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S. flava seedlings


It’s a trap!
Well, it has been 25 days ( planted 9/1/2002 )since I planted my S. flava seeds. Here is what they look like today. Although you cannot see it in the photo, the plant on the right has a tiny pitcher growing.


I planted 4 out of about 30 seeds. Only two sprouted. The two that didn't sprout were much smaller in size.

Hey! Those look just like mine!! (though mine aren't all flava)
awz lookie the ickle beebees. Congrats
I am hopeing to get some for my B-day, but I'm not sertain my familly is thrilled about me getting MORE plants lol!
Here is a photo of the two seedlings on 10/3/2002. You can easily see the pitchers forming on both plants. One is growing much faster than the other.

Good job Nick!
I wish you Good Luck with them for the years to come (hopefully).
I have another pot with 20+ seeds planted. I noticed today that they are starting to sprout. I will also have some S. purpurea, alata, rubra, and several others seeds later in the month. I put an order in at the ICPS seed bank.

I plan on storing my purpurea seeds for a while, atleast until I figure out when I'll be moving again.
Great! They look just like my Sar seedlings! Here's a question: At what point should they be potted up? (Mine are in a jiffy pot seeds germinator).
  • #10
I am going to repot mine once they get 5 pitchers on them. I think I will put both of these in the same pot until they get 2 years old. I plan on growing these under lights in my office ( fancy name for my computer room ).

  • #11
Wow, they are growing fast. So what am I hearing about seed bank? How does one get seeds?
  • #13
alright,you have persuaded me to get some sarraceinia seeds!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!hope I can get some!
  • #14
P.S. keep us posted on how the seedlings are doing.
  • #15

The first plant has its pitcher open now. Very cute plants at this stage.

  • #16
Hey! No fair! Yours are faster than mine!

By the way, what kind of light are they under? Mine are still in the seed germinator, and they don't get much light.
  • #17
They are under 2 fluorescent tubes. One is a 24 watt cool white, and the other is a 40 watt full spectrum. The pot is 8 inches from the lights.

Temperatures are between 65°F - 85°F. Humidity runs 70-90%. I did have a fungus problem on the Drosera intermedia "Cuba" seedlings in the same pot. Dragon 3336 WP did the job of removing the fungus.

I have another pot S. flava a few weeks behind these. There are 20+ seedlings starting to grow.
  • #18
Cool, thanks. I'll put them uder the fourescent lights.
What's this dragon stuff? Fungicide? Can I use it one soil where seeds haven't germinated yet? I ask because my potting medium is starting to look frosted, and I worry it's going to kill my seeds.
  • #19
Dragon 3336 WP is the same thing as Cleary 3336 WP, which is available through pft. However, it comes in a more concentrated form and you have measure it youself. The Cleary 3336 WP from pft, is ready to add to one gallon of water.


It will not prevent or control damping off. It will keep the seeds from molding.
  • #20
Nick brings up a good point regarding use of fungicide with Sarracenia seedlings, though he may be a bit off base he has the right idea.

Regardless of product name, though different fungicides have different reasons --you want to use fungicides for all seedlings.
Sarracenia have a built in defense against fungal attacks, ant the seed is tough.  Once sprouted they use this defense up and pre-treatment is really the best defense.
A high rate of failure comes with the seed sprouting and then damping off due to various fungal attack.  A good basic fungicide to apply as a drench (about 1 oz per inch of pot) is the old stand by "Captan WP 50"   WP stands for wettable powder for all fungicides.  Captan can still be found at most independant Garden/nurseries, it is a excellent contact fungicide and cheap.  Apply this with your seeds, and then spray them with it after they germinate at 10 day intervals, to cover the soil.  Watch the amount you use regardless of fungicide used as too much will do great harm.  Avoid using petro based fungcides on very tender young seedlings, always locate a WP=wettable powder for this and mix with water.

It can't be overstated that the most often cause of failure with seedlings is damping off after sprouting.

In general a good fungicide program should be taken up for all of your cp as they go down to fungal attacks more than any other best.  Rotating the fungicide is a smart choice too.  Clearys is simply a brand name.  The chemcial is called Thiophanate methyl, and this fungicide is sold under a host of names as the patent as expired.  But simply using the same chemcial over and over is a no go and expensive.  You see fungus are smart and every time you spray some, a few live and the next time you spray the ones that live are immune and breed more that are immune.  Captan is really good as it kills the fungal spores on contact and they can not get immune, they dry out like a fungus you would see growing between my toes now <HAHAHA>, which I will spray with a human fungicide!!!!  But captan isn't for all fungal problems, however it is excellent for seedlings and has been for years.

Ofen seedlings will die off after growing well for a month or 2 due to damping off diseases, which are too complex to try to name, but using a fungicide at recomended dose will help let the seedlings grow.

St. Petersburg Florida