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Tridentata info and opinions wanted........

  • Thread starter rattler
  • Start date
i recieved a U. tridentata plug about 4 weeks ago along with a sandersonii plug. the sandersonii is doing wonderfully and starting to spread. the tridentata on the other hand looks like it just recently came out of transplant shock, and doesnt look near as nice as the sandersonii and just seems to be coming along slowly, both sat in the shade under a large Nep for about 2 weeks to help acclimate them to my CP tank and i moved them to brighter light 2 weeks ago. does it take longer for this species to adjust to new situations? its in a primarily peat based mix with some lfs and perilite which my livida loves. they are in 4 inch pots sitting in about 1.5 inches of water. does tridentata prefer to be more flooded? and if it does will the sandersonii be afected by higher water levels or should i get it a seperate tray with the current water level? any help or opinions would be good.

Rattler
 
I bet you are all ready for a long discourse on cultivation details, but nope. I grow mine just as I do most of the terresterials, in pure fluffed peat, in tray water on a wet to dry schedule, and about 6 inches from twin flourescent tubes (40 watt, 4 foot, balanced spectrum). It is a slower growing species than U. sandersonii, but once it establishes grows and flowers with relative ease. It seems to flower seasonally in the spring vs continually (like U. sandersonii and U. livida which seem to flower whenever they feel like it)

Like the other terresterials, this is ammenable to many different mediums and degrees of wetness. I have grown U. sandersonii as an aquatic for periods of time, like many others.

Patience is the real requirement with many of these species!
 
I water my tridentata the same as my sandersonii. I vary the water level. It does seem to me that the tridentata is a lot slower growing.
 
heres another question.....why so close to the lights? my tallest Neps are 8inches from 2 pairs of 32 watt 4ft T8 tubes(i forget the number but it was the only one i could find out of a half dozen or so ones that members on here recomended) my other plants are 12 to 18 inches from the lights depending on pot hight. my D. adelae is one thats almost 18 inches from the lights and has turned a nice red as are the leaves of some of my shorter Neps. none of my plants appear to be suffering from lack of light based on my many years of growing house plants. so i wonder why everyone places them so close to their lights?

Rattler
 
For me the light distance is a consequence of the mounting I use. I am sure they would do well in less light. I have found my Drosera look better if grown 4-6 inches from the tubes, so things are pretty much set for that distance.
 
If I read the previous posts correctly, Tamlin is using 2 tubes while Rattler is using 4 tubes?  That right there will make a difference in the distance for strongest plant growth.

(although a bit technical.. it would be best to include the area illuminated not just the number, wattage, and distance.)
T
 
Tony i realize the difference in number of tubes but i constantly read posts of Drosera species and such being 6 inches from the lights, and just i dont see why based on my limited observations over the last 6 or 7 months. im sure some species may need more light than im currently providing but what im doing with the species i currently have SEEMS to be working. btw my area at the moment is 14x48 inches(20 inches from bulbs to bottom of tank) lit by 4-32 watt bulbs. im going to build a much larger chamber starting next weekend.

Rattler
 
I don't grow a whole lot under lights but with normal shoplights it is nearly impossible to overexpose the plants. Even right next to the bulbs it is a far far far cry from the sun that many cps receive outdoors in their natural habitat. So I guess folks just get the plants as close as possible to give the most benefit to the plants (without burning them from the heat of the bulb).

If your set up works and your happy with the results then go with it.. everyones situation is different. I think the key is to try new setups and combinations to always be looking for improvements in plant health/growth.
Tony
 
i wish i could have a greenhouse but i dont see how i realistically could during the winters up here, cooling in the summer could be quite entertaining too. our weather is unreal. growlights are basically my only option since i dont have any south or west facing windows that i can use for plants.

Rattler
 
  • #10
Speaking for myself, I dislike any etiolation in my Drosera. Even under 8 40 watt tubes lighting a 4' x 4' area I get atypical growth: petioles elongate. The plants are beautiful, but don't reflect their appearance in habitat. They appear larger, looser, and less well colored. Even growing them outdoors in my area of 49% available sun doesn't cut it. The best results I can come up with has the plant rosettes nearly in contact with the tubes: but then I can't appreciate what I have. It's really a matter of personal aesthetics I suppose. If your results please you, that is all that really matters.
 
  • #11
as soon as my plants look to me like they need different conditions i move them. i learned this with orchids. i have one thats growing like a weed right now in a window that i wouldnt think would grow much of anything but you would swear i was pumping miricle grow to it instead of intentially abusing it to prove to ppl that orchids arent that difficult. btw its in spike now for the third time this year. it makes me shake my head when ever i walk by it.

Rattler
 
  • #12
It does not seem that the flowers last long. After about a week it looked as if it was shrivelling. I was going to look at it tonight, but I notice the stalk and all was gone!
It seems one of the cats decided to eat it.
sad.gif
 
  • #13
I grow my tridenta right next to my sandersonnii. I so flood them ever so often. My mix is peat, sand and perlite. It is doing very well and has flowered.
 
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