Still having Lighting Problems.

[nepenthes gracilis]

Hey guys I am still having problems with my S.Leuco and Flava var. Flava. I bought a 2 foot (60CM) shop light fixture with 2 2 foot (60cm) Gro Lux (reccomended by D'Amato in his book) to fit into the fixture. My VFT's are OK but not great and my Sarracenia anr not good. Flava leans over and leucophylla doesn;t but no pitchers. Any ideas? should I mix the lights with 1 cool white and leave the other the Gro Lux as it is a Gro light. Thanks all!

 

[Tamlin Dawnstar]

I have never had success using flourescents on mature Sarracenia. The problem is that the light falls off quickly the greater the distance from the bulbs. Light follows the law of inverse square, light twice the distance from the bulbs is four times less bright. This means that the light reaching the growing point on the surface simply is not enough to promote healthy compact growth, and the plants etiolate to try to reach the source which is why you have floppy plants. With Droserae, the growing points can be positioned close to the bulbs, and this results in good growth. Sarracenia are too tall to allow for this close placement, and are really best grown outside in full sun. If this is not possible, you will need (4) 40 watt bulbs minimum, and 6 are better, and even then the results are not optimal. Even with my 1000 watt system both Sarracenia and Dionaea are less than happy.

 

[nepenthes gracilis]

Ahh, I see now. Well I WOULD put them out in the sun except it's a bit to cold here now. You know how cold it is in Osewego! Think of it up here near Watertown!

 

[Tony Paroubek]

Try and get them into a southern or western window for some natural sun. Another thing you could try if you have more than one light fixture you could try putting one vertical so that it is parrallel with the tall Sarracenia leaves. This would allow much more light to hit the leaves since the bulk of the plants photosynthetic material is in a vertical position. This may also cause them to lean.. requiring alot of pot turning!
T

 

[Dyflam]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from Tamlin Dawnstar on 11:54 pm on April 24, 2002
The problem is that the light falls off quickly the greater the distance from the bulbs.  Light follows the law of inverse square, light twice the distance from the bulbs is four times less bright.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>

This is true for a point source of light. The flourescents being used are considered extended sources and the relationship is a little more complex I think. The bottom line though is the plants are not getting sufficient light.

 

[Mike King]

Hi Nep G,
Last time we chatted, you were talking to your dad about getting a greenhouse, now that would solve everything....!

 

[nepenthes gracilis]

Yes Mike but you mistunderstood me I said my dad was goign to help me GET a greenhouse for ME on his dad's property across the road. Get it now?

I know it is a little confusing. Tony, what about "E"-glass that is what my mother had installed a few years ago it just simply keep your inner home form tthe fading caused by sunlight. Will that affect the spectrum? Thanks.

 

[Tony Paroubek]

I don't think E glass is too much of a concern. Fading from sunlight is caused by the uv rays which are much shorter than the 420 nm wavelength that chlorophyll absorbs.
Tony

 

[sarracenia]

Nep G -
I don't think it's too cold for them where you're at. As long as there is not going to be any deep freezes, they should be just fine. Frosts at night aren't going to harm them. It got down to 28 here last night. All my flowers and developing pitchers came through without a scratch. If you got room to grow them outside, put them outside. There's nothing Sarracenia appreciate more than lots and lots of direct sunshine.

 

[nepenthes gracilis]

I didn't know that Sarracenia esp. Leuco and Flava were THAT hardy while growing! I mean my Purp Purp is doing fine as well it is native to my area!! And yes it's flowers don't have a scratch on them! I also forgot that I have them on an enclosed porch which quickly heats up in the early moring to about 30-40 F then warms right up to 50-60F then at when it is the hottest out side it gets about 65-70F and MUCH hotter ie: 90F in the summer. So you think even 20F wouldn't harm Flava or Leuco 20F isn't my temp about 30F is my coldest at night now. and around 25F possibly. But I still cannot belive those temps cannot harm Flava and Leuco esp as they are "true" Southeastern Sarracenia. Mike King care to help me out here? And thnaks Tony as now I can move my other light starved CP to other windows in the household. That really helps out!

 

[sarracenia]

Even the southern species are hardier than they are given credit for. A few years ago I had all my Sarracenia in a gigantic tub that was frozen solid for 3 days straight and I didn't lose a single plant. I think the duration of cold is more lethal than actual temperatures. Even at this time of year, I don't think 25 degrees is going to hurt them, if it's just an overnite occurrence. It's certainly not going to kill them.

 

[nepenthes gracilis]

So would new pitcher be killed off? Ones that are developing? And do you suggest that I move them out on the porch with the Purp Purp?

 

[nepenthes gracilis]

Also could VFT's go out with them on the porch too? I am assuming yes.

 

[Mike King]

Hi Nep G.
A new pitcher on a non aclimatised plant would get frost damage to the pitcher, I would put your plants outside once risk of frosts are out of the way.
Long term trials of flava and leuco here in England seem OK for the last couple of years..

 

[nepenthes gracilis]

Until Hard frosts,light frosts or all frosts are over? Also what about the VFT's?