VFT Tanning - How to get red traps

Cindy

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The sun's the best but as we all know artificial light is better than no light. So for the experts, please comment, fill in the details and help us out here. This is what I have gathered so far on flourescent or compact flourescent.

Lumens vs Colour Temperature vs Photoperiod
Lumens - go as high as possible; that means, put in as many tubes with as high a wattage

Colour Temperature - 6000K to 6500K is closest to sunlight but I noticed many growers here using cool white which is around 5000K and their VFT traps colour up nicely. FL or CFL tubes with a higher K produces lesser lumens than one with lower K of the same wattage.

Photoperiod - mininmum of 12-16 hours

*p.s. Bear in mind that certain varieties of VFT will not turn red or extremely red even if you bake them under the sun. They are genetically coded not to produce much of the red colouring.
 
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I know everyone says to put VFT's under a minimum of 70-80w, but I have found that they grow just fine for me 1 foot under 2 18w grow tubes. I also have tall Neps under the same light and they color up just fine. This was really a test to see if VFT's were really that picky about light. So far, they really don't seem to care.

-Rail
 
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When my Venus Flytraps were in full growth, I had them under about 100 watts of light (compact flourescent warm white light). They colored up really nicely, so now we know that 100 watts is sufficient
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I had mine under 2 18w phillips plant lights and they grew tall and weak. I added 2 more and still poor health. I put them outside and they started growing like wild. The traps got very dark red.

This pic is with the 2 bulb set up. Notice long, skinny leaves and tiny traps.
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This is four months after I put them out side with the rest of my CP's.
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Yes, but how far away, under two 18w lights? And do you have reflective coatings around the pot/terrarium/whatever to help catch the light? And do you have anything between plants and lights like the top of a terrarium? How much of what section of light spectrum is caught by the glass, if any? And how healthy were the plants to start with? What variety of VFTs are being grown? Other factors than just light type affect color.

Honestly, the informal survey here is no way to gather any really useful information folks. No offense meant to anyone, but there are just too many unmentioned variables. And most of us are just informal growers anyhow. All this anecdotal evidence of good or bad growth under lights is just that - anecdotal.

There is no magic formula of "use bulb X". You'll just have to try and see what works for you, with the understanding that more light will probably work better, and sunlight is best. If color is weak, add more light. If still weak, check other factors of health, and add more light!
 
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<div>
(--Bugweed @ Dec. 07 2005,9:07)</div><div id="QUOTEHEAD">QUOTE</div><div id="QUOTE">Sunlight to a VFT is extremely important for its best growth. However, the sun, though responsible for the coloring process, is not the whole picture. We all know that anthocyanin cells in CP is the cause of their coloration. How a VFT colors up, and the "triggers" involved are another story. The old assumption of, "put the plant in the sun to promote the red coloration" is wrong. Yes, the plants may have genetics that respond to full sun, and the plants redden up. However, their are other triggers that have nothing to do with full sun that will turn the plant into a kaliedoscope of color. How the sun shines on some VFT's is the "secret" to their coloration. Some color up only in bright shade. Some will only respond to sun filtered through tall grasses or the dappling effect it would get through the branches of a tree. Many variables will produce bright, rich color, while some, genetically, won't color up to any extent, no matter what you do. So light is the key, but the most important factor, is how the sun shines, or doesn't shine, on a particular plant. The fun part is experimenting with your baby until you get the coloration you are looking for, using the guidelines above. Expect to to get negligable results from some of your babies too! In the CP world, nothing is usually an absolute in the life of a CP/VFT! EXPERIMENT!!! I did.</div>
Wow. How did I miss this post. I remember before I grew a giant variety in bubbled sun by Eucalyptus trees in the back yard. The plant was growing very strong and red. I mean it got red so fast that by sunset I would go outside and newly opened traps from morning already have color in them. After I moved to my new house which had no trees, the same giant variety received full sun but only produced green traps with faint red outlines at most. However, in full sun, my all varieties turned deep chocolate all over. So I think I'll be looking ito bubbled sun, morning sun, sunset sun more. Also I'll have to experiment with sun reflected off white stucco walls.
 
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Zappafan, I fail to see the link, though I think I understand what you are saying. It is possible, but would require further research. Alvin, late season sun, weaker, and less of it, and the plants turn red. Could be coincidence, but try them in bright shade, or dappled sun where the sun plays hide and seek with the plants, and see what happens. I have watched many different reactions to various conditions, with anticipation!!!! Some really fine results have come about. I should have posted this 10 years ago. But then, I wasn't HERE then!
 
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I see the connection now. Could be. So with the new growing season approaching, what do you plan to do about the information you now have on the coloring up process? I am still looking for plants that respond to full sun besides "Red Dragon". I have a couple, but am looking forward to a few more. Then, I will alternately shade some of my VFT's, others will be in dappled light, and bright shade. Maybe we all could find the light conditions for various clones that they respond to with color, and post their pics and growing and lighting conditions.
 
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Try an opaque fibreglass instead. It will cut down the harshness of the sun, and give you some really bright shade. See how it works if you can. Black mesh shadecloth, or green?
 
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Oh! One thing I forgot to mention. If the plants color up red in any situation (sun/shade/dappled sun), if they catch an insect before they reach peak color, wherever the color development is at, at the time of capture, the color sets at that point. The trap will not color up beyond the point of insect capture. So, if the trap is reddening, heading towards a brilliant red, and it is showing the flush of red color develoment, a capture stops any further color development ----dead in its tracks.
 

Cindy

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Just an update:
Osram 55W PL Lights x 2
Daylight
4550lm each
VFTs are 4" away from the light source
12hr photoperiod

On 31 Dec 2005
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Tonight
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Another pair for constrast
DSC02423.jpg


Just for fun  
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vftfun.jpg
 

Cindy

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Most recent trap. Love the red.
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 Same conditions as the plant in the previous post.

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Very nice, Cindy! I think your flourescents are like greenhouse whitewashed panels helping the reddening process. It would be nice if you could put them in full sun so we could see what happened then. Whether they retained the red, or lost color. Best case would be red no matter what!
 

glider14

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i put my Vft outside behind a bush and all of the leaves burned right off! i think it was just adjusting but now i got the crescent shaped prototraps which i know isnt normal. Now i have a growlight though(only one bulb...its all i can afford for now) and the leaves are now shorter and the traps a becoming a little more normal. my other VFT is flowering! its a very weak plant so im going to let it flower and get seed. another thing...when the traps open they do not close once they are 'teased'. i tore off one of the traps and there were no trigger hairs in there! what could be causing this???
thanks
alex
 
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