TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk
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U. menziesii
- Thread starter theironmonkey
- Start date
- tuberous Utricularia (the only one, I know)
- needs bone dry substrat during summer dormancy
- substrat is loamy in nature and gets very hard (this will protect the tubers from drying out)
- builds clusters of tubers. Each individual tuber can build a new plant, but it will take years for it to flower
pictures at http://www.cephalotus.net
I grow a yellow and a red form, but only for some months now. They didn't flower yet.
Martin
- needs bone dry substrat during summer dormancy
- substrat is loamy in nature and gets very hard (this will protect the tubers from drying out)
- builds clusters of tubers. Each individual tuber can build a new plant, but it will take years for it to flower
pictures at http://www.cephalotus.net
I grow a yellow and a red form, but only for some months now. They didn't flower yet.
Martin
Probably the hardest Utric to grow and sustain year after year. From the research I have done on it's habitat and the questions I have asked other growers I have compiled some growing conditions, but please bear in mind that these are all speculative.
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Planting: Most people recieve this plant as a dormant tuber. Keep the tuber in a cool dry place until you see signs of growth then plant the tuber at a depth of 3 times it's diameter.
Media: 4:1 or 5:1 sand : peat. In habitat this plant seems to frequent areas on or around granite outcroppings so it might help to add 1-2 parts fine granite pebbles, there is also some indications that it grows in areas with laterite.
Watering: Grow in a drained pot (I would guess it should be at least 4" maybe larger) with a tray at least as deep as the pot. In nature these plants expereince a gradual rise in the water table as the rainy season progresses, flowering when the plant is under a film of about 0.5-1 cm of water. With that in mind I suggest that as growth appears water be introduced slowly to the tray, keep the level at 0.5 cm the first week, 1 cm the second, 2 the third and so on until the level is at or just above the soil level. Keep the water level high untill the plant starts to die back and then slowly let the pot dry out over the course of a month (this is important, if you dry the plant too fast it won't form it's tuber correctly and will die.) Keep the pot dry during dormancy but ensure there is still high enough humidity to prevent dessication of the tuber.
Temp: During growth the temperature should not exceed 65-70, ideally ~60. While dormant, the tuber can with stand temperatures upto 100 degrees but this is not advisable. I have no data on low temperature tolerance.
Light: As bright as possible/full sun. This is neede for the plant to produce enough stores to grow new tubers. The challenge here is getting the light bright enough while keeping the temps down.
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That is all I have so far but I am still searching for more.
As for where to find it, the only person I know of is Allen Lowrie.
Pyro
**************
Planting: Most people recieve this plant as a dormant tuber. Keep the tuber in a cool dry place until you see signs of growth then plant the tuber at a depth of 3 times it's diameter.
Media: 4:1 or 5:1 sand : peat. In habitat this plant seems to frequent areas on or around granite outcroppings so it might help to add 1-2 parts fine granite pebbles, there is also some indications that it grows in areas with laterite.
Watering: Grow in a drained pot (I would guess it should be at least 4" maybe larger) with a tray at least as deep as the pot. In nature these plants expereince a gradual rise in the water table as the rainy season progresses, flowering when the plant is under a film of about 0.5-1 cm of water. With that in mind I suggest that as growth appears water be introduced slowly to the tray, keep the level at 0.5 cm the first week, 1 cm the second, 2 the third and so on until the level is at or just above the soil level. Keep the water level high untill the plant starts to die back and then slowly let the pot dry out over the course of a month (this is important, if you dry the plant too fast it won't form it's tuber correctly and will die.) Keep the pot dry during dormancy but ensure there is still high enough humidity to prevent dessication of the tuber.
Temp: During growth the temperature should not exceed 65-70, ideally ~60. While dormant, the tuber can with stand temperatures upto 100 degrees but this is not advisable. I have no data on low temperature tolerance.
Light: As bright as possible/full sun. This is neede for the plant to produce enough stores to grow new tubers. The challenge here is getting the light bright enough while keeping the temps down.
************************
That is all I have so far but I am still searching for more.
As for where to find it, the only person I know of is Allen Lowrie.
Pyro
This plant is definitly a difficult one, not for beginners. I am inclined to suggest that you try growing some of the tuberous Drosera first as they come from the same general area but are a little more forgiving. If you can sustain these for a couple years then you could consider giving U. menziesii a try.
As for my plans with this plant, if I come across one I'll probably pick it up but I am not activly searching for it, spending most of my time looking for Iperua and Orchidioides section Utrics
I will keep you in mind should I find out anything else.
Pyro
As for my plans with this plant, if I come across one I'll probably pick it up but I am not activly searching for it, spending most of my time looking for Iperua and Orchidioides section Utrics
I will keep you in mind should I find out anything else.
Pyro
Martin,
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">the tuber can with stand temperatures upto 100 degrees but this is not advisable[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
I get this from a couple sources. In retrospect I probably should have worded it "While the tuber can withstand short periods upto 100 degrees, this is not advisable."
Pyro
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">the tuber can with stand temperatures upto 100 degrees but this is not advisable[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
I get this from a couple sources. In retrospect I probably should have worded it "While the tuber can withstand short periods upto 100 degrees, this is not advisable."
Pyro
