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Do utricularia [bladderwarts] need dormacy
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woops[b said:
Well, in replying to the topic: most terresterial Utricularia have no dormancy requirements. The temperate aquatics do form a resting bud called a turion. These need to remain in cold dormancy for the winter months, and may be stored in the fridge. Several of the epiphitic species have very definite dormancies, and these must be adhered to. Let me know which apecies and I can tell you more.
some aquatic utrics don't need dormancy like u. inflata, gibba, and maybe purpurea.
Pill,
Most of the epiphyte species are best treated as highland plants though some (jamesoniana, and an Amazon form of asplundii) can be found at low land elevations. The problem there is being sure you have that specific form. The prior species has just entered cultivation and none of us that grow it are feeling too much like experimenting on them right now. The latter is in cultivation but most forms are highland type. I know of one individual with the Amazon form but I do not know if he still has it.
As for the dormancy issue, in some cases it can be bypassed but it absolutly depends on the plant being grown as an epiphyte so that the media around the stolons dries out some between "waterings" by rain/misting systems. I have seen a branch covered in moss and U. alpina growing strong year round under this condition while a pot of the same clone rotted away when it decided it was dormancy time
Most of the epiphyte species are best treated as highland plants though some (jamesoniana, and an Amazon form of asplundii) can be found at low land elevations. The problem there is being sure you have that specific form. The prior species has just entered cultivation and none of us that grow it are feeling too much like experimenting on them right now. The latter is in cultivation but most forms are highland type. I know of one individual with the Amazon form but I do not know if he still has it.
As for the dormancy issue, in some cases it can be bypassed but it absolutly depends on the plant being grown as an epiphyte so that the media around the stolons dries out some between "waterings" by rain/misting systems. I have seen a branch covered in moss and U. alpina growing strong year round under this condition while a pot of the same clone rotted away when it decided it was dormancy time
I think all the epiphytes have a period of rest when they stop growing and need drier conditions. It would be better to say less wet, since I always maintain some moisture. Once the epi's get established in the live LFS I use, they begin putting out stolons that reach out of the pot. I enclise these in loose strands of live LFS and after a bit new leaves emerge from the stolons. My moss always remains alive even in dormancy, although I allow the more dense potted material to remain out of tray water. I mist well daily and this leeps the moss alive, and provides the aeration needed while still keeping moisture available for the stolons which seem to continue to grow even if no leaves are being made. The actual pots I allow the moss to dry to a non living state at their surface.....just. As soon as I spot a new leaf growing, I slowly begin to increase the wetness in the pots ending up with the perforated pots in tray water for the growing period.
Of all the epiphytes, U. alpina has proved the least tempermental.
Of all the epiphytes, U. alpina has proved the least tempermental.
Well, U. longifolia is easy, but it is not an epiphyte.
In general these plants are difficult for beginners. You will find that those who do have them are reluctant to share the rare divisions possible with those with no experience, since it is likely that this would be a hard educational experience. U. asplundii is rare in cultivation. I suggest you find a start of U. alpina and practise with that species. Once you can demonstrate your abilities, you will be on the road, but I have to say these are some of the hardest CP to come by.
As to U. jamesoniana, the whole world is waiting for this little guy, and at present those hopes depend on several 3 cm cuttings held in loving trust by Pyro, Ron Gagliardo at the ABG, a grower in Germany and Holland, and my humble self. From us it will go to those involved with TC and to others with much experience with these plants. Hopefully it will only be a matter of time before it makes the rounds. Patience , grasshopper! We're working for you!
In general these plants are difficult for beginners. You will find that those who do have them are reluctant to share the rare divisions possible with those with no experience, since it is likely that this would be a hard educational experience. U. asplundii is rare in cultivation. I suggest you find a start of U. alpina and practise with that species. Once you can demonstrate your abilities, you will be on the road, but I have to say these are some of the hardest CP to come by.
As to U. jamesoniana, the whole world is waiting for this little guy, and at present those hopes depend on several 3 cm cuttings held in loving trust by Pyro, Ron Gagliardo at the ABG, a grower in Germany and Holland, and my humble self. From us it will go to those involved with TC and to others with much experience with these plants. Hopefully it will only be a matter of time before it makes the rounds. Patience , grasshopper! We're working for you!
Could you explain what is involved in dormancy for U. longifolia? When and what is necessary to keep it happy?
Thanks
Thanks
I treat mine like any other terresterial. They grow best when allowed a lot of space to run. My best plants are now grown out of the pots they were in, spreading through the drain holes and all through the water tray.
There is no dormancy that I have ever noted in this species, and will all due respect to Peter D'Amato, this is not an epiphyte.
There is no dormancy that I have ever noted in this species, and will all due respect to Peter D'Amato, this is not an epiphyte.
So what soil mix do you use for U. longifolia? Peat and sand? Or sphagnum and perlite/bark? Or what?
Thanks
Thanks
I haven't found any medium any better than another. The pot it was in was equal measures of LFS, peat and silica sand. The plant is now growing as a semifixed aquatic, along the floor of the tray it is in where there is a thin 1/8 inch layer of sand. I am letting it do as it will. They seem to appreciate a lot of water since the best growth is no longer in the pot. I think room to groove is one optimal consideration, but don't know if that will enhance or retard flowering. Guess I will see!