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How to control algae?

Last Friday I added some plants to my 10 gallon tank. I have now 30 watts with CO2 and a bunch of plants. Well today I noticed some algae starting to grow on the front glass. I added no fertilizers yet. I have the following plants:

2 Anubias Nana (growing new leaves already)
7 Rotala Magenta (looks like it's dying already)
Java Fern (on a big piece of driftwood)
3 Pigmy Chain Sword
15 Corkscrew Val (starting to send runners already)

Since I figured I didn't have enough plants I went out and bought some more jungle vals and some other kind of bunched plant. I'm using flourite for the substrate and the lights are on for about 12 hours a day. I plan on getting some oto cats, cherry shrimp, and malaysian trumpt snails soon but I thought having all these plants would prevent the algae. I'm also running out of room to plant the plants so any advice would be good for both the algae and the rotala. I have not done any water changes yet since I started the tank on the 22nd of January. I also added some blackwater extract if that has any usfulness since I am putting the neons in. Thanks for anything you can give.
 
Get some Otocyclus Cats and/or Plecostomus, Mollies... They love algae.
 
Why aren't you fertilizing? Why don't you have a filter? What are your co2 levels?

R. magenta is a very demanding plant.
 
I do have a filter going I'm not sure why you would think that I don't. For co2 I've been using that hagen system that you have. I have not used any fertilizer yet because I've been trying this cycle system out I found.

http://www.aquahobby.com/articles/e_silent_cycling.php

I also have to order the other fertilizers too. Right now I have Seachem Flourish and Flourish Potassium. I'm also trying to find a fertilizer schedule.
 
Because I remember you saying you didn't have one :)

I switched from hagen to pressuirzed. Hagen wasn't good enough once I started upgrading and i'm too lazy to keep changing the yeast mixture :)

Here is the schedule I used. Just don't dose phosphate and iron/traces on the same day.

For Hightlight, 3wpg or more, C02 enriched tank's that are moderatly to heavy planted.

If you need to, suppliment with Flourish Excel, increase C02-Let it run 24/7 for a few days, give the tank good aeration after light's out, to much C02 is okay, it's the lack of 02 that is deadly, that happens when to much C02 is being pumped into the tank after lights off and it removes 02, so a simple lift of the spray bar or lily pipe to break the surface will remedy that.
Personally, I have found that using a glass diffusor is much more efficient than reactor's, therefore eliminating the need for excel.

Dosing Dry, Use measuring spoon's found at most department store's in the utensile section, scoop appropriate amount and toss in the tank, simple as that!
I use to keep an old travel mug under the tank, and keep fert's in large spice bottles, scoop appropriate amount into cup, dip in tank, stir and serve.
Tsp=Teaspoon

Tank's (1)
20~40gal
50%H20 change-weekly
+/-1/4Tsp-KN03 3x a week
+/-1/16+Tsp-KH2P04 3x aweek
+/-1/16+Tsp K2S04 3x a week
+/-5ml Trace 3x a week
+/-1-2ml Fe/Iron 3x a week

"If dosing a 10gal highlight C02 enriched tank, divide above regime x2"

Tank's (2)
40~60gal
50%H20 change-weekly
+/-1/2Tsp KN03 3x a week
+/-1/8Tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/-1/8Tsp K2S04 3x a week
+/-10ml Trace 3x a week
+/-2-4ml Fe/Iron 3x a week


Tank's (3)
For a 60~80gal
50%H20 change-weekly
+/-3/4Tsp KN03 3x a week
+/-3/16Tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/-1/4Tsp K2S04 3x a week
+/-15ml Trace 3x a week
+/-4-8ml Fe/Iron 3x a week
Etcetera.

Do the math for other tank sizes, Ex: if you have a 125gal use Tank's (3) x2 +/-

Note: Iron/Fe is a luxury, not a necessity, you will have enough Iron/Fe in your trace mix to satisfy the need's required, if the tank in question is new, immature, don't dose extra Iron/Fe, wait until the tank is balanced and mature, Then dose Fe as above

Algae Issue's?
Increase C02, even if you have to use Flourish Excel, and decrease the light a bit, raise it up off the tank, burn it less hour's etc.
Pick, clean, prune, preen, all plant's, manually remove as much algae as you can, good condition's will slow it's growth, at most, stop the growth.
you will need to remove the remaining algae by hand...Manually!!..Vacuum, PaperTowels for inside glass when water is drained.

Make sure you're C02 is at optimal condition's.

Fish gasping? 02 Issue's?
Increase surface movement for night time/lights out, decrease for opposite, if having 02 issue's a little surface movement is good.

Trace Element and Iron, either Retail Premixed, such as Flourish, TMG, etc or Plantex CSM,CSM+B,CSM+B w/Extra Iron & Fe/Iron Chelate 10%- mix 1Tbsp per 250ml/ one capful=5ml
Aquarium Plants, Aquatic Plants, Planted Aquariums, and Aquarium Plant Fertilizer has all of these...Usually!

If you choose to dose Plantex dry here is a formula.. Thanks jgc
Originally Posted by jgc
Another conversion. In a 1 tablespoon to 250ml, 20 ml = 1/4 teaspoon of fert. (there are 12 - 1/4 teaspoons disolved. 250ml/12=20.83ml


Credits go to Wö£fëñxXx for this fantastic regime.
Here's the link. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/water-parameters/21944-_dosing-regimes_.html
 
I have Flourish and Flourish Potassium. I'm getting Flourish Excel, Trace, Nitrogen, and Iron. Is there any I shouldn't get or something I'm missing? They all say they have no phosphate so I dunno. That info you put up there is like reading another language to me. What would your schedule be using the Flourish brands?
 
I found this at Dr. Foster and Smiths website. I'm guessing you have more experience then me on this so what do you think?

Day 1

Flourish
Flourish Excel
Flourish Iron
Flourish Phosphorous
Flourish Nitrogen

Day 2

Flourish Trace
Flourish Excel
Flourish Iron

Day 3

Flourish Potassium
Flourish Excel
Flourish Iron

Day 4

Flourish Trace
Flourish Excel
Flourish Iron
Flourish Phosphorous
Flourish Nitrogen

Day 5

Flourish Potassium
Flourish Excel
Flourish Iron

Day 6

Flourish
Flourish Excel
Flourish Iron

Day 7

(5% Water Change)
Prime
Alkaline Buffer
Acid Buffer
Equilibrium
 
50%, not 5%.

Equilibrium is just for reconstituting RO water. You don't need the buffers unless something is wrong with your water. Acid buffer is phosphate-based and will screw with your co2 readings unless you use a drop checker. It can also make phosphate-induces algae growth worse in some scenarios. Alkaline buffer is just baking soda. The equilibrium is just calcium and magensium.

That chart looks fine but if you absolutely must add phosphate and iron on the same day, do one in the morning and one in the evening.

A lot of people use stump remover for nitrate, epsoms salt and ice melter for GH, fleet enema for phosphate, etc.

To be honest you probably do NOT need to buffer you're water at all, just add a little prime if it's got chlorine in it. You really need to test your water (let it sit for 24 hours first) before you start screwing with it.
 
Sunday:
Waterchange
± 1/8 teaspoon nitrate (Grants stump remover)
± 1/32 teaspoon phosphate (fleet enema)
± 1/32 teaspoon potassium (no-salt, salt substitute)

Monday:
2.5 mL trace (Flourish, etc.)
1 mL iron (Flourish Iron) **optional**

Tuesday:
± 1/8 teaspoon nitrate (Grants stump remover)
± 1/32 teaspoon phosphate (fleet enema)
± 1/32 teaspoon potassium (no-salt, salt substitute)

Wednesday:
2.5 mL trace (Flourish, etc.)
1 mL iron (Flourish Iron) **optional**

Thursday:
± 1/8 teaspoon nitrate (Grants stump remover)
± 1/32 teaspoon phosphate (fleet enema)
± 1/32 teaspoon potassium (no-salt, salt substitute)

Friday:
2.5 mL trace (Flourish, etc.)
1 mL iron (Flourish Iron) **optional**

Saturday:
Tank day off - no ferts

edit: If you are using Fleet enema, change 1/32 teaspoon Phosphate to 1/2 mL Fleet


This is for a 10 gallon high light co2 enriched plant-filled aquarium. This is for an aquarium filled with stem plants and HC and downoi and such. You need more stem plants and get rid of the plants such as the vals. They will grow too big and get ugly. Think about didiplis diandra or Ammania sp. "bonsai".
 
  • #10
Yea the day 7 stuff got added in but I don't plan on using any of that stuff and I know to change more then 5%. So it all looks good to make the order and get the stuff here. Thanks for the help, you're like a genuis or something.
 
  • #11
No problem.

Genius? Haha I wish. I gave up planted aquaria when my co2 regulator quit for 3 days while I was out of town and when I got home it was so bad I gave up lol.
 
  • #12
So this kinda got turned into a fertilizer topic but the algae is still growing. By fertilizing will that help control it? I have my ferts coming so when they get here I'll start that. Maybe if I add more plants? I'm adding the oto cats and cherry shrimp on Friday but I doubt they will take care of all it and prevent it.
 
  • #13
Hi, perhaps I could help. I've been into planted tanks for about two years now, I have 4 planted tanks now (55, 30, 10 and 5 gallons), and I am happy with my results.

First off, I think your setup is on the right track. You have sufficient lighting, a good substrate, and you chose appropriate plants for a low-light tank (except the Rotala magenta, that is definitely a high-light plant). Adding the CO2 via the Hagen is great also, just be sure to keep up with the changes of the yeast and sugar solution. I also like how you've cammed your tank with plants.

Please answer for me the following:

1. How bad is your algae problem? You've only described it as being on the glass...is it covering your plants, coating the decorations, etc.? What does the algae look like? Is it just some green spots on the glass, or thick hairy stuff, or something else? Keep in mind that no planted tank is free of algae completely, the best you can do is manage it.

2. What kind of lighting do have? And are your lights on a timer?

Also, I don't think adding a bunch of fertilizers is going to help much. I think it would be best if you simply added only CO2...but that's it, no Fluorish Excel, no blackwater extract, etc. At the most I would recommend a dose of Fluorish once a week, but that's it for ferts. Your fish (via the food you feed) should provide plenty of nutrients. Your setup (a low-light tank) simply does not call for an elaborate fertilizing regiment. The most it's going to do is provide plenty of iron and phosphorous for growing algae, as the plants won't use as much as you add.

Let me know your answers, I'll check back soon.
 
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