All Things Petiolaris

[Robster_24]

Have any of you guys had success with growing from seeds? i am considering growing from seed because i rarely see adult plant for sale other than D. Falconeri and D. Petiolaris. So if you guys have had success with seeds please let me know!!! Thanks!

 

[amphirion]

@rob: it's a mixed bag, most of the seed in circulation, especially species seed, is old, most with dismal germination rates, but i think this has to do with how the seeds were stored if anything. Rare Exotic Seeds in canada has decent germination rates for ordensis.

 

[bluemax]

Banksii and petiolaris are a world apart, no relation there, same with subtilis, they are unique and appear to be a tuberous drosera at first glance (like a pygmy peltata), but instead grow like burmanni or indica as a annual (although some burmanni and indica can live for a few years if they hit the right bog/seep).

I agree that D. banksii is an oddball. Not only in being an annual plant but the appearance seems more in line with the tuberous sundews. Still, the few sources I can see that mention it place it with the petiolaris complex. There is a lot of work to be done with the taxonomy of these plants and I wouldn't be surprised to see changes in the future. What little I can find out about D. subtilis places it with the tuberous sundews.

 

[bluemax]

Thanks you guys, and Mark you mentioned that you have a fan to circulate the air in your tank, is this this absolutely necessary to have good air circulation? because in my setup it is almost completely sealed in. Will this work or would you recommend a fan for circulation?

I wanted to increase humidity and cut back on fungus, which was a problem when feeding, so I put in the fan. It's done the job but I don't think it is essential. If I was putting together a new setup I would go without awhile and see if there is a reason I needed one.

I have grown D. dilatato-petiolaris from seed. It wasn't difficult as Drosera seed goes. On the other hand I received a packet of D. broomensis seed that never germinated. I agree with Amphirion that getting good seed is probably the main challenge.

 

[Robster_24]

Thanks again guys ill try and snatch up any live plants that i see for sale and only resort to seed if i really want the plant or i think the seed is good quality!

 

[bluemax]

Some Good Resource Links

I was drooling over some great photos of sundews the other day and I came across a link to a magazine with a paper describing the more newly-listed petiolaris sundew species. Sometimes I wonder if I actually have the right species name and I am guessing maybe a few more out there have had the same issue. There are even line-drawn illustrations: http://florabase.dpaw.wa.gov.au/nuytsia/article/253

And if you don't know about the CP Photofinder you are in for some hours of amazement: http://cpphotofinder.com/

 

[jimscott]

 

[bluemax]

Those look great, Jimscott. They are the most traps I've ever seen in a photo of Drosera caduca.

 

[jimscott]

Thanks... perhaps we can do a trade sometime.

 

[Robster_24]

whats a good watering schedule for petiolaris plants? how high should the water be in the tray? and should i let the water evaporate before watering again? thanks!

 

[bluemax]

It partly depends on the height of the pots you use but I use 4" to 6" tall disposable cups to pot in and I have the water levels at about 1/2" in the trays they stand in. I find the plants like being top-watered about once a week and as long as they don't get dry it is o.k. to let the water level go down in the tray between refillings. A periodic top-flushing of the pots, say every 2 months or so, will help keep the soil 'sweet'. At least this has worked for me.

 

[Not a Number]

Well Allen Lowrie's new Magnum Opus Carnivorous Plants of Australia Vols 1,2 &3 is shipping. The will be plenty of the latest on the Petiolaris Complex (or whatever it may be called now). Expect some reclassification.

http://icps.proboards.com/post/38911

I'd include links to the books on Redfern but don't want to appear to be a spammer

 

[RL7836]

A periodic top-flushing of the pots, say every 2 months or so, will help keep the soil 'sweet'. At least this has worked for me.

I had a horrible time trying to keep my pots from being anaerobic. Forbes didn't even try & his pots were very anaerobic - & his Petio's grew like weeds - they cared a lot less than I did - silly me!

I was drooling over some great photos of sundews the other day and I came across a link to a magazine with a paper describing the more newly-listed petiolaris sundew species. Sometimes I wonder if I actually have the right species name and I am guessing maybe a few more out there have had the same issue. There are even line-drawn illustrations: http://florabase.dpaw.wa.gov.au/nuytsia/article/253

When I saw this post, I was surprised to hear that there were more species added to section Lasiocephala - but alas - the list was "new" in 1996.

I'd include links to the books on Redfern but don't want to appear to be a spammer

When it's something good, it's not really spam

 

[bluemax]

Not a Number: An important event for sure. If anyone is going to buy the series and wants to do a summery of changes or additions for the petiolaris 'dews that would be excellent.

RL7836: Sorry about getting your hopes up on "new" species. Now we need a summary article of Lowries' new taxonomy for the CPN, perhaps.

I find when I repot that my plants deal with anaerobic conditions often. 'Doesn't seem to cause any real problems. Just the same it does make me wonder if there is a better way that wouldn't be a lot of effort.

 

[Robster_24]

Hey, my new Drosera Paradoxa (thank you Bluemax!) is producing anther plant on is stem. I'll try to post pics later when I get home, but how long should I let it grow before removing it for repotting? Thanks!

 

[bluemax]

Hey, my new Drosera Paradoxa is producing anther plant on is stem. I'll try to post pics later when I get home, but how long should I let it grow before removing it for repotting? Thanks!

I generally remove and pot the plantlets on paradoxa when they are about 3/8s of an inch long. It is important to keep the soil a bit on the extra moist side for the first few weeks. Lots of humidity helps, as well. I try to cut off the plantlets as close to the main stem as possible without damaging it.

 

[Tanukimo]

What it all comes down to for me is the petiolaris sundews need all the regular things sundews need: relatively high light levels, lots of water and fairly standard Drosera soil. But what they need besides is humidity in the 70%+ levels and temperatures that never go below the 70's F., unless you are intentionally inducing dormancy. How you produce these conditions can vary a lot. In truly tropical climates they can be grown out of doors.

It seems to me like they are some of the most difficult Drosera to grow. They are like the Heliamphora of Drosera. I have a lot to learn until I can grow them. Could lowland Nepenthes be grown in these conditions? Your setup is so involved that I feel it wouldn't make sense for me to set it up for one plant or just a few. The night drop from a Mediterranean climate wouldn't help.

 

[rcl27]

I would assume most lowlanders could be grown in these conditions. Just make sure they are more of the swamp variety.

My falconeri was doing well in my terrarium, but once I finally figured out to get some lower temps for the other plants (low 60's) the falconeri took a plunge. It went from about 1 1/2" wide to almost in dormancy. I ordered a few high ceiling grow trays and have since moved my falconeri, ampullaria, and bicalcarata into the closet. Temps easily get into the 80's with the 4 T8's and, since it is in a closet, it rarely drops below 75 at night. They have been in there for about 2 weeks and all three plants have been kicking ***. The falconeri shot back up from a diameter of about 1/2 inch and is almost back up to its previous size.

So when they say don't let it drop below 65F, that is not a suggestion lol.

 

[bluemax]

It seems to me like they are some of the most difficult Drosera to grow. They are like the Heliamphora of Drosera. I have a lot to learn until I can grow them. Could lowland Nepenthes be grown in these conditions? Your setup is so involved that I feel it wouldn't make sense for me to set it up for one plant or just a few. The night drop from a Mediterranean climate wouldn't help.

'Difficult' is relative, I guess. I've got a few species of sundews that keep me asking "what do they want?" For now, those are difficult for me. With petiolaris 'dews they want warmth and if you give it to them, along with the other standard sundew requirements, they are hardy and fast-growing.

I find it a bit embarrassing that my setup is complex, and it is, as I just don't see that as essential. Some of this is due to growing warmth-needing plants in a cold room. On the other hand I grow in a 10 gallon aquarium tank and I really don't have a lot of money tied up in my set up.

 

[bluemax]

I would assume most lowlanders could be grown in these conditions. Just make sure they are more of the swamp variety.

My falconeri was doing well in my terrarium, but once I finally figured out to get some lower temps for the other plants (low 60's) the falconeri took a plunge. It went from about 1 1/2" wide to almost in dormancy. I ordered a few high ceiling grow trays and have since moved my falconeri, ampullaria, and bicalcarata into the closet. Temps easily get into the 80's with the 4 T8's and, since it is in a closet, it rarely drops below 75 at night. They have been in there for about 2 weeks and all three plants have been kicking ***. The falconeri shot back up from a diameter of about 1/2 inch and is almost back up to its previous size.

So when they say don't let it drop below 65F, that is not a suggestion lol.

Nice that you grow Nepenthes low-landers and petiolaris 'dews together. It seems like it should be possible but until someone actually does it...

As for the minimum temps I have to wonder if there is anyone who grows petiolaris sundews who hasn't thrown their plants into dormancy, or near-dormancy, early on. I lost an amazing all-red, seedgrown D. dilatato-petiolaris that way.