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pappydew

I hate bugs. Carnivorous plants get me.
I should have learned to not mess with success...right now a lot of my plants seem to be taking a turn for the worse.

A couple weeks ago I decided to make room for a new order by splitting up all the plants I had in my 15g and using the 20 long as well.

I ordered several potted plants from a supplier (who will not be named) and they arrived in decent condition. Some are starting to transition well, others not so much.

Here are specifics on setups:

15 gallon:
2x24w T5HO
1x26w CFL, clamp light
~80F during day, 50-60% humidity

*D. scorpiodes
*D. pygmaea
*D. pygmaea 'green' (gemmae)
*D. pulchella
*D. roseana
*D. nitidula ssp. nitidula
*D. palacea ssp. palacea
*D 'Lake Badgerup'
*P. moctezumae
*P. primuflora
*3 Pings that need better IDing
*D. adelae daughter plants from the main plant, replanted in tupperware

20 gallon:
2x18w T5NO
2x26w CFL, clamp lights
~80F during day, 50-60% humidity

*D. capensis 'typical'
*D. capensis 'alba'
*D. capensis 'red'
*D. venusta
*D. aliciae
*D. spatulata 'pink'
*D. binata 't form'
*D. adelae
*D. capillaris 'long arm'
*D sp. Pretty Rosette
*D. nidiformis
*D. madagascarensis
*D. affinis
*N. ventricosa 'red'
*A small N. x Miranda (will be moved out soon)

All plants sitting in a tray of bottled RO water minus the Neps

Now, for the specific questions...

1) My lighting seems random, at best. What should I actually be using?

In addition to what is being used I also have a 30" 2x17w T8 fixture, one of the twin-tube "stock" aquarium fixtures.

2) I realized I have quite a bit of open shelf space in my room to use as a grow shelf. I could easily rig up some clamp lights (it is a four tiered shelf) but which plants can realistically be grown?

The ambient temps stay in the low 70's for most of the year unless it is warmer outside. I was able to grow the N. x Miranda on this shelf last year if that helps...

3) I have mold and/or fungus in several pots. I don't think it is a coincidence that the majority of those that do have the one type are from the supplier. The other type is from in the D. pygmaea pot. Pics are attached. Should I plan on just repotting or is there a way to salvage the current media?

4) The water sitting in the trays has got a cloudy, almost oily appearance. This has never happened to me and I have been using this same water source for a year now. It appeared after getting the new plants.

A few random observations of some plants as well...

-The capensis 'typical' just started to lose dew since moving it into the 20L. As you can see from the pics it is under the T5NO. My first thought is that it does not like the heat being produced...

-The capensis 'alba' is growing a lot shorter leaves than in the past. Ideas as to why?

-The capensis 'red' has new growth that is not red. Is that normal?

-Two of the more mature D. scorpiodes plants have stopped opening up their new leaves, almost as if they are going dormant, however no "fuzz" has appeared. Another mature plant and the new one I got are growing just fine though.

-I can only seem to get one to two D. pulchella plants to grow at one time, then they die off/go dormant and a new plant emerges.

-The 'Lake Badgerup' is growing very well, however only a few leaves show any signs of dew.

-The adelae, binata, aliciae, spatulata, and all the pings look as healthy and vibrant as can be!

I know this is a lot of info to throw out there at one time, however I really could use some advice on how to best move forward and a) salvage what I can and b) provide the best future growing conditions for these plants.

Pics of the overall setups and the mold/fungus and the water are attached. I do not have the time to get ones of the specific plants I am having problems with but I can later.

Thanks for any and all help, it is appreciated in advance!!!
 
What is the source for water you are using? try to get a fungicide to take care of that but be carefull some may hurt the smaller dews. Any time you move things or change things it could take a few weeks just to aclimate and go back to normal growth.
 
It's drinking water, says purified by RO filtration. I've used it for a while now and never gotten any of this crud in the trays.

What are the safest fungicides to use on dews?
 
Sulfur based fungicides are the safest as far as I know.
 
Are current lighting conditions adequate or should I change those? I can never grasp lighting with CPs, seems so varied...

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:03 PM ----------

Also, still not sure what is "wrong" with the scorpiodes, pulchella, and 'Lake Badgerup'...their conditions have not changed.
 
Are current lighting conditions adequate or should I change those? I can never grasp lighting with CPs, seems so varied...

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:03 PM ----------

Also, still not sure what is "wrong" with the scorpiodes, pulchella, and 'Lake Badgerup'...their conditions have not changed.

The T5 HO lights are excellent for CPs....should be more than enough IMO. Mold issues are caused by a lack of air exchange.

As far as the pygmies go....I personally have issues keeping pygmies alive, so you may be better served by someone who is better at growing them.
 
I rearranged a few things...capensis-es and binata were moved to the middle row and the lower growing rosette species )aliciae, spatulata, etc.) are now more directly under the T5.

I totally forgot that part of the pygmy problem may be that one tube on the T5HO fixture is now burnt out...will be replacing that asap!
 
I've never had luck with peat in tanks.. I always use pure live LFS. A LOT less problems with it.
 
This is the first time I've run into this problem and most of my established pots have enough other top dressings that it hasn't become a problem.

Any ideas for small clips fans? I would use a computed fan but do not want to mess with any wiring.
 
  • #10
The mold and fungus is common on pots that have not had their peat "washed" before use. This often kills my plants.
As for the dews, i've found that the alba form of capensis likes it cooler and will produce smaller leaves in bright light - i grow it like adelae, or prolifera. Red capensis are more prone to shock, but the lack of dew on your typical seems distressing. It's probably not the temperature or humidity, but the lights. I don't know what kind of outage your T5s have, but i get the feeling that they aren't as powerful as T8s. I've stuck with the same lights for almost 7 years now; never known anything outside of T8s (i think that's what they are) and a 400 watt metal halide.
I recommend getting new soil for any concerning plants, definitely for the new ones. Clean your trays. Don't use any of the old soil unless it's been baked. Recommend washing the trays in isopropyl; not required, but it's pretty much guaranteed. If you want, use sphagnum as a medium. It keeps the mold under control for most sensitive drosera.
Fungus takes effort to grow rampantly. It usually won't spread, but check all pots; it grows from the bottom up, and the effects usually are gradual.
The mold might be killing the roots; this could explain why the symptoms of your plants are so similar to lack of water and root rot.
Jus mah two cents. Nice set up, brah!
 
  • #11
Few notes as I have gone through the transition to tanks and found such problems myself:

1) The media. That is a critical component. Did this media (exact brand and ingredients) in the previous setup did not cause any similar problems? Bad quality peat with nutrient additives can cause issues. Also in that pic of the media, the media looks crumbly. Thats not good for CPs. Its fine if it only occurs once every week or so when the pots dry out.

2) The black water with a almost film of slime. I get that in my two tanks. I have trays at bottom. I never took pics of it, but probably should sometime. I clean them once every 4-5 months. The water is exactly like that. BLACK peaty water with slime algae growing in it. Also note that I see it in a tank that has no PEAT based media. Sphagnum/bark media also produces the tannins that causes the colour.

With regards to these two factors....next time..check if the media pots have a distinct stinky smell. Fresh peat has a very distinctive (IMO fantastic smell). As time passes, the smell goes away, but if the media compacts, it gives a stinky rotting smell. Also..when in good condition with adequate air circulation, the water should be clear light brown that is the sign of healthy media.

Biggest concern here is tank. Having grown sundews and VFTs in a tank and then outside in a tray under light, I must say, they do waaay better grown open than in a tank. Many sundews come from dry areas of our planet and do not like the stale air in tanks. However, if u still want to try this: Arrange your pots closer so that you have an empty area on the tray. Make 4 stilts and place a computer fan facing downwards into the tray such that the air circulates between the pots. It will definitely take care of a lot of your fungi/algae problems. I think this should be your first priority after ensuring media and water quality.
 
  • #12
Thanks for the help so far everyone!

The media that looks "crumbly" is from the supplier. I will definitely repot those plants using my own media which has yet to fail except for whatever reason in the pygmaea pot. My fault for assuming it would work...

I would definitely grow these guys outside, however as I learned last summer when I tried a temperate mini-bog, there is absolutely no place around my house that gets enough sunlight for a decent enough time to try growing cp's outside. Not to mention trying to transition them while in the very hottest time of the summer probably would not end well. If that were not the case I would already have several Sarr's in my collection ;)

I will try to get a fan in there somehow as soon as possible though.

---------- Post added at 03:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:41 AM ----------

Oops, forgot to mention I probably will still use a fungicide on the pygmaea pot. They are just too little to try to transfer out and repot.

Also, I am seriously thinking about using that extra shelf space I have for some CP's that would be able to grow in a room setting. Typically 70-80F during the day, cooler at night, and humidity hovering around 50%.
 
  • #13
I recently added a CPU fan to my terrarium and have noticed quite an increase in my plants growth. I have always used them for my orchids but decided to try it with my CP's too and glad I did.

If you want to look into using a CPU fan send me a PM and I can step you though it with pictures if needed. It's really very simple.
 
  • #14
Beware you drinking water may also have added minerals, but those usually aren't a problem. But, if you dont some live growing sphagnum, then they will be in the future.
 
  • #15
Well, first good sign...after moving the typical back a row in the tray the newer leaves are showing some dew. Might take a bit more rearranging once everything settles in to find the right combo.

I was going to repot everything today but I want nothing to do with mixing up media outside in this weather...supposed to get better as the week goes on so it will get done soon!

I recently added a CPU fan to my terrarium and have noticed quite an increase in my plants growth. I have always used them for my orchids but decided to try it with my CP's too and glad I did.

If you want to look into using a CPU fan send me a PM and I can step you though it with pictures if needed. It's really very simple.

That would be excellent. I am a pretty visual learner so pics would be much appreciated!

Beware you drinking water may also have added minerals, but those usually aren't a problem. But, if you dont some live growing sphagnum, then they will be in the future.

No mention of any added minerals on the labeling but I haven't tested TDS either so I can't be sure they are none either.

As for live sphagnum, I will consider it in the future.
 
  • #16
Affected plants were repotted. A definite earthy smell with my mix :bigthumpup:
 
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