I can only write about what works for me in my particular conditions in the Pacific Northwest, results may vary for someone else. They are outside in full direct sun 8-10 hours a day throughout the growing season, from about April/May to October/November depending on outside temps. Outside they are exposed to the elements including rain, wind, and temps in the 90s (occasionally 100) at the height of summer and nighttime temps as low as just above freezing in fall. They seem to tolerate light frosts quite well in my experience. After one or two light frosts, I bring them into an unheated attached garage in front of a south-facing window with a T12 shop light above them and they remain there until weather/temps permit in spring. Garage temps over winter generally range from low 40s at night to mid 50s during the day, with occasional night temps in the upper 30s and day temps as high as the low 60s.
These conditions seem to work well for drosos here, but may not in another location. As is true with any CP, there are so many variables to take into consideration based on where you live and whether you grow them outside, inside the house, or in a greenhouse; Pot size, soil content, humidity, sunlight vs. artificial light (8 hours of direct sun in my area may have more or less intensity in another part of the country), temperature range, how much food they get, pot type, etc. I like to use terra cotta pots for my drosos because of their evaporative effect, keeping the soil cooler and helping the pot dry out quicker than plastic pots since we tend to get more rain in the growing season than say Southern California. Drosos grow deep roots so I like to use large tall pots, but I have seen them growing well in 6" and 8" pots although the roots can grow out the bottom of the pot.
Soil: I use an airy mix of perlite, pumice, sand, and a little bit of peat. No exact formula, I just mix everything, add water, grab a handful and squeeze and if it falls apart easily when I open my hand I call it good. I need the pots to drain quickly since they get rained on a lot in spring. Since I use large 10" and 12" terra cotta pots (the tall ones), that is a lot of soil and too much trouble to keep track of measurements.
Watering: I prefer to err on the dry side rather than wet, keeping in mind their natural habitat and that their roots are adapted to growing in much drier conditions than most other dews. I really don't have an exact watering schedule.
Outside during the growing season I do not have them sitting in water trays and top water until water starts to run out the bottom. I mostly just go by looks to decide when they want water, usually when the leaves start looking slightly droopy. When in doubt at the height of summer, I push a long skinny wooden skewer deep into the soil and if it comes up dry I water, if it is moist I wait another day or two. I don't change how I water when they are flowering. If we get heavy all day/night rain that lasts for more than a couple days in a row, I move the pots under a table outside until the storm front passes.
In the garage over winter, I have the pots sitting in shallow trays and don't top water them, I only fill the trays with water when the soil is dry using the wooden skewer method or if the leaves look droopy. I add water to the tray until the pot stops sucking it up, then let the tray dry out. I use the same indicators for watering regardless of season. They seem to slow down in growth some during the coldest part of winter, so they don't seem to use as much water then. I am not quite sure if this slowdown in growth is due to lower temps, lower light levels, the fact they are not eating as well as they do in summer, or a combination of these factors. Due to being inside with much less air flow and probably different humidity than when outside (the clothes washer and dryer are in the garage and are used every day), I think the soil tends to stay moist longer than when outside and that is why I use the tray method to water rather than top watering, keeping in mind they are large pots and I don't want moisture retained at the crown in these less than optimal conditions.
Feeding: Outside during the growing season, they feed themselves quite well. In the garage over winter, I spray a weak orchid fertilizer mix on them once or twice a month plus give them the occasional fly or bug I find flying/crawling around the house.
[/url]2014 by Djoni C, on Flickr[/IMG]
These conditions seem to work well for drosos here, but may not in another location. As is true with any CP, there are so many variables to take into consideration based on where you live and whether you grow them outside, inside the house, or in a greenhouse; Pot size, soil content, humidity, sunlight vs. artificial light (8 hours of direct sun in my area may have more or less intensity in another part of the country), temperature range, how much food they get, pot type, etc. I like to use terra cotta pots for my drosos because of their evaporative effect, keeping the soil cooler and helping the pot dry out quicker than plastic pots since we tend to get more rain in the growing season than say Southern California. Drosos grow deep roots so I like to use large tall pots, but I have seen them growing well in 6" and 8" pots although the roots can grow out the bottom of the pot.
Soil: I use an airy mix of perlite, pumice, sand, and a little bit of peat. No exact formula, I just mix everything, add water, grab a handful and squeeze and if it falls apart easily when I open my hand I call it good. I need the pots to drain quickly since they get rained on a lot in spring. Since I use large 10" and 12" terra cotta pots (the tall ones), that is a lot of soil and too much trouble to keep track of measurements.
Watering: I prefer to err on the dry side rather than wet, keeping in mind their natural habitat and that their roots are adapted to growing in much drier conditions than most other dews. I really don't have an exact watering schedule.
Outside during the growing season I do not have them sitting in water trays and top water until water starts to run out the bottom. I mostly just go by looks to decide when they want water, usually when the leaves start looking slightly droopy. When in doubt at the height of summer, I push a long skinny wooden skewer deep into the soil and if it comes up dry I water, if it is moist I wait another day or two. I don't change how I water when they are flowering. If we get heavy all day/night rain that lasts for more than a couple days in a row, I move the pots under a table outside until the storm front passes.
In the garage over winter, I have the pots sitting in shallow trays and don't top water them, I only fill the trays with water when the soil is dry using the wooden skewer method or if the leaves look droopy. I add water to the tray until the pot stops sucking it up, then let the tray dry out. I use the same indicators for watering regardless of season. They seem to slow down in growth some during the coldest part of winter, so they don't seem to use as much water then. I am not quite sure if this slowdown in growth is due to lower temps, lower light levels, the fact they are not eating as well as they do in summer, or a combination of these factors. Due to being inside with much less air flow and probably different humidity than when outside (the clothes washer and dryer are in the garage and are used every day), I think the soil tends to stay moist longer than when outside and that is why I use the tray method to water rather than top watering, keeping in mind they are large pots and I don't want moisture retained at the crown in these less than optimal conditions.
Feeding: Outside during the growing season, they feed themselves quite well. In the garage over winter, I spray a weak orchid fertilizer mix on them once or twice a month plus give them the occasional fly or bug I find flying/crawling around the house.
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