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Drosera graomogolensis questions

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Sep 18, 2015
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Warm or cool lighting best for this plant?


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Joined
Dec 19, 2015
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Portland, OR
I've noticed that all of my plants do well under a mix of warm and cool lighting. I try to always have one 6500k bulb for every 3000k or 3500k bulb. I also find this mix of warm and cool light looks the most natural.
 
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Feb 22, 2014
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Mine has grown fine under full 6500k lighting with full red color and large dew drops. I don't think it matters much.
 
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Feb 23, 2014
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:pics: My grao is looking like trash, I need to do something about it. The leaves never seem to fully unroll and the tentacles look fried despite high humidity.
 
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:pics: My grao is looking like trash, I need to do something about it. The leaves never seem to fully unroll and the tentacles look fried despite high humidity.

My plant is doing the same thing right now, conditions seem right under 80F during day with it going below 70 at night. Got humidity fluctuating from 50-70. Peat/sand/perlite. Warm and cool lighting. Was reading you can feed them with beta pellets so I put a little bit on the leaves, the dew got all deformed but that has been noted by other growers. Now it's in the looking like trash mode. Hopefully it recovers. Maybe the lighting is too close to plant?


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Joined
Feb 22, 2014
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It seems a lot of people have trouble with this plant for some reason. Mine grows at 50-60% humidity, 60-70F, about 6 inches under a 2 bulb T5 fixture on a 12-16 hour light cycle. I use a standard peat/perlite mix and a water tray, growing next to other sundews like D. capensis, D. spatulata, D. nidiformis, and D. burmanii. I have fed it whole betta pellets before without any issues. I don't actually have a picture of my plant, I'll have to see if I can take one tomorrow.
 
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Here is my plant currently. Last summer when the photoperiod was longer the leaves were completely red.

QMLkvD5.jpg
 

bluemax

Lotsa blue
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Sep 5, 2011
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Vancouver, Washington State, US
For me it seems as though the line between success and failure falls where the humidity drops below 60% for long periods of time. When I can maintain 70% consistently I see even better results. It is often said that sundews don't require increased humidity to grow and this is true with many species. This one and D. latifolia seem like exceptions to me.

'Good looking plant, nimbulan!
 
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Sep 18, 2015
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Here is my plant currently. Last summer when the photoperiod was longer the leaves were completely red.

QMLkvD5.jpg

What a beautiful looking plant. Maybe it's shocked due to who I bought them off of shipping bare root wrapped in a moist paper towel. I had one back in 2012 before I enlisted but gave it away. That one came potted and used same conditions with no issues. Wish I started it from seed but I can't find any. Do these even produce seeds?


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Joined
Feb 22, 2014
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I was lucky enough to be able to purchase this plant locally so it didn't go through any shipping stress. I don't know how frequently they flower or if they are self-compatible. I've certainly never seen D. graomogolensis seeds for sale.
 
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Apr 19, 2012
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Greeley, CO, USA
I've heard that yes, D. graomogolensis is self-compatible, but they are not prolific seed-setters nor do they flower regularly it seems. Also, I've heard reports that this plant prefers growing in sphagnum moss mixes if temperatures get warm (my own plant seems to concur), and I try to avoid feeding solid foods to my South American plants as the leaves seem to go bad easily. Liquid fertilizers are better tolerated.
 
Joined
Sep 18, 2015
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I've heard that yes, D. graomogolensis is self-compatible, but they are not prolific seed-setters nor do they flower regularly it seems. Also, I've heard reports that this plant prefers growing in sphagnum moss mixes if temperatures get warm (my own plant seems to concur), and I try to avoid feeding solid foods to my South American plants as the leaves seem to go bad easily. Liquid fertilizers are better tolerated.

That could be what happened to me then, plant is young. Could have used too much beta pellet sprinkles on the plant and bam shocked the plant a bit. The plant still keeps growing deformed burnt looking leaves but just now noticed one nice green looking leaf. Maybe it will recover, I definitely won't use the beta food again and I'll try liquid fertilizer instead. Do you recommend orchid or some other stuff?


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Joined
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I repotted my gmall grao yesterday into 100% milled sphagnum. I think the mix I had it in either held too much water, or there was an air bubble in the media that made the root tip dry up since the root didn't look like it did when I first recieved it and potted it. Hopefully it will do better now.
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
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That could be what happened to me then, plant is young. Could have used too much beta pellet sprinkles on the plant and bam shocked the plant a bit. The plant still keeps growing deformed burnt looking leaves but just now noticed one nice green looking leaf. Maybe it will recover, I definitely won't use the beta food again and I'll try liquid fertilizer instead. Do you recommend orchid or some other stuff?


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Personally, I use the Maxsea fertilizer on everything, but any good orchid fertilizer probably works....
 
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Personally, I use the Maxsea fertilizer on everything, but any good orchid fertilizer probably works....

After you dilute it, how do you personally administer the fertilizer?


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Joined
Apr 19, 2012
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Greeley, CO, USA
I don't spray, I use a pipette to drop it on the leaves, so as to avoid most risk of it getting into the soil and either messing up roots or causing algae to grow (neither is a very good thing).
 
Joined
Dec 19, 2015
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Location
Portland, OR
I don't spray, I use a pipette to drop it on the leaves, so as to avoid most risk of it getting into the soil and either messing up roots or causing algae to grow (neither is a very good thing).

If I get some on the soil I just flush it with water. Though a pipette would probably work a lot better, with less hassle.
 
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