nepenthes gracilis
Nepenthes Specialist
Stefano i said my Rajah is about as fast as a Bical. It isn't a slow plant for me. On the contraty it is a very standard Nepentehs that grows about as fast as a Bical in my experience.
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I don't know enough profanity...
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Hi swords,
you know what? Bical is the only nep that doesn't grow anymore if the growing tip if cut off. Never. This is just some weird thing that only happens to bicals and there is nothing you can do about it.
So, my advice to you is to get that plant in a package as quickly as possible and send it to *ME* so I can give it a proper burial in my lowland ta... no, I mean back yard. It is essential you do this soon, before the nodes start gro... I mean before its too late. So hurry to your local post office today.
-noah
p.s. I mean it...
you know what? Bical is the only nep that doesn't grow anymore if the growing tip if cut off. Never. This is just some weird thing that only happens to bicals and there is nothing you can do about it.
So, my advice to you is to get that plant in a package as quickly as possible and send it to *ME* so I can give it a proper burial in my lowland ta... no, I mean back yard. It is essential you do this soon, before the nodes start gro... I mean before its too late. So hurry to your local post office today.
-noah
p.s. I mean it...
Don't worry about a thing. I have had those kind of things happen on many occasions. The plant looks healthy, and it will grow right out of its little accident. It has a decent root structure at this juncture and will feed the rest of the plant just fine which will force out new growth either out a bud, or possibly, if it only broke part of the growth tip, a new leaf will be low enough down into the tip it will continue to grow. In a few months' time you won't even remember it.
Kim
Kim
"In a few months time" - that's what really sucks!
This plant was cruisin for me so in a few months time (minus the accident) I could have been fighting my plant with a sword!
Stefano I don't know what to say, I've been litterally dumbfounded by the plants size and speed of putting out leaves. The bical I have is the 'red trap' variety maybe the orange/yellow is slower?
Do you feed yours (naturally or with fertilizers)? I put one or two houseflies or japanese beetles in each pitcher just a few days after they open. I also give the plants a bi-weekly watering of Yamato Green liquid trace elements (minute amount of K plus Fe, Mg, Bo, Zn, Ca, Cu, etc...) YG is actually a liquid aquarium fertilizer but works great on various houseplants and I guess my neps too. I use only 3-5 drops per gallon of YG (it's made by a retired minister in Neveda - sold only online) but I'm sure you can probably use most any trace element mix. (I only use YG because the copper content is very low and is safe for my fish and shrimps in the planted fishtanks even if I accidentally overdose a few ml the shrimps will be safe).
Bicals need very high humidity and stagnant air. Less air circulation seems to be a key for this one because the orchid shop while registering about 70%+ humidity did not grow this plant well. In the photo you can see dark green burnt edged leaves below the big green ones-these were leaves made at the local orchid shop which does have very good circulation and grows other nep species very successfully - it's nice to see neps like veitchii and clipeata bigger than me)! Perhaps they simply had it in a bad placement... But anyway my terrarium is nearly sealed and is 90% humidity or more night and day. The plant is also 12" or so under 240 watts (6 tubes) of flourescent lights...
Hope that helped some!
This plant was cruisin for me so in a few months time (minus the accident) I could have been fighting my plant with a sword!
Stefano I don't know what to say, I've been litterally dumbfounded by the plants size and speed of putting out leaves. The bical I have is the 'red trap' variety maybe the orange/yellow is slower?
Do you feed yours (naturally or with fertilizers)? I put one or two houseflies or japanese beetles in each pitcher just a few days after they open. I also give the plants a bi-weekly watering of Yamato Green liquid trace elements (minute amount of K plus Fe, Mg, Bo, Zn, Ca, Cu, etc...) YG is actually a liquid aquarium fertilizer but works great on various houseplants and I guess my neps too. I use only 3-5 drops per gallon of YG (it's made by a retired minister in Neveda - sold only online) but I'm sure you can probably use most any trace element mix. (I only use YG because the copper content is very low and is safe for my fish and shrimps in the planted fishtanks even if I accidentally overdose a few ml the shrimps will be safe).
Bicals need very high humidity and stagnant air. Less air circulation seems to be a key for this one because the orchid shop while registering about 70%+ humidity did not grow this plant well. In the photo you can see dark green burnt edged leaves below the big green ones-these were leaves made at the local orchid shop which does have very good circulation and grows other nep species very successfully - it's nice to see neps like veitchii and clipeata bigger than me)! Perhaps they simply had it in a bad placement... But anyway my terrarium is nearly sealed and is 90% humidity or more night and day. The plant is also 12" or so under 240 watts (6 tubes) of flourescent lights...
Hope that helped some!