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Adding serpentinite to soil for darlingtonia?

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DelSouth

Is this a terrible idea to replicate darlingtonia's natural habitat of serpentine soils? The plan is to either add serpentinite dust to live sphagnum/peat perlite or place chunks around the pot and have the water naturally distribute the minerals. I want to test the theory that minerals in serpentine soils kill pathogens that darlingtonia are especially prone to.

Are there any other suggestions of introducing heavy metals to the soil? Other ultramafic rocks to use besides serpentinite present in serpentine soil? I have tried a sulfur-based fungicide to aid with the pathogen problem, but it is not enough to prevent sudden death syndrome from a spike in heat.
 
I have had success with blue metal stone as mulch and mixing it to lfsm and Perlite. Be wary as it contains cobalt but otherwise is pretty clean if you get the organic stuff.
 
I meant that I have used a sulfur fungicide to attempt preventing sudden death syndrome from fungi spikes, but it hasn't worked well for me. I am now resorting to new methods such as adding heavy metals to the soil.
 
Just bought some serpentinite rock from the Siskiyou mountains. I will be running two experiments on my seeds indoors in peat moss + perlite after they stratify: mixed rock dust into the soil and added chunks to let water naturally spread the minerals. Will keep this thread updated.
 
I'm excited for this topic! I've tried a number of times over the years to grow darlintonia which has never worked. It'd be great to be able to grow them.
 
NineTailedLeopard said:
Yes I have. It's cooler where I'm at summers stay in the 80s to low 90s for a few months and it's cooler/cold the rest of the year.
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awesome, that's really good to know, and when you say mulch you are talking about just a top layer? I live incredibly close to Darlingtonia, I make frequent visits to see them in situ but I still struggle to grow them, this is a super interesting idea, might have to give it a shot.
 
Thack said:
awesome, that's really good to know, and when you say mulch you are talking about just a top layer? I live incredibly close to Darlingtonia, I make frequent visits to see them in situ but I still struggle to grow them, this is a super interesting idea, might have to give it a shot.
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Yes but definitely screen it with distilled water first really well. A safer option is purchasing serpentinite stone and putting it on the bottom of the pot.
 
I think placing small pieces of the stone at the top of the pot would be better. Watering from the top would let the minerals naturally flow from top to bottom and reach the entire soil. Remember to wear goggles for safety if you’re going to break apart the stone.
 
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NineTailedLeopard said:
Yes but definitely screen it with distilled water first really well. A safer option is purchasing serpentinite stone and putting it on the bottom of the pot.
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ill have to give this a shot, I just took one of my 5ftx6ft bogs apart to dedicate it entirely to Darlingtonia, when I water my lawn all the moss moves and ends up smothering the plants, going to have to try putting a top layer of serpentine as well as a layer in the bottom
 
adnedarn said:
I'm excited for this topic! I've tried a number of times over the years to grow darlintonia which has never worked. It'd be great to be able to grow them.
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Have you tried Trichoderma treatment for darlingtonia? I've seen theoretical discussions on its effectiveness but no tests.
 
No. Joseph Clemens used to use it on his pings and swore by it. I've considered grabbing some but it's pricy and has a short shelf life. I've considered portioning and selling it.
 
If you try growing them from seed I would try soaking the seeds in 2 parts distilled water and one part pure cobalt and 1 part hydrogen peroxide. Cold stratify them for 6-10 weeks in the refrigerator (do not freeze) than germinate indoors. This method for my Darlingtonia did work for 80-95 degree days in a short span of summer and gave them some really nice color in full sun. However I wish I had took pictures when I did because they were very happy for three years till they suddenly died and didn't come back 2 years after a late frost in May. I have ordered some more seeds and might distribute some seeds after cold stratification. I cut back on water levels when humidity outside went above 70% but watered more when the humidity dropped below 40% and they seemed to like the compensation. Key point: constant consistency or if that is not possible compensate for the shift accordingly. It is not an easy task but is definitely recommended. If you grow them inside a controlled environment with dormancy provided maybe you will have better luck though.
 
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Thack said:
I will absolutely try that, do you plan to keep them inside all year? was that the intention with all the heavy metals with them?
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No I grow outside because it's a milder climate where I live indoors is more for stable conditions but I will start the seeds inside till they are big enough to put outside. It's mainly July and August that get in the upper 80s to low 90s and the rest of the year it's cool to cold. Except for spring which can go from 80 degrees to 30 degrees overnight.
 
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