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Sundew Artifical Lighting

For most sundews like capensis, aldedea, capillaris, and anglica, to use fluorescent lighting, would a 40 Watt/100 watt equivalent compact fluorescent bulb be enough if left on for a photoperiod of 10-15 hours? If not, what bulb would be needed?

And, to germinate seeds, is the 40 watt ok and how long does it need to be on?

Thanks
 
Put them all outside except for the D. adelae. That's the answer. The adelae can do fine under the 40 watt lamp, more is better though, within reason. A windowsill is good for the D. adelae, too. The later two will need a dormancy.


And the equivalent of the PC bulb doesn't matter. You CAN grow them under a fluorescent lighting, but even then I'd still tell you they need more light. I'd say absolutely no less tan 4, 40 watt lamps, and that's real fluorescent lamps. Those power compacts suck because their double helix shape leads to lots of restrike.
 
Ok so lets say a 40 watt is used, on a score from 0-100 what would it score? and then how about a 55 or 60 watt bulb? and what about the seeds, how long do they need light?
 
With zero being dead and 100 being a full sun grown plant, I'd say .... 20.

With a higher wattage, you'll get more light but you'll still have restrike. Put them outside.


The seeds (assuming it's nothing particularly special) you can germinate under your energy saver light. The heat from the lamp is the main thing that will help them to germinate. 12-16 hours I guess.
 
Two four foot two tube standard shop light fixtures is what most people use. Around 16 hour photo period in summer, 10-12 in winter. Ivan Snyder grows all his Drosera indoors under such a setup. His plants are beautiful. Just your basic plant shelf setup.

http://www.terraforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89189

Sunlight is free, use as much of it as you can and save money and natural resources.
 
Two four foot two tube standard shop light fixtures is what most people use. Around 16 hour photo period in summer, 10-12 in winter. Ivan Snyder grows all his Drosera indoors under such a setup. His plants are beautiful. Just your basic plant shelf setup.

http://www.terraforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89189

Sunlight is free, use as much of it as you can and save money and natural resources.

I am just preparring for college in case my room gets no sun but right now, my d.adelea is in sun with my VFT but my sundew is doing terrible, all the leaves are turning brown including the new ones so I'm moving it inside for now, but at least my VFT is doing amazing. :boogie:

SO whats wrong and how do I fix it? The new leaves on my D.aledea are dying back before they can fully grow.
 
I use two 40 watt(shoplight) sitting on 10 gallons, and things look fine. I really should start cutting up the mylar I bought years ago to side the tanks with.
Where do you live, Overmind? That would tell you whether you could put them outside. They would not look good here-low humidty and high wind.

Cheers,

Joe
 
I want to get 1000 watt halide light electricity is cheap and I want to grow subtropical dews,highlander neps and tuberous drosera I know they cost like $200 but after a while the cost will be forgotten. I am going to get a small greenhouse setup like 12X12 or something around those lines enough light to stop neps from the winter slurrs,grow tuberous close up to the light along with whatever else. Being in zne 7 I think heating would be minimal to keep what i said above.
 
  • #10
200 dollars? I wouldn't go cheap and buy one of those "econo-grow" systems. Lighting is something you don't skimp on, and I wouldn't go bigger than an 8 by 8 growing space for best performance.
 
  • #11
The new leaves on my D.aledea are dying back before they can fully grow.

SO whats wrong and how do I fix it?
 
  • #12
You learn some patience and wait for it to recover from being in so much sun. It could die back down to the roots and return, so if it dies don't throw it out.
 
  • #13
When I've grown sundews in the past I've used two different (and successful) setups. One had two 42 watt warm white light compact flourescents and one had two 30 watt daylight compact flourescents. Both setups yielded incredibly dewy Drosera. It's probably also important to mention that each of those setups were in 10 gallon terraria.

In fact, when it comes to most sundews, I prefer to use the compact flourescents. I get sundews with awe-inspiring reaction times. I distinctly remember growing some crazy D. capensis, D. burmanii and D. scorpiodes in these setups that would waste no time pouncing on an insect. I would place a bug on the leaf and within 30 seconds (literally) I could see the tentacles moving in towards the prey, and this included the leaf! Now this may not be surprising for species like D. burmanii and D. scorpiodes since they're known for their fast tentacle movement, but D. capensis?! It was awesome!

So yes, compact flourescents are great for sundews, especially if you want ones that will give even the fastest and strongest bugs a run for their money!
 
  • #14
Awsome, so how long will it take for my sundew to heal?
 
  • #15
Just be patient, and leave them alone. They will get better. It could take days, or weeks.
 
  • #16
Lighting is something you don't skimp on,........Put them outside......You CAN grow them under a fluorescent lighting, but even then I'd still tell you they need more light.....

guess i wont detail my cheap arse set-up than..........been working for what? 3 or 4 years now :grin: its actually pretty amazing what cheap 4 foot florecents will get yah :grin: kinda suck for large Neps and Heli's but Drosera are easy :grin:
 
  • #17
I'd still tell ya to put them outside in warm weather hehe



Never enough space for those large Nepenthes :(
 
  • #18
I dont understand what D.aledea is considered an easy plant....

I gave it full sun=death, I give it shade+sun=death, 30 watt fluorescent=death...
 
  • #19
It's because you stuck it in full sun. It's not going to snap back within three days.
 
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