opinions on best mix

[Capslock]

Well, again, I'd like to point out I've only used this for a while. I know people who grow wonderful plants in cypress mulch, which is very much like cedar mulch. What I like about it is that it holds water better than orchid bark, and makes it unnecessary to use much peat or sphagnum at all. You can see that it's shredded material, and it soaks up water pretty fast. And it's a lot cheaper than orchid bark. You do have to rinse it thoroughly, though.

Chrono - in this batch, there's a handful of peat moss, but not much. Otherwise cedar mulch and pumice.

Max

 

[-=Joel=-]

I used to grow in an all spag mix. I wanted to change over to a drier mix though to make the plant work a little harder to put down roots.

I now use this mix:

medium orchid bark 2 : small orchid bark 1 : perlite 1 : peat moss 1 : spagmoss 1~ quantities arnt measured though. Just mixed till it looks right.

I am finding this mix easier to control than just pure spag moss. You can leave it for a few days in warm conditions if need be but I tend to water once every 2 days.

 

[Av8tor1]

activated charcoal has been treated with oxygen to open up its pores, increasing the surface area greatly

The use of special manufacturing techniques results in highly porous charcoals that have surface areas of 300-2,000 square metres per gram. These so-called active, or activated, charcoals are widely used to adsorb odorous or coloured substances from gases or liquids.

good ref

Av

 

[xvart]

The use of special manufacturing techniques results in highly porous charcoals that have surface areas of 300-2,000 square metres per gram.

Wow! That's insane!

xvart.

 

[The Griffin]

I wonder if cedar is better at repelling insects than cyprus? Cyprus works great with reptiles/amphibians but cedar is toxic, because of the types of oils in it. Would that apply to pests?
Cocohusk is great stuff, but not as cheap as garden center mulch.

Cheers,

Joe

 

[Av8tor1]

Cypress has its own version of a biochemical oil that facilitates it's resistance to pests and moulds, its called "cypressene"

Av

 

[vraev]

guys, nearly every nep description at nepenthes university says potting mix is LFS. I personally find that the water nearly immediately comes out from the bottom of thepots when the moss is wet...i.e., enough space for air and not too compact.

I have seen pics of many ppl grow beautiful neps on the CPUK board in LIVE LFS.

Is it ok? I used dry LFS as I do not have soo much live stuff. Is it good as long as I water once in a week or so...becos for my ventrata which has a peat mix + lfs top layer..I water once in a week + spray atleast once a day and it has gone wild.

 

[jimscott]

The forum member called Snowy Falcon was a strong proponent of live LFS and he had obvious success with it. My Judith Finn came from him.

 

[Capslock]

LFS works fine and the plants are happy - it just degrades relatively quickly, and can be kept too wet leading to root rot. But half my plants are still happily growing in it. Also, I put live lfs on top of several pots as a top dressing, and it both looks good and keeps local humidity up.

Fortunately, neps aren't too picky about it, and all of these mixes will work. It's just a matter of how often you water, if you fertilize, the size of the pot, and the local weather conditions.

Capslock

 

[vraev]

thanks guys! I guess the major advantage is that I can water just twice a week or so.

 

[xvart]

thanks guys! I guess the major advantage is that I can water just twice a week or so.

Yes, now that I have just gone on vacation for 5 days I wish my mixes contained more LFS...

xvart.

 

[vraev]

ARE U SERIOUS!! lol! I need to go on a 5 day trip to buffalo for an test. I still think about that trip to come in august.

 

[The Griffin]

Remember that people's experiences with certain growing mixes also relate to their growing conditions.
As far as lfs as a medium, here is what the Mansells from Exotica say.

"We use both our commercial bark based medium and pure Long Stranded Sphagnum moss with good success. If we had to recommend one we would always choose the sphagnum moss. This gives us not only good success in growing the plants but it is also a good indicator of the plant's environment. In a lot of cases the highland species of Nepenthes grow naturally in live sphagnum moss so when the moss starts growing in our cultivation houses this is a good sign that the conditions are correct. Both the lowland and highland species grow well in Sphagnum moss. The only problem I have heard with regards to growing in Sphagnum is the tendency for it to slime up and break down quickly in areas where the water contains some minerals. A simple but effective way to overcome this is to cover the top of the pot with a layer of bark or similar material."

Cheers,


Joe

 

[vraev]

thanks for that clear answer. Now I guess I can relax a bit and let my neps do their thing to root up and make new foliage.

 

[mannyherrera]

This question is relative. It varies from species to species. While I use at least some sphagnum in my Nep mix, I've moved away from it for stuff that likes it a bit drier (i.e. merrilliana, sumatrana, veitchii, etc.). I use mostly sphagnum, and sometimes even peat, for the ones that like more water (mirabilis, bicalcarata, ampullaria, alata, etc.).

 

[The Griffin]

Good point, Manny. Some of those you mentioned that like more water are actually grown by some using the tray method.
So, sumatrana likes a drier medium in your experience? Mine is still in the original Malesiana pot with lfs. It needs to be repotted...

Cheers,

Joe

 

[mannyherrera]

Hi Joe. The Neps I grow in full sun next to my Sarrs actually sit in trays (the Sarrs do not, by the way). These are: khasiana, several forms of alata, mrabilis x khasiana, emmarene, and alata x maxima. Sumatrana, I've noticed (and have been informed), does indeed like it drier and shadier.