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N. campanulata - what media you use?
- Thread starter Cindy
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What?!!!
So, this is now the Forum of Pandora's Nepenthes Tips(they can not be released or people will be growing great plants all over the world)?
Do I remember you are a teacher or in the school system there? Go to the black board and write lines!
Cheers,
Joe
So, this is now the Forum of Pandora's Nepenthes Tips(they can not be released or people will be growing great plants all over the world)?
Do I remember you are a teacher or in the school system there? Go to the black board and write lines!
Cheers,
Joe
Hi Joe,
I can't tell you...or anyone here.
Duckking,
Thanks.
duckking
my soul for CP.
Hello~ Schloaty, Maybe the problem is light. I think stable humidity is necessary.
Thanks to your suggestion and exposition. Duckking appreciate. thank you.
Joe, there is no longer blackboards in the schools here. Btw, that was some reaction!
Anyway, he grows them in LFS and perlite which I do with mine. And he grows them under lights which I do with mine...and that he found that they suffer during summer despite being lowland plants which I also concur since I had plants died back for me during the hottest months.
So I came to the conclusion that it is not the media afterall. But most likely that this species need cooler temperatures...more of intermediate grower than a true lowland species like N. ampullaria. Or at least a decent night drop is necessary.
Cheers!
Hmmmm..
I had a problem with over heating in my lowland chamber, and it didn't really phase my camps.
Reading everyone's threads here, I'm starting to lean towards the light factor. I think these may be lower light plants. Mine are both grown under artificial lights.
I had a problem with over heating in my lowland chamber, and it didn't really phase my camps.
Reading everyone's threads here, I'm starting to lean towards the light factor. I think these may be lower light plants. Mine are both grown under artificial lights.
I'd give it the strongest light it can stand. People say northiana "needs" shade/low light, but I find this not to be the case. Over the past year, mine continually bends towards the light Even if i rotate it so the growth is pointing in the other direction, it bends towards the light source eventually.
Hi Cindy and All,
We have at least four different clones of campanulata from TC , (two of which we know the gender-a male and a female-now, get them to flower together...).
Marc lives about a half hour drive from us, so if he grows them under lights I can't believe he has them outside. It would be excruciating heat and Marc would not do that-he's too much of a veteran grower. Our summers do get hot, but our greenhouse grown plants did not suffer from heat...in fact, they produce their best pitchers during summer. We grow them in our Cypress Mulch/sponge rock/ perlite mix and they do fine. Conditions are bright, warm and always humid. Very typical. We do nothing special for them.
We have at least four different clones of campanulata from TC , (two of which we know the gender-a male and a female-now, get them to flower together...).
Marc lives about a half hour drive from us, so if he grows them under lights I can't believe he has them outside. It would be excruciating heat and Marc would not do that-he's too much of a veteran grower. Our summers do get hot, but our greenhouse grown plants did not suffer from heat...in fact, they produce their best pitchers during summer. We grow them in our Cypress Mulch/sponge rock/ perlite mix and they do fine. Conditions are bright, warm and always humid. Very typical. We do nothing special for them.
Over 100 durring the days - that was only for about two weeks before I rectified the situation, however that's long enough to cause problems. I didn't have any.
I would like to amend this statement to say the strongest ARTIFICIAL light it can stand. I haven't tried direct sun, so I can't comment on that (which is, after all, the strongest light you can get).
Hey Trent, I have a male and female in spike right now! The male was about two weeks behind the female in developing the spike, so I hope that there is some crossover in the buds openning.
I have two clones - the one pictured earlier in the thread is my female, and it has (in strong light) a very distict red flushing. The male is a pure pale green pitcher clone.
Thanks, Trent. I was not clear enough in my previous post about Marc's way of growing N. campanulata. He is growing them under lights and not outside. He used to lose them earlier on when he grew them outdoors but not anymore, now that they are under florescent lights.
Thanks, schloaty. My balcony where I grow the N. campanulata under lights doesn't go beyond 95F but stays over 90F for the entire year during the day. The nights are in the 80s. Recently, the weather's been gloomy and the days are in the high 80s, with nights in the high 70s. The plants are putting out larger and better leaves now which is why I thought it could be the cooler temperatures that helped. A cold day here is 75F. LOL
I put one of the smaller plant at the balcony recently for some natural light and the growing tip got fried a little. Now, it is putting out another leaf and I'll see how it goes. The sky has been overcast but there are a few days of good light throughout the week so I feel that this would be a good time to acclimatise the plant. It has been under florescent lights ever since it arrived from Borneo Exotics. My first campanulata is from Malesiana Tropicals and it took 2 years to recover from flowering as a 3" plant. It has been under artificial light all this while.
Thanks, schloaty. My balcony where I grow the N. campanulata under lights doesn't go beyond 95F but stays over 90F for the entire year during the day. The nights are in the 80s. Recently, the weather's been gloomy and the days are in the high 80s, with nights in the high 70s. The plants are putting out larger and better leaves now which is why I thought it could be the cooler temperatures that helped. A cold day here is 75F. LOL
I put one of the smaller plant at the balcony recently for some natural light and the growing tip got fried a little. Now, it is putting out another leaf and I'll see how it goes. The sky has been overcast but there are a few days of good light throughout the week so I feel that this would be a good time to acclimatise the plant. It has been under florescent lights ever since it arrived from Borneo Exotics. My first campanulata is from Malesiana Tropicals and it took 2 years to recover from flowering as a 3" plant. It has been under artificial light all this while.
Cindy,
For us living in lowland areas, if we can get a five degree F extra night temp drop, you would be amazed at how much better many species do. Here in Florida during the summer we take advantage of our gentle breezes at night, combined with evening misting. Between air movement and evaporation we can get some cooling at night which benefits intermediate growers.
Dave,
Good luck on breeding the camps! Even if the time frame only allows for a few pods, you should get be able to get some seedlings going.
For us living in lowland areas, if we can get a five degree F extra night temp drop, you would be amazed at how much better many species do. Here in Florida during the summer we take advantage of our gentle breezes at night, combined with evening misting. Between air movement and evaporation we can get some cooling at night which benefits intermediate growers.
Dave,
Good luck on breeding the camps! Even if the time frame only allows for a few pods, you should get be able to get some seedlings going.
Hey Cindy,
well...I can tell you this about my 2 campanulatas...:
The one that is growing under shade and dried sphagnum is growing bigger and the other growing under strong light and peat moss and little % of perlite is growing also fine but as a miniature plant.
Anyway...since also my friends grow campanulata I did observe that the plant does its best when cultivated in spagnum ( dried ) and in light shading.
This is all what I can tell you.
Ah...by the way : with no doubts campanulata tollerates high temperatures as typical lowland plant.
Bye
Mr_Aga
well...I can tell you this about my 2 campanulatas...:
The one that is growing under shade and dried sphagnum is growing bigger and the other growing under strong light and peat moss and little % of perlite is growing also fine but as a miniature plant.
Anyway...since also my friends grow campanulata I did observe that the plant does its best when cultivated in spagnum ( dried ) and in light shading.
This is all what I can tell you.
Ah...by the way : with no doubts campanulata tollerates high temperatures as typical lowland plant.
Bye
Mr_Aga
I'm not sure if this will help, but I have one N. campanulata from TC that is pretty healthy. I live in Los Angeles where it's warm and humid most of the time. I try to keep the humidity up to at least 65% and average around 70%. Most of the Neps are on humidity trays. I try to mist them twice a day, morning and night. Sometimes I remember to add a little Epiphyte's Delight in with the water I spray them with.
The plants are on a rack in my apartment, not in a terrarium. I get a steady breeze so they get good air circulation. I use growlights - 48" shoplights with one plant & aquarium tube and one Agri-sun tube (hope I got the name right).
It grows slow and steady - just got my first 2.5" pitcher and none of the leaves are dying. I tend to spray my Neps with diluted Orthene (1/6 - 1/8 strength over 6 weeks) if they get pests or too many spots. I don't know if Orthene would help with the brown leaves. I kind of think not.
I feed it small mealworms. When I feed it, I tap the insides of the pitcher to mimic a struggling insect because mealworms don't put up much of a fight...hopefully that triggers the plant to secrete digestive enzymes.
Good luck with it.
Laura
The plants are on a rack in my apartment, not in a terrarium. I get a steady breeze so they get good air circulation. I use growlights - 48" shoplights with one plant & aquarium tube and one Agri-sun tube (hope I got the name right).
It grows slow and steady - just got my first 2.5" pitcher and none of the leaves are dying. I tend to spray my Neps with diluted Orthene (1/6 - 1/8 strength over 6 weeks) if they get pests or too many spots. I don't know if Orthene would help with the brown leaves. I kind of think not.
I feed it small mealworms. When I feed it, I tap the insides of the pitcher to mimic a struggling insect because mealworms don't put up much of a fight...hopefully that triggers the plant to secrete digestive enzymes.
Good luck with it.
Laura