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R/O Unit Problems

  • #21
Factory Step by Step Trouble-Shooting Guide

Note: this troubleshooting tek is for the spectrapure systems, not all mfg will use the same color codes or flow restrictor design. I also prefer to take my initial measurements with the prefilters installed. However, the theory should be about the same.. and remember to isolate the bladder tank when taking your measurements

spectrapure is the porche of RO units

Av



This procedure has been written with the idea in mind that a retail customer has just returned a system to
a distributor's location and is asking for an immediate replacement, or repair. By following this guide you
should have sufficient information to determine the cause of the customer’s complaint and provide the
correct solution. We tried to keep this guide as simple as possible and avoided using technical terms. We
also start the guide with a visual inspection then proceed to more-involved troubleshooting, which
requires dismantling some parts of the system.
Eliminator 90 RO (See Page 5 for the 180 GPD system)

Low Water Production
The most common complaint from your customers will be a low product water flow rate from the RO
system. There are two local causes for this condition: low water pressure and/or low water temperature.
The next common cause for low production will be a clogged sediment and/or carbon pre-filter. The least
likely cause of low production is a fault with the RO membrane. By following the step-by-step procedures
listed below you will be able to determine the cause of the customer complaint.

The Following Tools are Required for Testing:
1- Operations Manual for the RO System
1- Measuring Cup or Graduated Cylinder in milliliters
1- In-line Thermometer
1- Pressure Gauge Kit ( PGK )
1- Chlorine Test Kit ( TK-CL-25 )
1- Conductivity Tester ( TS-T61 or TS-T71 )
1- 90 GPD Flow Restrictor ( FR- 90 )
1- 180 GPD Flow Restrictor ( FR-180 )

Visual Procedure
1 - Check the Location of the Product and Wastewater Lines
The easiest means of differentiating between the Product water port and the Wastewater port of the RO
membrane housing will be to locate the injection-molded stem that protrudes from the base of the Product
water port. This stem is clearly visible in the Owner's Manual and by visually inspecting the output end of
the membrane housing. (Also, most of the newer membrane housings have a BLUE retaining ring on the
Product water port and a YELLOW retaining ring on the Wastewater port).
Note: Tubing may be disconnected by holding down the retaining ring with your thumbnail and
pulling the tube straight out with your other hand. When you re-insert the tube, be sure the end
seats firmly into the bottom of the fitting and cannot be pulled out by hand.
If the BLUE and YELLOW tubing are in the proper locations, continue to Step # 2.
If the BLUE and YELLOW tubing are reversed, you have found the problem.
Solution: Reverse the connections of the blue and yellow lines. Be sure the Flow Restrictor is in the
YELLOW tubing.
2 - Inspect the Black Tubing between the Carbon Pre-Filter and the RO Membrane Housing
If the tubing is in good condition, continue to step # 3. If the tubing is pinched or deformed in any way, you
have found the problem. Solution: Replace the tubing.
3 - Check the Flow Restrictor
Remove the yellow tubing from the RO membrane housing. Look in the end of the yellow tubing.
If the Flow Restrictor is inside the end of the yellow tubing continue to step # 4.
If the Restrictor is missing, you have found the problem.
Solution: Install a new Flow Restrictor.
4 - Inspect the Flow Restrictor
Remove the Flow Restrictor from the yellow tubing. One end of the capillary tube is bonded to a plastic
insert. Inspect the bonding material for voids between the capillary tube and the plastic insert.
If the bonding material has developed a void or the capillary tubing is missing, you have found the
problem.

Solution: Replace the Flow Restrictor.
Inspect the internal diameter of the capillary tube. The ends of the tubing should have clean cuts without
burrs at either end. The internal diameter should be open throughout the length of the tubing and you
should be able to blow a slight amount of air through the tubing.
If the tubing is deformed, if either end has burrs, if a particle or a foreign substance is blocking the internal
diameter of the tubing, or if the tubing was crimped, you have found a problem that may have
permanently damaged the membrane.
Note: Inform the customer that the membrane can be easily damaged if any of these conditions existed
for even a very short period of time.
Solution # 1: If the tubing has burrs or is crimped near the end:
Cut off the damaged end of the tubing with a sharp razor blade or Exacto blade at a 45 to 60 degree
angle, then re-install the Flow Restrictor into the yellow tubing and insert the yellow tubing into the waste
water port on the RO membrane housing.
Solution # 2: If the capillary tubing is damaged beyond repair, replace the Flow Restrictor.

Testing the System
You are now ready to start testing the system for the proper flow rates from the product and waste lines
and to determine the condition of the sediment and carbon pre-filters and the RO membrane.
1 - Prepare System for Testing
Insert the "tee" of the Pressure Gauge Kit between the "OUT" of the carbon filter and the "IN" of the RO
membrane housing. (If an Auto Shut-Off Valve has been installed on the unit, insert the pressure gauge
kit between the "OUT " of the ASO and the "IN" of the RO membrane).
Attach the input line of the system to a water source that has the In-line Thermometer installed.
Slowly turn on the water until the water supply valve is on full (< 80PSI).
Allow the air to bleed from the system for a few moments.
Record the water temperature. (__________)
Record the water pressure reading on the pressure gauge. (__________)
This would also be a good time to test for chlorine leakage through the carbon pre-filter. Use the Chlorine
Test Kit, which is accurate to < 0.2 PPM. If "any" level of chlorine is present in the wastewater stream the
RO membrane could have been damaged. The carbon pre-filter will need to be replaced after testing is
complete and possibly the RO membrane. (This test assumes that you have a chlorinated water source).
Turn off the water. Allow the pressure to bleed off. Unscrew the sediment and carbon pre-filter housings
and remove both filters. Re-install the empty housings.
Note: All of the remaining tests will be performed without the pre-filters installed!!
2 - Testing the Condition of the Pre-Filters (Calculating the % of Pressure Drop)
Slowly turn-on the water until the water supply valve is on full (< 80PSI).
Allow the air to bleed from the system for a few moments. Record the water pressure reading on the
pressure gauge. (__________)
Compare the water pressure before and after removal of the prefilters.
Divide the pressure reading after the filters were removed by the pressure reading before they were
removed. Subtract 1 from the result then multiply by 100. [ ( ( Pafter / Pbefore ) - 1 ) X 100 ] This is
the percentage of pressure drop across the pre-filters. If the pressure reduction is greater than 15%, both
of the pre-filters should be replaced, after all testing is completed.
(This would be a good opportunity to educate the customer on the benefits of having the Pressure Gauge
Kit (# PGK) permanently installed on their RO system. If it is suspected that the customer has low
pressure, a Pressure Gauge Kit plus a Booster Pump (# BPHF-MO-115) will be required for the proper
operation of the system).

3 - Test the Membrane Flow Rate
We are now ready to check the product and wastewater flow rate from the RO membrane. After
completing the pre-filter tests, the tap water should still be turned "on" and the pre-filters removed
from the system.
If you are confident that the existing Flow Restrictor is in good condition and has passed your prior
inspection and testing, you may continue to the next test. If the condition of the Flow Restrictor is suspect,
we would recommend removing the customer's Flow Restrictor and installing your test restrictor that was
supplied for this test.
With the water on full (< 80 PSI) measure the water volume from both the waste and product lines
individually for one minute each.
Measure and record the Milliliters per Minute from the Product line. (__________)
Measure and record the Milliliters per Minute from the Wastewater line. (__________)
At this point in our testing we will not concern ourselves with the Wastewater volume. You may use the
existing restrictor if the Wastewater flow is in a range between 300 milliliters per minute at 40PSI @ 50F
and 950 milliliters per minute at 60PSI @ 77F.
For the purposes of this test, we would expect that most systems will be used under average conditions
at approximately 50 PSI @ 60 F. If your conditions are close to this assumed average condition, we
would recommend using an FR-90 Flow Restrictor cut to approximately 8 inches total length for this test.
Note: If the Wastewater volume is less than 4 times the Product water volume (using the customer’s
original Flow Restrictor), the membrane may have been damaged due to insufficient Wastewater flushing
effect caused by improper adjustment of the Flow Restrictor. Inform the customer that operating the
system at less than a 4 to 1 ratio will cause premature fouling of the membrane and a loss of water
production. This condition will also void any warranty on the RO membrane. (Before recommending a
membrane replacement, complete the test procedure).

4 - Proceed to the "Membrane Output Calculation Guide" in the Owner's Manual
The result of your calculations will show the "Expected" GPD production rate from the system after taking
into account the water temperature and water pressure variations.
Unfortunately, most customers will not be aware of the effects that water pressure and temperature have
on RO membranes. It may be necessary to explain the calculations to the customer at this time. If the
"expected" GPD production rate is within 15% of the actual flow rate, the membrane is considered to be in
"good" condition.
This completes our inspection of the system, pre-filter diagnostics and the "expected" flow rate
calculations.
If the customer's questions relate to product water purity, continue to the following section.
Water Purity
1- Tools Required for Testing
Conductivity Tester, TS-T61 or TS-T71

Before proceeding with the following test procedure please follow all of the previous test procedures and
verify that the water pressure is adequate. Also confirm that the conductivity tester is calibrated correctly
and is in good working order. (See the owner's manual for the tester.)
Allow the system to operate for 10 to 20 minutes without interruption and verify that the pressure is
greater than 40 PSI. Direct the product and wastewater streams to a drain.
Most TDS testers include a reservoir cap for retaining the water that is to be tested. Be sure the reservoir
is clean by rinsing it thoroughly at least three times with the product water as it drips directly from the
product water line, before attempting to take the conductivity reading. After filling and discarding the water
three times record the reading. (__________)
Turn on a tap water faucet and let it run for a minimum of 30 seconds. Follow the step above and record
the conductivity reading. (__________)

2 - Calculate the Percentage of Rejection
Subtract the RO product water conductivity (X) from the tap water conductivity (Y). Divide the result by the
tap water conductivity (X) then multiply by 100. This is the % of rejection from the RO membrane.
[ ( (X - Y) / X ) x 100 ]
Under normal water conditions and at 60 PSI water pressure, the expected rejection rate from a new RO
membrane should be greater than 97%, although there are several other factors that may affect the TDS
level of the product water.
For example, if soda lime softening (Calcium Hydroxide) is used in the municipal water supply to raise the
PH, a high percentage of OH will pass through the membrane and cause the conductivity to be higher
than normal in the product water.
There are many factors that will affect the operation and rejection characteristics of an RO system. A few
among many are: hydrogen sulfide, iron, bacteria, excess hardness, very low or high PH, ammonia,
tannins etc. If you are still in doubt after completing all of the test procedures please call the SpectraPure
Technical Support Line at 1-800-xxx-xxxx, Ext x.

Eliminator 180 RO
The Eliminator 180 GPD System incorporates two 90 GPD RO membranes. All of the previous steps
used for evaluating the 90 GPD systems are valid in this procedure except for the items listed below. You
will be testing the product water rate for each of the RO membranes independently in order to determine
their condition. The membranes are in series with the wastewater from the first membrane feeding the
input of the second membrane. You will need to remove the product lines from each membrane housing
and test the individual conductivities in accordance with the Water Purity paragraph above.
1 - Testing Conductivity for 180 GPD System
After the system has been operating for 10 minutes or more, remove the blue product lines from each
membrane at the "tee".
Follow the instructions under the Water Purity paragraph above.
Record the numbers and calculate the results. If either membrane has a rejection rate of less than 94%,
we would recommend replacement of the membrane.
Reconnect the product lines.
2 - Test the Membrane Flow Rate
After the system has been operating for 10 minutes or more, remove the blue product lines from each
membrane housing.
Follow the instructions under “3 - Test the Membrane Flow Rate” above and measure the product rate
from each membrane independently.
Each of the membranes should be within 15% of the "Expected" GPD flow rate. If either membrane were
below the expected production rate, we would recommend replacing that membrane.
Technical Support
SpectraPure Inc. Latest Rev: 2003-01-09
 
  • #22
Just opened the final prefilter...... is there supposed to be plastic shrink wrap over the cartridge? Because there is.. and nowhere in the instructions does it even say that you're supposed to open the prefilters and remove plastic wrap...

Edit: Pics.. sorry the last one is blurry.

RO1.jpg


RO2.jpg


ro3.jpg


roflowrestrictor.jpg
 
  • #23
no, plastic shrink wrap is supposed to be off! hahahhahaaa it's around everything? even the rubber gasket at the top? Hmm,, how was water flowing? and was enough chlorine removed before hitting the membrane or did the chlorine kill the membrane? all questions to be answered. But first, I'd say it sounds like packaging that has to be removed, All my prefilters come with that stuff that needs to come off.
 
  • #24
I don't think my water has any chlorine in it?

There were small holes in the plastic wrap, I guess that's how the water got through...

I'm going to be royally pissed if I need a new membrane too.

NOWHERE in the instructions does it say that there's plastic wrap on the prefilters it says that they are already installed and ready and nothing further is required with them.. URGH!!!

In fact.. here are the instructions they gave me.. http://www.aquasafecanada.com/Install Instructions.htm
 
  • #25
Well, if some water was getting through, but not enough- i would think that'd cause more of a low production than a build up.. maybe a build up over time with not enough water running by to rinse the membrane.


Anyway, if you look at this old post of mine, you'll see pictures. The first pictures show my old membranes.. But the last one, you can see the new filters still in the plastic. That comes off before installation ;-) So hopefully seeing some filters will confirm for you what they're supposed to look like.

http://www.terraforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=766352&postcount=13


If you know where the flow restrictor is, i'd remove it and let it flush for 3-5 mins once you get the plastic off to make sure everything gets flushed(mainly that membrane!)

Let us know how it works after :D

Oh, and i'd dump the first 2 tanks again!
 
  • #26
I've already done what you've recommended.. except I flushed for 15 minutes.. it was strange how it flushed this time.. It seemed that the water was propelled through the waste line with MUCH more pressure.. and it came in bursts. The TDS I am getting is still around 120 at this time.
 
  • #27
the pressure is good!!!! the busts is the air flushing from the system (also good ;-) )
 
  • #28
Yay!

I accidentally left it flushing for like... 45 minutes. Oops.. but at least now most of the air has been ejected from the system. I did empty out the filter canisters when I took off the plastic.

There's still bad news though.. the TDS is still 120. :/

Edit: Just drained the tank and checked again, the TDS is down to 51.
 
  • #29
woohoo! I suspect it will take some time to come down. But half since the last check is pretty good :)


And stop draining the tank! Let it fill all the way up (and shut off), then completely drain it... the full, then drain... no more "checks" between grrrrrrrr ( hehe )
 
  • #30
omg, elements still in their plastic wrap sheesh

Chrono, you will have to readjust the flow restrictor once everything is flowing right, go for 3:1 to 4:1

good deal you two... nice

Av
 
  • #31
How do I readjust the flow restricter?

Edit: The TDS is down to 41.
 
  • #32
As I know them flow restricter are set... only allowing so much water to flow. Although, if you have one that has a shut off style valve, then you need to dissconnect the production line, and the brine line and adjust that valve to waste 3-4 times as much water as it produces. (so you make 1 cup of water per 3-4 cups down the drain) If it is just something you install in the line and it looks like a flow through design, then it is set and there is no adjusting.

....you filled the tank already? yah, I didn't think so!!!! lol



edit: instructions say:

Putting pressure on the membrane:

THE FLOW RESTRICTOR acts to put back pressure on the membrane...there is no "closed" position and it nevers stops the flow of discharge water. It is either restricting the flow or open.

So just turn it to the restricting setting and that's it.
 
  • #33
Uh.. is the flow restricter the thing that has 4 tubes coming out of it? Because.. I don't remember that thing having any sort of knob or anything on it... There's the knob that I use to flush it.. and there's that other knob thing that I used to replace a missing part. (Yeah there were like 2 parts missing..)

And no I didn't fill the tank twice, I meant everything else. :p But I've been draining what it's had over and over again.. but I've been testing it as well.

It's still at 42. :/ The flow STARTS at 52.. then it goes to 42.. dunno how.. it just does.
 
  • #34
no, the 4 tube thing is the ASO (automatic shut off) the flow restrictor goes in the brine line... your instructions show this: http://www.aquasafecanada.com/flow restrictor.jpg

was that part missing and you used a 90 shut off? if so (get them to send the right thing) and adjust the flow as described above.
 
  • #35
That thing is the thing that I used as a spare part.. but there is a brass part on the waste line and that's the knob I use to flush the unit.. I always keep it closed except when I flush the system. I don't think any water gets through when it's open. I had earlier assumed that the part that I used as a spare was supposed to replace the brass part but the connectors are different.. on the brass one there are quick connects on each side. On the makeshift spare part, there's a quick connect on one side and then thread on the other. I don't really understand it as I don't think it was directly mentioned in the instructions....

They also won't send me the right thing, but they told me to just buy a new one and they'll reimburse me.. which they said when I told them about the other spare part. It was a cheap part so I didn't worry about the reimbursement.
 
  • #36
uhh... i'm going to IM you LOL This is WRONG :p
 
  • #37
I hope you get it worked out.
that spare part isn't a spare part. it's needed for your filter to work properly.
have you looked at any of the online diagrams to see where everything is and the function of each part?
you and your plants will love it once you get it working.
peace,
Zero
 
  • #38
aqua safe has gone to an adjustable flow restrictor... IIRC their instructions tell you to tighten it till it is a trickle, then open it up until a flow is evident... then adjust till you get the brine rate where you want it

ive never seen one, but it sounds like it is nothing more then an AFC (adjustable flow control) prob a needle valve

but you never want to totally restrict your brine output

Chrono, the squarish thing with the four lines... as Andrew said that is your ASO, if you look at it carefully you will see that 2 of the 4 ports are marked "in and out" and the other two ports are unmarked... it is critical that you get these right, look at my schematic for proper orientation

schematic thread
 
  • #39
a lot of sales hype but here is the info from their auction pages, personally I think it is asking a lot of someone who doesn't have any experience in this area



AQUA-SAFE EXCLUSIVE DESIGNED VARIABLE FLOW RESISTOR

For years we have been frustrated with the inability to regulate any change in the pressure within the RO system while 95% of the issues arise from PSI or a combo of PSI/TDS.

The world has changed. Water conservation is in and waste is out. Plus, water in some parts of North America is very expensive. A static flow resistor flow resistor does not allow you to fine tune the system to the water and condition in your home.

This type of resistor totally, ignores the TDS of the feedwater, the temperature (viscosity) of the feedwater, and the fact the resistance of the RO membrane changes as it wears out. The number one question I get is "do we have to waste this much water to make pure drinking water?"

The membrane makers would love to see us throw away 9 gallons for every 1 good gallon (sales hype LOL....Av). That way the membrane would last forever. The current generally accepted ratio is 3 or 4 to 1. Our new design can adjust the discharge for maximum water conservation and to deliver more pressure to the membrane if needed.

The variable is simple. Unscrew the stem to the max and the restrictor is wide open in the "flush" position. Then very slowly tighten it until you get a drip....then a tiny bit more and then you will have a small flow (this must be a typo, you would begin to slowly open the valve back up till a small flow is noticed.....Av) That probably is you point of maximum effectiveness in a low pressure situation. Time how long it takes to make a quart of good water. Then see how much waste water is generated. Play with it until the ratio is 3:1 and you are a "Green". There are 9 turns of the screw so 4 1/2 is a 50% restriction which is about what you want. (Chrono, from that last statement I think it is safe to assume that 4 1/2 turns would be a pretty good place to put it for the time being, from your previous comments I assume you are not allowing any waste water which will sooner or later damage the membrane)

As the years go by, the membrane will wear our and you will need to tighten it a bit more. When you get to 1 gallon of good to 2 gallons of bad, then it is time to throw the membrane out.

Under no circumstances totally shut of the flow of discharge water.
...


I bet in a year the adjustable flow restrictor will be history or be redesigned in such a way as to be "fool proof", limiting the total amount of restriction possible, JMHO
 
  • #40
I really wish I had known all this sooner... I don't recall reading all that in the instructions. Although they were confusing and we stopped using them altogether after a while. I knew next to nothing about RO when I got it. Also, it turns out the DI wasn't completely used up... only half. The current TDS reading is still between 40 and 50. It should be lower by now, right?

Edit: I switched the variable flow resistor back to the waste line and I put it about half way between opened and closed. I was going to go by the 9 turn thing but it depends on how much one turn is for each person.. I turn it from opened to close in 7-8 turns so I put it at about 3 1/2 turns. Now it is sending out short bursts of water every second. I'm assuming that's how it's supposed to be? It's kind of annoying because it's audible.
 
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