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I'm using jacks classic blossom booster 10-30-20. Similarly 1/4 tsp per gal of DI water. I also regularly use superthrive in all its delivery methods. I do not fertilize at the recommended periodicity. Typically, only half as often. I will sub in superthrive when not fertilizing.
Nothing about your posts makes me question if you know what your doing. I recieved a tip from a more seasoned orchid grower that has worked for me. When your doing everything else right, try looking into the lowest temperature that it can handle and holding that temp for several hours. You are likely to get a spike and the resulting inflorenscense will be determined by the number of hours at that given temperature. I will be doing this as spring approaches for my stubborn Dendrobium Spectabile. What ever happens I'll post some photos.
I have just gotten kingianum blooms this year (after a few years of trying). Although a kingianum-newbie ... my plant gets chill-down for as long as I can risk it outside (into October this year), and then it is on a southern windowsill (like, pressed on the window), so that it gets as much light as possible, but gets a hint of the outside temps (esp. at night). I know I could have done better for blooms, but this year is better than last, when they were outside in our humid wet for longer and the bloom spikes went over in the damp humidity. The variety I have has lovely rose-scented blooms, so I would love to have a more spectacular showing. Maybe next year!

Yours is very nice - I think Gadzooks is onto something with playing with the low temp tolerance!!
I realize this won't apply to most people that actively post here, just to the passing reader.

This is a good technique for experienced growers and a great way to be down an orchid if you walk away during the process and accidentally forget the plant.

Plants learn to live where you put them. They grow leaves in equilibrium with light, temperature, available water, etc. If you grow outdoors and delay bringing an orchid in for the season, you can accomplish the temp drop and the orchid is not shocked.

If your orchid is acclimated to growing indoors, taking it out during the day could end up with sunburn because bright indirect outdoor light is still a lot brighter than indoors. Don't get it wrong the orchid loves the extra light, but It's all about leaf temperature. It put out leaves that were adapted to your indoor conditions and it's unable to get rid of the heat.

🤔 as you might have guessed, I've cooked a few. Not crispy, just a nice medium rare. We all learn through failure. I have yet to end up with a orchid that has died of over exposure to either light or cold; I watch over this process. I've found that you can deliver this temperature que without involving the sun and avoid the risk all together. Plants can go days without light.

I'm no expert and I encourage people to do their research. Each plant is unique in its nature and the nurturing we have conditioned it to expect. Serious growers wait years for flowers. Most of us (me included) take some credit, for the decade of prior effort, when we buy a flowering sized orchid and get it to spike.
My Bulbophyllum taiwanense has about 16 flower spikes this year!! This is a huge amount for my plant. Last year I had two spikes. I'm pretty happy. My plant must be too.


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My Bulbophyllum taiwanense has about 16 flower spikes this year!! This is a huge amount for my plant. Last year I had two spikes. I'm pretty happy. My plant must be too.
Wow! That's excellent! -and on a single plant! I don't think that is common for that many spikes. Maybe even twice the normal amount. I guess it's making it up to you for last year 😄. I might be looking into that fertilizer you're using. Looks like you have plump psudobulbs and fine looking leaves we should take note of your success!
So it's not a flower, but I'm trying something truly insane: seed starting in vitro!
Orchid TC by Hawken Carlton, on Flickr
3 species under attempt currently: Platanthera flava, Pogonia ophioglossoides, and Cypripedium acaule. Despite all the dumb mistakes I know I made in flasking everything, somehow there still is no contamination visible yet, and I know there are seeds in all of them that are on the medium.

As an aside, if anyone has some good techniques for sterilizing the seeds without losing most of them because they stick to the syringe/paper/what have you in the process and won't flush out, let me know...
That's some next level stuff! I know there is a high failure rate for flasking because contamination can occur at every stage. You have a very long and rewarding journey ahead of you. Imagine being able to showcase an update in 3-5 years when they flower!

Honestly, we are looking to you to give us those pointers. 😄
Had this Epidendrum "Miura Valley" since Nov 2019

First flower opened on May 20th 🌸 - picture from today
Cirrhopetalum Elizabeth Ann 'Buckleberry'

Intermediate conditions, varying photoperiod, and tray method. Cohabitating with lots of stowaways from the seller's greenhouse


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Well, I finally have something actually worth showing in here (nothing on the seed front even though most of the jars look clean still):
Cynorkis fastigiata by Hawken Carlton, on Flickr
Cynorkis fastigiata by Hawken Carlton, on Flickr
Cynorkis fastigiata by Hawken Carlton, on Flickr
Calopogon tuberosus by Hawken Carlton, on Flickr
Calopogon tuberosus by Hawken Carlton, on Flickr
Calopogon tuberosus by Hawken Carlton, on Flickr
No clue if it will actually follow through, but Habenaria repens also looks to have buds...everything else still either in vegetative state or not awake at all.
Grassy orchids looking 👌. I have read that cynorkis has a reputation for spreading its seeds throughout your grow area and that they'll start growing as "companion plants" - thoughts?

Thanks for sharing 👍
So an update: I have a whole bunch of Cynorkis fastigiata seed packets now. And only from the first out of 6 pods.