fine to keep them dormant.

They wouldnt go dormant at all..because its not enough time to trigger dormancy.
and if they *were* dormant, say from being outside Aug-Sep-Oct, then warm temps indoors could bring them out of dormancy far too early..

Plants need that yearly cycle..
Spring - temps slowly and gradually increase and light slowly and gradually increases, brings plants of dormancy..the process takes months.
Summer - Plants are actively growing.
Autumn - temps slowly and gradually decrease and light slowly and gradually decreases, puts plants into dormancy..the process takes months.
Winter - Cool temps and low light keep plants dormant..

There are no shortcuts.
plants are designed to work under this year-long cycle..

Scot
 
  • #11
Good points on all accounts, Scot. I guess I was just curious how strictly the the few in question adhere to the rules of nature.

Since my montana purp and rosea were just recently obtained (came in the mail a few days ago), I think I will let them both acclimate for a few days on the window sill. I figure the rules mentioned above might be thrown a curve ball if the roots aren't acclimated yet. After a brief acclimation I will put the montana outside. I think I am going to risk it with the rosea and let him live inside this year. I remember reading on Barry Rice's site that some have had luck growing them in terraria indefinitely.

Thanks folks! *fingers crossed*
 
  • #12
Maybe this will help. I live in Zone 7b and I keep my Sarracenias outdoors all year, no protection. None needed, they are fine in Zone 7 outdoors. Granted, I don't have very many. My only concern would be plants in pots with no protection when a cold snap moves through. A few years back we got to -22F here, and it stayed below freezing for over a week. Another problem we have is some of our winters are very mild where we will have days around 70F in December and early January, but that doesn't happen often. Those things are not the norm, they happen very infrequently. The average lows / highs in Zone 7 are pretty good for Sarracenia throughout winter. I believe what Scot was saying in the post above mine, and I agree, is it's best to leave them outdoors all year so they can experience the normal temp and light cycles that they would in nature, and doing so will ensure their health. Bringing them inside and out again will throw their natural cycle off balance, bringing them out of dormancy too early and eventually could lead to their deaths but for sure will lead to poor health.
 
  • #13
Hmmm.. All of mine are in pots. Would the collective you keep a freshly shipped and potted Sarr outside as well?
 
  • #14
It dawns on me that I should explain my greenhouse, too. It is one of those cheap instant tents that is about six feet by six feet. I leave the door and window plastic off thus having a steady breeze and air exchange. Also, j keep a shade cover on it to prevent excessive heat build up.

As such, my "greenhouse" mostly just buffers from the really bad stuff.

For what it is worth, we had a day in the sixties this week and the tent barely made it up to the mid seventies.
 
  • #15
Hmmm.. All of mine are in pots. Would the collective you keep a freshly shipped and potted Sarr outside as well?

Depends on who you bought it from, and where and how it has been living for the past year or so..

If its a "death cube" type plant from a garden center, then its a recent tissue culture plant, and it really has no idea what season it is..
It has probably been growing indoors all of its life so far, in weak light and warmth..so it "thinks" its currently living in a warm cloudy summer..
In that case, this time of year (late October), putting it outside would be a shock..
it should be nearly fully dormant right now, but it isnt, because its been growing indoors..its not ready for winter right now.
In that case, leave it indoors for this winter, then put it outside in the Spring..
It will then have a full Spring/Summer/Autumn to re-set its internal clock, and it will be ready for a proper dormancy next winter.

If its a plant you just bought from an actual reputable CP nursery, then it has probably been growing outside all of this year..
In which case it "knows" what season it is right now, and should be just about dormant already..
In that case, keeping it outdoors right now would definitely be the right thing to do..

So..where did you get the plants? and do you know (or can you find out) how they been growing for the past 10 months?

(just FYI, for future reference, Autumn is the *worst* possible season for buying new Sarrs or VFT's! ;)
Spring is best, summer is ok..Autumn and winter are bad..
you want to buy in the Spring just for the reasons we have been discussing..giving your new plant a full growing season
so it can be properly acclimated for a proper winter dormancy..)

Scot
 
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  • #16
I had heard it was best to buy I these plants in the spring, but these were actually swag from a great swap with a member here (thanks, Dan!). They were grown outside and have the seasonal rhythm in step methinks. Our weather is warming up this week, anyway, so I figure I would enjoy the plants inside for a few more nights and then more them outside with my others so they can enjoy a not-so-sudden change.

Thanks again for the sage guidance, gang!
 
  • #17
From my experiences in Zone 7b psittacina and purpurea stay evergreen. All purps are pretty cold hardy. So called purp venosa ranges into New Jersey, so yours should be fine.
 
  • #18
From my experiences in Zone 7b psittacina and purpurea stay evergreen.

Even here in zone 6b that is my experience, too. None of my purps have died back over the winter in years past. What cool plants!
 
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