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fdfederation

Confused Magikarp
Current official weather conditions:
Temperature: 101 deg F (actual temperature is probably lower because of trees and grass and shade)
Relative Humidity: 13% (actual humidity is probably higher)

Nepenthes receive approximately 2 hours of direct sunlight in the afternoon. I mainly water Nepenthes with tap water. This is their first year growing outdoors.

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N. reinwardtiana, N. x'Gentle', N. truncata

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N. albomarginata, N. maxima 'Poso', N. 'Miranda', N. x'Ventrata'

Sarracenia receive approximately 4 hours of direct sunlight and 4 hours of filtered sunlight. I also water them mainly with tap water with occasional flushing using reverse osmosis water.

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S. flava, S. minor, S. leucophylla, S. 'Cobra Nest', S. 'Scarlet Belle', some hybrids
 
how's the growth been like? do they pitcher?
 
The Nepenthes continue to make pitchers since being put outdoors in March. They didn't pitcher much indoors at 50% relative humidity because of low lighting.
 
thanks, i'm trying to find nepenthes that is suitable for bay area coastal weather.
 
I don't think you'll have any trouble, unless you're aiming for those rare plants.
 
are you going to get any more nepenthes? which ones ?
 
I don't know. If I see any on sale (unknowns that are probably N. 'Ventrata' for approximately $1) at local stores, I might buy them. For other species/hybrids/cultivars (usually from online stores), I might buy them if the (total price + shipping) divided by the number of plants purchased is 5$, I might buy them. For me, I buy plants when I think the price is cheap enough and most of those plants also happen to be fairly easy to grow.
 
La Muerte Pulposa (The Mushy Death) has returned! :ohno:

Sarracenia flava
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:ohno:

I bet you could still salvage at least one growth point if you divide it, though.
 
  • #10
I was able to separate the growth node on the right, but the ones on the left were very difficult to separate. I took a sterilized knife and tried to excise enough of the middle.
 
  • #11
I am getting the mushy death left and right and it is really getting irritating. I am hoping to solve that problem once and for all one day. I am going to find out how to kill that stuff for good.
 
  • #12
Sarracenia
Well, La Muerte Pulposa just claimed another S. flava. :-( There are a few threads here about using trichoderma to prevent fungal induced rhizome rot.

Nepenthes
Some Nepenthes pitchers that opened recently

N. truncata A
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N. truncata B
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N. reinwardtiana
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N. 'Miranda'
20140831_153537_zps3ab2ee22.jpg


Darlingtonia
Second attempt at Darlingtonia, had the plant for 3 weeks
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  • #13
Update on Darlingtonia. It's producing two pitchers.
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I think I found a male carpenter bee among the Celosia.
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  • #14
I have always found that my larger rhizomes are always the most likely to rot. I now try to cut the Sarrs down to two or three growth points each winter.

I just started with Trichodetma this week. I have lots of hope for it with all of my CPs.
 
  • #15
Great plants. You are not that far from me, only half a hour. Nice plants, i have found that i lose the most plants to rot in the spring, after they wake up and i think they lived the winter. Your plants are looking very nice this time of year.
 
  • #16
what kind of rot are you guys talking about?
 
  • #17
I wonder if you're seeing more rot because of the relative lack of light. 4 hours of direct sunlight for Sarracenia doesn't seem like much.
 
  • #18
I have always found that my larger rhizomes are always the most likely to rot. I now try to cut the Sarrs down to two or three growth points each winter.

I just started with Trichodetma this week. I have lots of hope for it with all of my CPs.

I'd love to hear about the results.

Great plants. You are not that far from me, only half a hour. Nice plants, i have found that i lose the most plants to rot in the spring, after they wake up and i think they lived the winter. Your plants are looking very nice this time of year.

This past winter and spring was the first time La Muerte Pulposa struck my plants.

what kind of rot are you guys talking about?

Rhizome rot, where the growth points and other parts of the rhizome turn brown and mushy. I've read that it can be caused by fungi, bacteria, and fertilizer.

I wonder if you're seeing more rot because of the relative lack of light. 4 hours of direct sunlight for Sarracenia doesn't seem like much.

It's possible. In the past couple of years, they have received full sun during the summer. This year, I wasn't able to monitor them during the weekdays, so I had to limit sun to prevent them from drying out. So far, only the S. flava seems to be affected. I don't think there's much hope for it because I'm not seeing any growth in the salvaged growth points.

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Darlingtonia update:

Last week
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This week
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  • #19
N. ampullaria seeds are sprouting three weeks after sowing.

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