TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Utricularia quelchii
- Thread starter Martin
- Start date
All right, here is what I've got.
First I recommend you check this link and read the article on U. endresii (also about U. asplundii) cultivation. It is a good starting point.
http://home.earthlink.net/~dionaea/index.htm
The rest I have at home so you will have to wait till this evening before I post it
Pyro
First I recommend you check this link and read the article on U. endresii (also about U. asplundii) cultivation. It is a good starting point.
http://home.earthlink.net/~dionaea/index.htm
The rest I have at home so you will have to wait till this evening before I post it
Pyro
Alright, part II:
I am quoting directly here:
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> I use LF sphagnum for all my epiphytic Utricularia. I'm iun the process of swithching from Canadian to NZ sphag.
Environmental conditions? All plants sit in varying degrees of water (max probably half the depth of the pot, min a film on the bottom of the tank.) All Utrics are in enclosed terreria in my basement, at a fairly constant 68 deg F (lighting may bring the daytime temp (16 hr photoperiod in spring/summer, 14 hr in fall/winter) up to about 72, but not more than that. Humidity is high, and I water rarely. Lighting is fairly low (48" 2-tube shop fixture over my Utric tanks.)
I grow quelchii in my Heliamphora tank (higher light (4 48" tubes,) 1/4" of standing waterin the bottom of the tank.) It has not flowered yet but seems to be thriving. [Pyro's note here : from 2 leaves in Feb upto 12 in May.] [/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
I hope all this helps.
Pyro
I am quoting directly here:
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> I use LF sphagnum for all my epiphytic Utricularia. I'm iun the process of swithching from Canadian to NZ sphag.
Environmental conditions? All plants sit in varying degrees of water (max probably half the depth of the pot, min a film on the bottom of the tank.) All Utrics are in enclosed terreria in my basement, at a fairly constant 68 deg F (lighting may bring the daytime temp (16 hr photoperiod in spring/summer, 14 hr in fall/winter) up to about 72, but not more than that. Humidity is high, and I water rarely. Lighting is fairly low (48" 2-tube shop fixture over my Utric tanks.)
I grow quelchii in my Heliamphora tank (higher light (4 48" tubes,) 1/4" of standing waterin the bottom of the tank.) It has not flowered yet but seems to be thriving. [Pyro's note here : from 2 leaves in Feb upto 12 in May.] [/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
I hope all this helps.
Pyro
Hey Martin,
Endresii is the only Utric species that requires a true dry dormancy. Quelchii falls more along the lines of alpina slowing growth but never actually going dormant at this time the media should be kept only moist (the "thin film" period mentioned above.)
Here is a more complete part of an email I recieved from Belanger
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> I have found that you can't lump them together and give them the same growing conditions as they all adapted different habitat. That may be the reason that you have found such a wide array of advice for dormancy, for example. U. longifolia, U. nephrophylla can be kept warmer and wetter than the rest, while U. quelchii prefers to be cool (less than 70 and damp), and U. endressi can tolerate temps to 90 but only during dormancy when all above ground parts have died. If you are looking for cultivation information for U. endressi I refer you to an article I wrote some years ago for the CPN you can find at http://home.earthlink.net/~dionaea/index.htm.
The only plant that requires a "true" dormancy (defined by leaves dying) is U. endressi. In fact, it requires a drying of the soil to flower. U. quelchii on the other hand slows growth significantly during warmer temps, as does U. alpina, though this is hardly discernible. I have found that those species in section Iperua don't have a dormancy. So to summarize, each species has a different requirement when it comes to growing conditions and dormancy needs. [/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
As for the species I grow, the only Orchidioides I am lucky enough to have right now is alpina but I am activly searching for others and may have a line on a few.
If you know a source of any I'd love to hear from you
Pyro
Endresii is the only Utric species that requires a true dry dormancy. Quelchii falls more along the lines of alpina slowing growth but never actually going dormant at this time the media should be kept only moist (the "thin film" period mentioned above.)
Here is a more complete part of an email I recieved from Belanger
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> I have found that you can't lump them together and give them the same growing conditions as they all adapted different habitat. That may be the reason that you have found such a wide array of advice for dormancy, for example. U. longifolia, U. nephrophylla can be kept warmer and wetter than the rest, while U. quelchii prefers to be cool (less than 70 and damp), and U. endressi can tolerate temps to 90 but only during dormancy when all above ground parts have died. If you are looking for cultivation information for U. endressi I refer you to an article I wrote some years ago for the CPN you can find at http://home.earthlink.net/~dionaea/index.htm.
The only plant that requires a "true" dormancy (defined by leaves dying) is U. endressi. In fact, it requires a drying of the soil to flower. U. quelchii on the other hand slows growth significantly during warmer temps, as does U. alpina, though this is hardly discernible. I have found that those species in section Iperua don't have a dormancy. So to summarize, each species has a different requirement when it comes to growing conditions and dormancy needs. [/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
As for the species I grow, the only Orchidioides I am lucky enough to have right now is alpina but I am activly searching for others and may have a line on a few.
If you know a source of any I'd love to hear from you
Pyro
Glad to hear it
Keep an eye on that longifolia it'll grow like a weed. I didn't realize how much stolon growth had occured on my plant (there was more plant matter than media when I unpotted it!! )
Also, tell me if you get leaves that are any longer than the ones currently on it. All mine are about that size and I am wondering if it is a trait of this form or if I am giving the plant too much light.
Pyro
Keep an eye on that longifolia it'll grow like a weed. I didn't realize how much stolon growth had occured on my plant (there was more plant matter than media when I unpotted it!! )
Also, tell me if you get leaves that are any longer than the ones currently on it. All mine are about that size and I am wondering if it is a trait of this form or if I am giving the plant too much light.
Pyro
