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What might be wrong with my Nepenthes | Soft tip, yellowing/blackening lower leaves

The new pitcher tip is very soft and flexible and the lower leaves are yellowing/dying
I got it about two weeks ago. Right now it's sitting about 6 inches under a 5600k 24w cfl , 12 hours. There's airflow and it's about 50 - 60 degrees (unheated room)

It's a (Spectabilis x Ventricosa ) x Aristolochioides



THank you.
Hard to tell what is going on for sure there. It does look a little wet (might be that you just watered it), and I see a tray underneath it. Most neps do not tolerate being waterlogged very well, so using a tray is not recommended unless you are just using it to catch the runoff. In which case you just want to make sure you let the media have time to dry out a little before watering again.

Another thing to think about is your max temp. 55-60 is great for a night time temp, but most highland nepenthes like a warmer day time temp around the 70s. The fluctuation of temps between night and day is vital for some HLer's.

What is your humidity like?
Considering that it is a complex hybrid with ventricosa as a parent, the temperature fluctuation (or lack there-of) is probably not a factor which, alone, would lead to this plant's death. However, as OregonCp said, Nepenthes do not tolerate sitting in water for very long and they are prone to root-rot in such conditions. If the plant is not already suffering from root-rot I would take all necessary measures to ensure that it does not have the chance to get exposed. From your pictures, the plant appears to be somewhat healthy, even if the growth tip is a bit soft.

It is possible that the plant is just under-going normal stress associated with just recently purchasing a plant and putting it into a new and (potentially) less ideal growing environment.

Furthermore, if the water you are using is just conventional city tap water, this could easily be the cause for yellowing of leaves and limpness in the growth tip. Hope that helps
1) if its a new plant, it needs to acclimate in a high humidity environment, and since you seem to have the plant in the open air of the room (IE: not in a terrarium) it would be better to place it - pot and all - in a bag for several weeks to lessen transpiration stress. Do you have any idea what the relative humidity in the growing area is. Nepenthes are rainforest plants and experience consistently high humidity in their environment, and you should attempt to emulate that as best you can.

2) Nepenthes require variation in day-to-night temps: please engineer a way for night temps in the mid-fifties, and day temps in the seventies, or at least the high sixties. In my greenhouse, night temps drop to 55F and the daytime highs often reach 82F, even in the dead of winter. A fluctuation of fifteen to twenty-five degrees is essential to long term health.

3) do not sit Nepenthes pots in trays; you risk waterlogged soil which can easily lead to root rot, especially if temps are as low as you describe.

Your soil mix looks good, but you may want to let the media dry out a it between watering a, especially while I acclimate sand forms a root system. I'm not talking about DRY soil, but the top half much of soil should LOOK dry-ish before you water again.
The tray is there to catch runoff, I water them with portland city water (which tests close to r.o.)

My neps do this when the soil is too hard/packed. The rosette still growing but the lower leaves turn yellow and slowly die.

This morning i repot a ramispina with this problem, the plant have only 3 green leaves and many yellowish ones.
I had no choice :)
OK, but.....no response to the other questions posed to you?

Sorry i was doing a quick reply before i got ready for work.
The humidity is an about 50% , i think they just got their batch of nepenthes from a grower in hawaii though but their nepenthes is usually acclimated to lower humidity.

The rest of my nepenthes are doing fine right next to eachother though
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As for tempurature, i think it might be too soon for a lack of 25 degree fluctuation to effect it but...right?
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With the highland parentage like that, if the plant has anything wrong with it, then a lack of the needed temperature fluctuations can kill them quickly. Highlanders need to recover in their preferred temperature zones, trying to nurse them to health in a lowland environment will kill them off faster.