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Portable RO unit for an apartment???

  • Thread starter pappydew
  • Start date
  • #21
Definitely will be checking every time...what's the point of a nifty new gadget if I don't use it, right?

Thanks though for the link. Will be considering small RO units in the future if I ever expand the collection beyond my current water needs.
 
  • #22
Received my EZ meter today...the name fits.

Water in trays is 36-37 ppm, tap is 195 and my aquarium is 310.
 
  • #23
Well...

Went to my LFS and had them fill up one of my 5 gallon jugs. Good thing I didn't buy another 5 gallons worth because I just checked the water...220 ppm!? That's worse than my tap.

So I'm a bit peeved right now. Guess I'll be buying bottled water again and possibly saving up for an RO unit.
 
  • #24
first thing you need to decide is if you want RO water on demand....
If so then you will want a system with a captive air tank (aka bladder tank, aka accumulator, etc)

Then you need to decide on how pure you want your water to be.... under ideal conditions a RO will reduce your TDS by 98%, Realistically, this will probably be more like 95-96%

So if you have 200 ppm tap, the RO water will be 10ppm, if you have 1000 ppm tap the RO output will be 50ppm, etc

To remove what the RO membrane doesn't we use DI beads....

Also, if your supply cannot maintain 45-50psig minimum, forget about buying a RO unless you install a pressure booster pump.
 
  • #25
So is that what's shown here, the tank? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apartment-R...all_Kitchen_Appliances_US&hash=item41534fbc38

Is that necessary or can I not just have a Y adaptor that switches between tap and RO?

I'm ok with the RO coming out about 10 ppm. I would have been fine had the store's water been even 50 ppm...

That last part is a bit worrying to me being in an apartment complex. The water pressure here isn't very high, might have to do some digging to see if it's even at the right pressure to hook a system.
 
  • #26
yes, that is the tank.....

RO systems are HIGHLY dependent on the pressures being correct, if you have low pressure it will never work right
That is pretty much black and white, you can get a booster pump, that those are typically over 100USD by themselves.

When sourcing a RO system, it pays to really do your homework and understand the process and what is required.

The tank's purpose is to "bank" the RO water so you have instant access to several gallons of pure water.... these are meant to be constantly connected, they shut themselves off when the tank is full.
 
  • #27
I see, so just running the RO into a separate container or jug isn't an option then?

I suppose it wont matter much it I have low pressure. I really do appreciate all the help so far! Don't want to spend money on a unit that isn't going to work.
 
  • #28
yes, it is an option.... it just depends on your operational requirments

If you want to connect your ice maker, or have RO ready at flip of a valve, then the tank is required

If you just want RO water to fill your 5 gal bucket once a week for your plants, then the tank is not needed....

RO systems really need at least 50-60psi, under 45 psi and they are going to be problem childs
 
  • #29
Is there an easy way to find out psi? I'd call the water company but I'm not sure it would be accurate being in an apartment complex.
 
  • #30
water company information is basically useless, you can have issues with the home plumbing...
and you really need to check it where you are going to connect the RO

if you think you have low pressure you probably do :)
if you really want to check, lowe's etc have cheap gauges for under 10 bucks (but then you have to connect it somehow)
 
  • #31
I have a gauge tee'd into the supply line for my system...

fwiw, a non tank system is more forgiving when it comes to inlet pressure
It has to do with pressure differential
 
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