What's new
TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Giant Byblis photos

I am very pleased with the way in which my Byblis are turning out this year, despite the British summer (which is notoriously poor even in a normal year) being the wettest on record so far. Here are a load of photos of my biggest forms. I have posted the odd one of these on other forums, but most of them are new.

Byblis guehoi- all of the photos with flowers are of a single plant. The photo showing two young plants illustrates the manner in which this species can (but does not always in my experimental conditions) branch at an early stage





Byblis gigantea- most of these photos were taken when the illusive sun finally vanquished the clouds for a brief period in the late afternoon, making the Byblis positively glow. The photo of the leaf with prey clearly shows the fly enveloped in secretions. When B gigantea catches insects which adhere to the glands in such a manner that they touch the epidermis, fluid is rapidly secreted. A few days later, the prey is stuck fast to the leaf. The bodies of small flies seem to be completely annihilated. Prey which does not settle on the leaf surface is presumably not digested at all.




Last edited:
Those are some of the most healthy Byblis I have ever seen in cultivation! Amazing plants. I did not have much sucess with B. liniflora. . . Lots of seeds germinated and looked healthy for a while, but then they all slowly died away. Haha.

Would you mind sharing how you germinate/grow them?
Wow, those are amazing
Byblis filifolia- all of these are photos of giant plants raised from seeds from the Pago region of northern Western Australia. They differ from B guehoi and several other forms of B filifolia in that, inter alia, the pedicels are consistently shorter than the leaves. They are also very large and sturdy plants that have still not yet reached their full potential this year, judging by the new branches which keep appearing.





I'm really jealous. Tried growing two different types of Byblis, and they never make it past an inch tall, for some reason. What conditions do you grow them in?

seriously Greg Allan can you keep me in mind when you have some seeds i will be willing to pay postage or a trade :)

Hi Greg,

For your filifolia and guehoi plants, what do you grow them in? All my Byblis are in pure sphagnum moss at the moment. Just a matter of convenience since they do well and flower, but I wonder if the media affects their ability to branch. However, I do see that small pot size somehow hinders their ability to branch.
Last edited:
  • #10
Absolutely spectacular!
  • #11
B. guehoi (taller plant is 28" tall)

B. guehoi vs B. filifolia
Last edited:
  • #12
Hi all,

Thanks for the kind comments. I have compiled a brief growing guide, which I hope will be of use:

• SUBSTRATES: this year, I have experimented with a substrate of approx 1:1:1:2:2 peat:loam:eek:ordinary houseplant compost:pperlite:lime-free silver sand for the annual species. I believe that the addition of some nutrients to the substrate in this way encourages vigorous growth and branching. I grow B gigantea in a standard peat:lime-free sand:pperlite mix.
• POTS: large pots are absolutely necessary for B gigantea and desirable for the annual species
• SUNLIGHT: full sunlight is best, although I start my annuals off under envirolites in a heated terrarium, as the light levels in winter/early spring are insufficient. Plants brought from the terrarium into direct sunlight tend to branch particularly vigorously.
• GERMINATION: I always use GA3 for all species except for B liniflora. B gigantea do best with a 3-4 day soaking. 24 hrs is enough for the annuals. Substrate and light levels as above. The annual species seem to germinate best and grow best as seedlings in warm humid and bright conditions with some ventilation. B gigantea need strong light and good ventilation, as seedlings are very prone to damp-off.
• TEMPERATURES: adult annual plants are not fussy about temps. I keep some annuals in my greenhouse with the door permanently open in the summer. They seem to take temps down to at least 8 dec C without problems. Hot days are, I think, best, but as long as the light levels are high enough, they seem to manage OK with day temps in the high teens (deg C). B gigantea is a perennial, and can and can take temps as low as just above freezing. I keep most plants in a frost-free greenhouse all year long. I do keep a few plants on a very sunny windowsill in winter as an insurance measure, though. Low light levels and damp can lead to fungus and rot in the winter, though. In climates warmer than the UK, they will probably do well outside, at least in summer.
• WATERING: B gigantea likes to be kept damp. I stand it in a couple of cm of water, but I let the water all evaporate before adding more. If it sits in water for too long, it can rot. In the winter, I keep the substrate merely slightly damp, but I never let it dry out. I like to have a 1/2cm layer of silver sand on top of the normal substrate. This will usually remain bone-dry at all times if sufficiently tall pots are used. I generally sit the annuals in a bit of water, but they can also take quite dry substrate.
• POLLINATION: all except B liniflora and aquatica must be cross-pollinated for seed to be reliably obtained. The anthers need to be teased (a matchstick or suchlike is ideal) in order for pollen to be released. It can then be transferred to the female parts of flowers on another plant
• LOCATION: all are unfussy. B gigantea can be grown on a very sunny windowsill all year round, although it does seem to prefer my greenhouse in the summer. The annuals (especially filifolia, guehoi and rorida) are also unfussy as adults. They are equally happy in a greenhouse or on a very sunny windowsill.
• COMMON REASONS FOR FAILURE WITH THE ANNUALS: I have found the following to be causes of failure: insufficient sunlight; excessively dense substrate (hence my liberal use of perlite); in artificial conditions, plants being kept too close to fluorescent lights (I always keep a layer of glass between the lights and the plants- they can then be as close as you like); insufficient light, warmth and humidity (seedlings only); poor ventilation leading to sudden rot; inbreeding (try to keep a good genetic mix in your collection if space will allow). Note that B aquatica is far more fussy than the others, and requires tropical conditions with strong light and good ventilation- I keep them near a reptile fan in a heated terrarium, even as adults.

I sell spare seed every year on the CPUK forum. I also donate a lot to the British Carnivorous Plant Society’s seedbank (use of which is not restricted to UK-based members).