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Petiolaris group in dormancy

I thought you might like to see what petiolaris group look like when in dormancy. There are varying degrees of dormancy so don't be alarmed if your plant's leaves start shrinking back to the center.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/minicatt/sets/72157594557069972/

I try to keep them warm. The pots do not stand in water, but i do keep the medium moist while in dormancy. I've lost a couple when i've kept them dry! :censor:

Peter.
 
Awesome Pics! Everybody tells me to listen to my dews, they will tell me what to do. These help me understand dew talk.

THANKS
Steve
 
Add this to Pyro's topic and we have a rather complete picture!
 
Peter,
Thanks for sharing the pics. Many exhibit the classic dormancy-induced growth pattern. Post again in 2-4 months and let us know how well the plants come out of this state (especially the D. lanata & D. ordensis).
 
Very nice. I've jus recently stumbled onto the fact that some of my younger ordensis in larger pots do better than the ones in tiny pots, as they don't dry up as fast between waterings. When the rooms 95+ F, and I'm at work, it can get ugly quick.

-Homer
 
Thanks for sharing the pics. Many exhibit the classic dormancy-induced growth pattern. Post again in 2-4 months and let us know how well the plants come out of this state (especially the D. lanata & D. ordensis).
Ron, I'll be sure to post the post-dormancy pics in a bit!
I like Homer's suggestion of larger pots. I also find that the small pots can dry out quickly....especially when it hits 100 degrees in the tank!!

Peter
 
D. falconeri needs dormancy? This I did not know about. can someone tell me about this?
 
If I may be so bold, I don't know if that falconeri classifies as dormant. When mine go they pretty much disappear, no surface leaves at all. But maybe that is just mine...

I have a few plants breaking dormancy cycle I will try and shot them in the next few days and add them in here.

JMurph,

What exactly would you like to know? D. falconeri does go dormant and it is evident by a steady reduction of leaf size. The "inward spiral" as it were... When this occurs I like to prop mu plants on styrofoam blocks that raise them so that, when I water, the pot is no more than 1-2mm deep in the water. This allows for just a trace of moisture to be drawn up by the pot. Once the plant breaks dormancy I drop it back down and it grows like a weed.
 
I thought i would add a couple more pics of D. falconeri. This one was a tougher dormancy challenge for me than the others in the group.

It almost appeared dead for several months! All the leaves turned brown and there were NO new leaves in the center.
:0o:
It is just now starting to wake up! :banana2:

Those of you who have D. falconeri may want to take a look...

Peter.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/minicatt/sets/72157594557069972/
 
  • #10
Now that looks like a dormant falconeri. Scary when they look like that isn't it?
 
  • #11
Well let's see what months would it be dorment? How long does it stay dorment? What triggers this? Is it hot/dry or cold/dry or cold/wet? What should I do during this time? I need pretty much everything.
 
  • #13
In that thred the last post Homer put that light levels are the key and to keep them not so wet. 12-13 hours of light and his change. I have my timer set to about 14 hours and it has my neps in there too. How many hours of light should I give them? When should I start to decrese the hours so they can have a dormancy? Mine right now are real red and are starting to get dew because I put them closer to the light. The temps up there are also about 93.
 
  • #14
Supposedly petiolaris complex do not require dormancy and they'll grow fine without it by just keeping them wet. I don't think I've seen a post on this forum where petiolaris has not gone dormant though.
 
  • #15
JM,
When should I start to decrese the hours so they can have a dormancy? Mine right now are real red and are starting to get dew because I put them closer to the light. The temps up there are also about 93.

There is no need to induce dormancy!! :-O I would rather not have them go dormant, they just decide on their own. Your conditions and your plant sound great!! Red leaves, high light, and hot temps are a good thing for D. falconeri. Don't change unless you see signs of dormancy!

Hope that helps!
Peter
 
  • #16
Wow I was under the inpression that it needs to have a dormancy. This is good news. If it likes my conditions I might try some more from this group and get rid of the divas. Who wants a hamata?
 
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