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Wintering an indoor VFT

I know that the biggest problem with growing a VFT indoors is the dormancy period, or lack thereof, and I am trying to figure out a way to do it successfully, so I figured I'd run something past the experts here. How do you think it would work if I put the plants next to a window and cracked the window? I live in Minnesota so it gets pretty cold here and hopefully with the window just barely open the cold would come in a little. I can monitor the temperature of the plants with a thermometer to make sure they get into the proper range. Any and all input would be appreciated.
 
Are you growing on a windowsill or under artificial lights? Another element of dormancy you need to consider is light since the decrease in photoperiod also lets the plant know that it's time to sleep.
 
...why dont you grow them outside?
 
you could do it but you will have to leave your window cracked all winter...not sure if you realy want to do that!
 
It's on a windowsill, but it doesn't get much light there so I have it under some artificial lights as well. I have been decreasing the photoperiod to match sunup and sundown. Will this satisfy the photoperiod requirements?

I can't grow them outside because I live in a garden level apartment in an urban area. They would be between buildings so they wouldn't get much light and I'm a little worried about someone messing with them.

I don't have much of a problem keeping the window cracked for the winter. I have the radiator pipes running through my apartment so it gets rather warm. I usually keep a window cracked anyway just to cool off the place.
 
Is there an attic with a window. I used to keep mine right at a window sill for the winter and let the natural photoperiod and coldness dictate when it wakes up.
 
My VFT is on a windowsill that only gets direct sunlight from about 2-7 PM :/ I have a little Flourescent light that's providing supplemental light but I can tell it's mostly insufficient because the new traps that have just opened have very wide petioles, that and they're all twisty from me turning the pot around, so being indoors is definitely not ideal.

I'm new to the scene as well, So my advice is somewhat limited, but the temp in this room stays generally pretty cool at around 60-70 degrees if i can help it, and the wind blows right at the window my VFT is on so when the time comes it'll probably get downright frigid within the proximity of the window. So I'm hoping This will be enough to get it to go into dormancy but I suppose I'll see. If Halloween rolls around and it's still growing now traps(like it is now) Then I may try moving it outside to speed things up, but I'm making sure that I keep the photoperiod well-regulated, only turning the light off/on about an hour before/after sunset/sunrise, putting some shade up if i have the room light on at night, etc.

So from one noob to another, I share with you my paranoia from generally sucking at growing plants. If you happen to notice anything odd or otherwise good to do, we should keep each other informed :)
 
My VFT is on a windowsill that only gets direct sunlight from about 2-7 PM :/ I have a little Flourescent light that's providing supplemental light but I can tell it's mostly insufficient because the new traps that have just opened have very wide petioles, that and they're all twisty from me turning the pot around, so being indoors is definitely not ideal.

I'm new to the scene as well, So my advice is somewhat limited, but the temp in this room stays generally pretty cool at around 60-70 degrees if i can help it, and the wind blows right at the window my VFT is on so when the time comes it'll probably get downright frigid within the proximity of the window. So I'm hoping This will be enough to get it to go into dormancy but I suppose I'll see. If Halloween rolls around and it's still growing now traps(like it is now) Then I may try moving it outside to speed things up, but I'm making sure that I keep the photoperiod well-regulated, only turning the light off/on about an hour before/after sunset/sunrise, putting some shade up if i have the room light on at night, etc.

So from one noob to another, I share with you my paranoia from generally sucking at growing plants. If you happen to notice anything odd or otherwise good to do, we should keep each other informed :)

Yours, being in West Texas, should be able to remain outside all year long. his, being in Minnesota, should be outside from spring to fall and kept ~40 F for the winter.
 
Usually I'm strongly against indoor VFTs, but it sounds like this is about your only choice. You've got the right idea. Keep in mind that VFTs can grow successfully in more southern latitudes than they're native, so long as they can observe a shift in seasons. By my understanding, VFTs can handle winters in the 50s/60s so long as there are no really warm highs and all the other seasonal cues are present. Decreasing the light is critical, and you may want to have your artificial photoperiod slightly shorter (by maybe 1/2 to 1 hour) than actual sunup/sundown. Also, try to water less. The pot should always be wet as usual, but keep the water line lower than you would in the summer; my guideline is no higher than 1/4 of the root depth/pot height. If you can, get the pot right up next to the window, and maybe box it in if you have some cardboard or something that you can use to make sure that incoming cold air has a chance to thoroughly circulate around the plant.
~Joe
 
  • #10
...just keep in mind that light is not a important factor after they go dormant....so you can get the tubes out after they go to sleep

one more observation....i did try last season a experiment with one of my dews (''california sunset''). I just place it in my room on the window sill, keep it on the dry side and it did go dormant at room temps ....and come back in spring just fine. So i'm guessing that light is the most important factor in going dormant and some plants don't care about the temp drop. I didn't try with vft yet!
 
  • #11
It sounds like what you want to do is very similar to what I do with my plants for dormancy. I keep mine on an unheated porch. I close the door to the house and open all of the windows on the porch. It gets enough heat leaking out from the house to protect the plants from freezing, but keeps it cool enough to provide dormancy.

Light is for sure the more dominant factor in providing dormancy. You need to make sure that you aren't keeping the light on longer than the sun is up. But it sounds like you have the shortening of the photoperiod worked out.
 
  • #12
Thanks for the tips everyone. I'll probably take your advice seedjar and try to box it in so that the cold air circulates well. Once it goes into full dormancy, I should be able to put it in a box with only one side open towards the window. This will allow the cold air to circulate in the box and also help to insulate it from the heat from the radiator (not that the radiator is close, but it should help to keep out the heat that is getting to it). This won't allow it to get any light, but if I understand this correctly, it's only important to reduce the photoperiod to INDUCE dormancy, but light is not necessary DURING dormancy, right? If I'm completely wrong on this let me know.
 
  • #13
...just keep in mind that light is not a important factor after they go dormant....so you can get the tubes out after they go to sleep

one more observation....i did try last season a experiment with one of my dews (''california sunset''). I just place it in my room on the window sill, keep it on the dry side and it did go dormant at room temps ....and come back in spring just fine. So i'm guessing that light is the most important factor in going dormant and some plants don't care about the temp drop. I didn't try with vft yet!

I had a California Sunset go dormant at window sill as well, room temp. A couple months later it woke up. I did nothing special. For plants like VFT's, Sarracenias, and Cobra Lilys, the coldness seems to be more of a requirement. Basically, the colder the indigeonous climate, the more they need cold coupled with reduced photoperiod.

For those folks who take their temperate plants out of the put and put in baggies, in the fridge, and have no problem when the growing season begins, it would appear that once the plant is dormant, light isn't a factor. It's like pulling the battery out after the car is running. You don't need the battery until you turn off the car.. and want to start it again.
 
  • #14
Put it in the fridge until Mid February.

Mine all go in the fridge once temps get down to 40 at night regularly.
 
  • #15
Put it in the fridge until Mid February.

Mine all go in the fridge once temps get down to 40 at night regularly.

thats no good in this case, because the plant in question (first post in this thread) has been growing indoors all season..it cant go straight into the fridge because it hasnt been outdoors all season, and so has not been getting the proper decreasing temp and decreasing photoperiod dormancy cues..

Fridge is fine for outdoor plants..but not for indoor plants.

Scot
 
  • #16
thats no good in this case, because the plant in question (first post in this thread) has been growing indoors all season..it cant go straight into the fridge because it hasnt been outdoors all season, and so has not been getting the proper decreasing temp and decreasing photoperiod dormancy cues..

Fridge is fine for outdoor plants..but not for indoor plants.

Scot


Yup, good point. I stand corrected.
 
  • #17
I have a question for scottychaos for the sake of discussion. The VFTs have been next to an open window for the last month or so. This should be allowing them to acclimate temperatures slowly. I know that the temperature of the plants is probably a little higher than it would be if they were outside because of the lights, but it is gradually dropping. With this in mind, wouldn't it be possible to put them in the refrigerator once the temperature drops to about 40? I have been monitoring the temperature with a temperature probe that I also use for my bearded dragon. It has recently been fluctuation between 60ish and 75ish.

Anyway, I don't think that I will be putting them in the refrigerator because it seems like it will be easier to keep them potted, but like I said this before I'm just curious and raised this issue for the sake of discussion.
 
  • #18
I have a question for scottychaos for the sake of discussion. The VFTs have been next to an open window for the last month or so. This should be allowing them to acclimate temperatures slowly. I know that the temperature of the plants is probably a little higher than it would be if they were outside because of the lights, but it is gradually dropping. With this in mind, wouldn't it be possible to put them in the refrigerator once the temperature drops to about 40? I have been monitoring the temperature with a temperature probe that I also use for my bearded dragon. It has recently been fluctuation between 60ish and 75ish.

Anyway, I don't think that I will be putting them in the refrigerator because it seems like it will be easier to keep them potted, but like I said this before I'm just curious and raised this issue for the sake of discussion.

Im really dont think that setup is going to make the plants cool/cold enough..
unless the window is WIDE open and the room is unheated! ;)
if the room is 40 degrees inside when its 40 degrees outside..then maybe..
but I doubt the room is set up that way..

between August and November my plants get 90, 80, 70, 60, 50, 40, even 30 degrees outside before they get packed up for the winter..
you just cant get that indoors..

you say " It has recently been fluctuation between 60ish and 75ish."..has it been 60ish to 75ish outdoors at night in St. Paul the last few weeks? ;)


Scot
 
  • #19
Im really dont think that setup is going to make the plants cool/cold enough..
unless the window is WIDE open and the room is unheated! ;)
if the room is 40 degrees inside when its 40 degrees outside..then maybe..
but I doubt the room is set up that way..

between August and November my plants get 90, 80, 70, 60, 50, 40, even 30 degrees outside before they get packed up for the winter..
you just cant get that indoors..

you say " It has recently been fluctuation between 60ish and 75ish."..has it been 60ish to 75ish outdoors at night in St. Paul the last few weeks? ;)


Scot

It has been about 75 during the day and 60 at night, so it has been following the temperatures pretty well so far. Once the temperatures drop lower, 45 or so at night, I'm going to try to insulate around it to keep the cold air circulating. Your right that it probably won't follow exactly what would happen if they were outside, but I'm gonna try to give it the best I can so that they get some kind of dormancy, because this should be much better than no dormancy at all. I don't think that I will have a problem keeping the plants at least around 50 if not a little cooler on the windowsill, but I guess I'll have to just keep an eye on them over the next few months and see what happens.
 
  • #20
Great information here regarding the growing of vft . As the vft plants require very much care to be taken there. The explanation given here is quite beneficial to the beginners like me and so much helping.
 
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