Here is some information I put together for genlisea:
Terrarium or windowsill: I would suggest starting to grow them in a terrarium where the growing conditions can be better controlled. I am experimenting with growing them on windowsills and they are not doing as well for me.
Potting Media: I have found that Long-fibered Sphagnum Moss (aka LFS) has given me the best results. I have also tried various combinations of peat and sand, which also work. A top dressing of sand is a nice contrast to make the plants look better, but I have found it harder to maintain. Undrained containers are fine, but I tend to submerge the plant every now and then, which the plant can tolerate. If there is a bottom drain, you can place a pot within a pot and keep the water level high to saturate the traps with water; a similar way that some people grow utricularia. I keep mine waterlogged and I don’t let them completely dry out.
Light: I have tried moderate to fairly bright, but no direct sun. I keep most of mine on a constant 16 hour light cycle to simulate summer all the time. I typically use two 40-watt cool white florescent tubes about a foot away. There are different opinions about how much light they can tolerate. The leaves will grow long and thin if the light is inadequate.
Humidity: I usually keep the humidity from moderate to close to 100% (terrarium is better).
Air circulation: Stale air and using pond water increases the possibility of mold in a terrarium. I think a fan would be helpful or at least keep a gap for airflow into the terrarium.
Temperature: The temperature should remain above 70 ° F; I think I have lost a few to temperature dips to the low 60’s. These are tropical plants (no dormancy required) and I have lost most through experimenting with lower temperatures.
Watering/Feeding: I use pond water to feed/water them. When I don’t use pond water, I use rainwater. I have experimented with using tannin-enriched water from oak leaves falling into my rain collection bucket. I have a theory that it could help prevent mold and it makes the potting media more acidic.
Fertilizer: Some claim that a light foliar fertilizer is beneficial, but the most I have used is watering with water from a pond that is high in nitrogen.
Transplanting: When the media breaks down or the plant outgrows its pot, it should be transplanted. There are no roots to worry about, but there are underground traps that are fragile. I have yet to transplant one with losing some of the traps.
Propagation: They can be propagated by removing a complete leaf, including the white base, and planting it onto wet LFS. I usually cover the white base piece with some LFS. If the leaf disappears, it did not work. Also, I have read that the flower scape can be planted on LFS for new plants.
Pitfalls to avoid:
Creeping Moss: Certain mosses can crowd out genlisea plants. The vast majority of new leaves sprout from the middle of the same rosette, so they do not spread across the surface of a pot like some utricularia can. Occasionally new leaves will sprout from the underground or surface traps. I use a top dressing of LFS to help prevent the spread of the smaller, invasive mosses.
Mold: I think good air circulation and a top dressing of LFS should help keep it at bay.
Slime Mold: They can be affected a slime mold. It is usually black/dark green and can overtake the plant’s leaves. I have taken cotton swabs to clean each leaf and that seemed to do the trick.
Die-back: After the plants blooms, there can be some “die-back” whereby some leaves die and other turn yellow/light brown. They have typically come back without changing any of the growing conditions. I have lost all of the leaves on some plants, and they eventually grew back from the traps.