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  • #41
Daconyl certainly acted as a mutagen for us
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Would be interested in your Mancozeb concentrations Gus, and how you apply, a foliar spray? Do you wash it off afterwards and if so after how long. Thanks!
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  • #42
In regards to Mancozeb. I use a concentration of 3g (one spoonful) per 1 litre. Thanks for the Help Gus! In addition I have found no long term phytotoxicity in using this fungicide providing you stick to the instructions. I think a dosage of 10X as in systemic use would possibly cause this as it may make the plant weaker. As Gus mentioned, if the symptoms are very bad and it doesn't work then use Zyban. As for the Mancozeb I do rinse it off after a 24hr period but have been advised from Gus just to leave it on as it really won't affect the plant apart from the presence of a white dust. I apply it on the tops and undersides of the leaves only and avoid too much contact with the soil.
The mancozeb attacks the SH group proteins of the fungus and is effective on impact with the infected area.
There are many different active ingredients for fungicides as they each do a particular job (wether they inhibit reproduction, etc..). Mancozeb has the Dithiocarbamate as the active ingredient whereas it is different for Zyban. Mancozeb decomposes naturally in acidic or alkaline soils.
Fongarid won't work on problems such as Cercospora spp. It is designed to deal with root fungus such as damp off, phytophora spp.
 
  • #43
Hi everyone:

I would like to let you all know the concentrations i use of mancozeb. Actually i use Mancozeb plus which is a combination of wettable sulphur at 560g/Kg and 240g/Kg of Mancozeb. I am using 5 g per litre of water.

I use it as a foliar spray, but i spray it thoroughly, making sure the are no spots without the mancozeb.

I don't bother rinsing it off and i have not found any cytotoxic effects on Nepenthes and Cephalotus.

Rob: you certainly have amongst the largest collections of rare Nepenthes in the world, so I can't say use it on all your plants, but as far as i know my green babies are happy and are very tolerant to Mancozeb plus. I mostly have highlanders growing.

Gus
 
  • #44
Thanks very much for the information guys. So far our trials have shown no ill effects so we'll start using it on the nurseries in rotation soon. We use thiophanate ethyl regularly and want to rotate with Mancozeb and others.

One final question - do you use any wetting agent to assist in spreading the powder?
 
  • #45
Rob:

The powder portion of mancozeb is not as soluble in water as the rest of it, but i just mix all of it with water and spray it all over.

Gus
 
  • #46
Hi gus,

That is true. But I always give it a good shake. Hehe.

I read a while ago that Bicarbonate of soda is a natural fungicide. Has anyone other than myself tried this? I have attempted it with a N.ventricosa on the leaves that were exhibiting rust spots. They ceased to grow and the plant did not experience any drawbacks. Let me know on your attempts and explain to me why it has these effects and why one would want to use a fungicide that would cause a fungus to become resistant. They certainly can't become resistant to bicarb, can they?

C
 
  • #47
Chris:

I am not sure whether sodium bicarbonate is a good fungicide but it certainly is a good buffer, so the pH of your soil may change to Neutral or basic . Watch out.

Gus
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  • #48
I would also be concerned with the sodium. Sodium is very toxic to most plants.
 
  • #49
Well I did go to alot of trouble in making sure the bicarbonate did not leach into the soil and sprayed only onto the leaves. I think I'll leave that ingredient in the kitchen cupboard where it belongs. hehe.

I thoughlt I'd bring this topic back to the top. It was three weeks since I sprayed my whole nep house with mancozeb. I did not use the Mancozeb plus Sulfur or the Zyban as a few people mentioned. All plants are showing dramatic size jumps from the previous leaf and are pitchering big and vigorously. I have noticed the red spots have turned brown and are no longer spreading to other parts of the leaves.

Christian
 
  • #51
Thought I would post an after picture for everyone. You can see the biggest difference in the hamata on the wall, but every plant is doing MUCH better.
After a couple rounds of zyban, and a couple rounds of miticide, as well as some trichoderma, they are growing like weeds!
I can't recomend the miticide, and fungicide enough! Even if you don't see evidence of either.
Thanks for all the advice guys!
Robin

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  • #52
WOW that is some mad climbing you have going there. My tallest plant is a mere 2'
 
  • #53
Robin,

That fencing in there seems to have multiple good uses, lol. I know you have probably posted this before, but how bi again is your chamber and what is lighting it?

Thanks,

Joe
 
  • #54
Robin,
Your grow chamber looks like a shower stall...if it is, that's great... lol.
 
  • #55
Hi Trent, and  Joe.
Yep its a shower . Heh, heh.
I highly recomend it.  
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It's insulated as you can see, and I put a storm door on it for easy access.
There is a marine bilge fan inside moving the air, and 2 - 65 watt  6500k flourecent lights inside, that turn off @ 81 degrees
I have a 250w MH on top ,as well as another 3- 65 watt 6500k flourecent lights.
Of my 3 different chambers, this one is producing the best results.
shower1.jpg

shower2.jpg
 
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