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Min-Max temps for nepenthes Bellii & campanulata ?

D

dan d

I have did my homework on both plants in there natural environments, min temp is what I'm concerned about as I doubt I will ever exceed the 95 degree max temp in their environment. It appears like the campanulate only has lows of 75 degrees in its Borneo environment, but what I have read it seems like the Bellii is more sensitive to low temps even though the philippeans get a few degrees cooler.

I have them in a 55 gallon tank, some natural (north window) & daylight 6500k fluorescent supplemented lighting. Growing in sphagnum with some orchid bark substrate. I also have a small computer fan that kicks on twice a day for circulation in an otherwise enclosed setup. I have been very successful in the past with this setup.

Anyways, The only thing I'm changing from my past growing experience is the temp, I am now more conscious of the fuel bill than I was 10 years ago. I let my house get down to 65 at night and the room the plants are in probably gets down to about 60 (just guessing) I already have it thought out that I could place a 50 watt heat lamp below the growing area, but don't want to if I don't have to.

Just looking for opinions from those who know,
Thanks,
Dan
 
Campanulata hates 45 at night and 65 by day. Don't give it highland conditions, and it crept along at intermediate temps too. I'd go with warm intermediate conditions for it at the chilliest.
 
Edit: Thez, keep in mind those first temps you mentioned are pretty much ultra-highland conditions. :lol:

I can't vouch for either of those two species seeing as I've never grown them, however I believe that many lowlanders can deal with night temps that are below optimum. Of the three lowlanders I have grown: ampullaria, bicalcarata and now clipeata (clipeata x eymae), I would have to say that they all have (mostly) survived in highland conditions.

The ampullaria really did pout in highland conditions, growth was extremely slow and the pitchers were very small, but it did not die due to temperatures. Bicalcarata was similar as well, really slow growth, and very small or no pitchers in highland conditions, but as long as the humidity was high, it would continue growing at least.

Where as highlanders simply cannot tolerate lowland temperatures. They will rapidly decline and die.

If you want really rewarding healthy growth you will probably need to keep the night time temperatures at about 70.

If you want to own the plants and just have them do what they can, they may be able to withstand highland temperatures if they are large, healthy plants to begin with and all other environmental factors are considered.

For instance:

N. bicalcarata in highland conditions

DSCN5535.jpg


In lowland conditions:

SANY0110.jpg
 
I guess I should add that I turn the heat up to 68 during the day and the lights are probably good for a few more degrees on this 55 gallon tank. I used to have dart frogs and monitored the temps pretty good, but I don't have darts anymore and don't want to heat the tank if I don't have to.

It's nighttime temps / gone to work temps that approach the 60 degree mark in this room. Maybe I better dig out my old min max thermometer from the dart frogs and look at getting a heat lamp that I would place below the tank to warm the substrate.

Dan
 
I also have to heat a tank for LL's and using a heat light is one of the most inefficient ways to do that. Human heating pads, or heat tape/reptile heat pads use much less watts and can be left on all the time with little worry of it falling down and burning the carpet or house down like a heat light could.

I use a Sunbeam heat pad ($20) that has a high, medium and low setting. On high I get 86 degrees during the day, and 72ish at night.
 
i've come to the understanding that N. campanulata is more of a warm intermediate rather than a true lowlander. it will appreciate temps into the 80s, and night temps down towards maybe 70s-ish? my deduction about its temperature requirements comes from the observation that it grows notably along cliffsides with running/misting waterfalls which would provide a cooler microclimate than the rest of the region...could be wrong, but the fact that it croaked in my petiolaris tank definitely proves it isnt a true lowlander...
 
31drew31 said:
I also have to heat a tank for LL's and using a heat light is one of the most inefficient ways to do that. Human heating pads, or heat tape/reptile heat pads use much less watts and can be left on all the time with little worry of it falling down and burning the carpet or house down like a heat light could.

I use a Sunbeam heat pad ($20) that has a high, medium and low setting. On high I get 86 degrees during the day, and 72ish at night.
Click to expand...

Makes sense to use a pad, I'm a little nervous using a reptile heat pad as I had one on a custom size tank and it cracked the bottom ! This was 10 years ago when I was growing nepenthes. Don't really know why it cracked, had multiple guesses, one was maybe pouring in cooler distiller water on warm glass ? The other reason was this was a large tank (4 foot X 4 foot x 5 feet tall) and maybe I didnt have it sitting square on its stand, just dont know. yep I used to be a nepenthes growing fool Lol, I want to keep the madness small scale this time around.

Thanks for everyones advice / opinions,
Dan
 
Ever thought of a false bottom with water? You could use an aquarium heater placed sideways to heat the water bellow the plants, in turn heating the terrarium.
 
  • #10
Just my luck, I ran up to Wally world to buy a cheap heating pad. Come home hook it up, put my thermometer in the tank and life is good, temp is slowly rising. About an hour later the temp is dropping ? What the heck ? I then figure out this stupid heating pad has an automatic shutoff after an hour ! Just my luck, thankfully it was only $12 wasted !

I have thought about a false bottom, but messing with stagnant water, plus loosing growing height in the 55 gallon aquarium kept me from going that route. I have the tank sitting on a nice wooden aquarium stand I have plenty of room underneath to come up with a heating source of some sort.

Need to sleep on it, any other ideas ? Like I said it is sitting on a typical 55 gallon wooden stand with doors on the front. I have options for putting heat in there, I'm still thinking about my heat lamp idea, but I do agree with 31Drew that it is probably not the most economical way to go.

Dan
 
  • #12
31drew31 said:
Dan walmart should take it back no problem, and you can buy a different heatpad. The one I bought was from walmart.

This is the one I have, and doesn't have the annoying auto off function. This one is 12"x15", but they also sell a 12"x24" one which would probably be better for your application.

http://www.sunbeam.com/ca/productdetail.aspx?section=health-and-home&cid=7&pid=5477
Click to expand...

Thanks ! Your right, they should take it back no problem, I need to find one of them like you have.

Dan
 
  • #13
And these heat pads... whats the caution when using around water? i have cracked aquarium glass before from heat lamps too close, and misting.

so whats gonna happen when i have a heat pad on the bottom of an aquarium and am misting constantly... minimal moisture getting through the substrate, but its getting through none the less.
 
  • #14
Heating cables under the aquarium?
 
  • #15
Ive never had a problem with the glass cracking... mine is under an aquarium, but has a false bottom with about 1" of water always in the bottom, so misting/watering etc never changes the waters temperature any noticeable amount. I would avoid getting it wet, but looks to be sealed fairly well and getting lightly misted shouldnt cause a problem.

Another option like WireMan mentioned is heat cables, which you could wire to a dimmer switch. I have seen people make their own heat pads with heat cable covered in a thick (2cm) layer of epoxy to seal it. These were used inside monitor cages to heat the soil for appropriate nesting, underneath wet/moist dirt.
 
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