I need help!

[carniverous newbie]

It's been a day less than a week since I planted my different varieties of sundew seeds. However, it has now (too late unfortunately) come to my attention that my cat may have peed in the sand before I mixed it with the peat. I don't know this for sure, because I thought the peeing may have been done after I used the sand, but now I'm getting a rank smell for inside my terrarium and I can't see any mold or rot to account for it, and nothing has happened with my sundews yet (again though, it's only been a week). So I'm thinking of starting again, but here's my dilemma:

I only have a select number of seeds left, and they are so small I have a hard time figuring out how to handle them.

Should I germinate them im a tray of water outside of the warmth of my terrarium first, THEN put them on the soil once the seeds swell and break?

Or should I be able to just take them all and scatter them on the soil right away in the terrarium, keeping them warm and humid until they germinate? If I should do it this way, what's the easiest way to get the seeds from the paper into the pot without losing them since they're so small? Also, since they are so small should I just germinate them all at once to make sure I get at least one plant for each variety out of the deal (I estimate I have approx. around 10+ seeds left per variety)?

I want my sundews, someone help me get my babies up please! I believe these seeds have already been through a stratification process, or whatever the cold period is. The species are listed in an earlier topic I started. Thanks.  

 

 

 

And yes, unfortunately I need idiot-proof instructions because I've never germinated seeds before except for my mimosa of which only one is finally sprouting.

 

[larry]

Go with the water method, it works great. I have given instructions on how to do this in another post.

 

[carniverous newbie]

I know you have, thanks Larry! I may just go with your method and hope for the best.

My only problem with using that method, or any other for that matter, is that these seeds are so small I can barely see them! It makes it hard for me to handle them.

 

[Tamlin Dawnstar]

Here is how I do it:

Have your moistened mix in the pots and ready. Take a sheet of white paper and fold it. Good bright light is needed to see the seed. Put your seed on the paper, and by gently tapping, try to roll individual seeds down the fold, and onto the medium, one by one. Don't sow too thickly: although the seeds are small each one is a potential plant. 25-30 seeds is a good sowing, and this is not much when you see it on the paper. Seedlings grow best when not overcrowded. Keep the end of the fold moving, so that you plant each seed in a different place.

 

[carniverous newbie]

Thanks to both of you! Right now I am flooding the existing ones in the hopes of saving them. If this does not work, I now have enough info. to germinate the next batch!

 

[Shauntell]

If you flood them you could possibly bury them and then there is definately not much of a chance of them germinating.

 

[carniverous newbie]

I thought about that...but it seems either way they were lost, so I thought I'd take a shot in the dark and hope for the best. So sundew seeds aren't like most? They actually won't germinate at all if they are just below the surface of the soil?

 

[Shauntell]

I don't know for sure but from everything that I've read they all seem to say don't bury the seeds in the least little bit becasue they get lost. Maybe they are not strong enough to break through. They also never get that big either. Maybe it's different for neps and sarrs.

 

[Vic Brown]

For Drosera, Utrics and Pinguicula; these tiny seeds should be planted on top of the substrate (not buried).
Nepenthes also germinate well on the surface.
Sarracenia should be very lightly covered, so that you cannot see the seeds, but no more than that. I have also had good germination from seeds that were not covered at all.

Vic

 

[larry]

The very first time I attempted growing Droserae from seed, I made the "mistake" of misting them after they were sowed. But you know what, they germinated anyways.

 

[carniverous newbie]

Ok, I sowed them 2 weeks ago now. Is it still too soon to tell? Or has it been long enough now that I should've seen something and if I don't I should start over?

 

[Tamlin Dawnstar]

I have had tropical seed germinate 2 months after sowing. Be patient.

 

[Darcie]

someone should try "scarifying" these seeds some time. I guess you could grind them up againced one another or smack em with a mallot a few times. Something to make them think they have been heavly weatherd. I am guessing the only reson they germinate at all is the acid in the soild and the osmotic properties of distilled water.... I have a couple extra seeds but I don't want to risk them. To bad I used all my Capillies they have a heavyer seed and would be a good test subject.

 

[carniverous newbie]

I must be doing something wrong....

On Oct. 13 -
I started germinating d. peltata, d. spatulata and d. intermedia

On November 6 -
d. aliciae

On November 11 -
d. burmanii
d. dielsiana

I am seeing nothing at all from any of them. I understand some may take quite some time, but I would have thought that with all the different varieties I would have seen at least on sprout from at least one variety by now.
They were all sown on peat/sand, in my terrarium and bottom watered. I'm afraid to try with the gemmae until I figure out what I could be doing wrong. I don't want to lose all my seed. Any suggestions?

 

[carniverous newbie]

Hello?

 

[droseraholic]

Hi,

I wouldn't worry too much -  Drosera seeds can be slow to germinate sometimes. I sowed some D.peltata (and other tuberous / winter growing species) in the first week of October, and no germination yet - except the possible beginnings of D.macrantha ssp planchonii I noticed just today. In fact, some Drosera can take anything from several months to more than a year to germinate, especially tuberous ones!

The conditions that you describe sound ok.

The D.peltata usually takes from 1 to 4 months to germinate - make sure it has fairly COOL (not cold) nighttime temperatures, say 5 to 10C, and not more than 20C in the daytime, as tuberous species grow in the cooler wetter winters in their native habitat, and the nights can get quite chilly, and this helps to trigger germination and growth. If the seed hasn't germinated by early summer, slowly dry the pots out over the summer, then place in water again from early to mid-September: they may germinate next autumn!

As for D.spatulata, D.aliciae, and D.dielsiana, these are species that don't go dormant, and should germinate in time under your conditions. What temperatures do you maintain the terrarium at? (night? day?). They may wait until the new year / early spring, when the day length starts to increase again and temperatures slowly rise, before they germinate.

D.burmannii is a tropical/sub-tropical species (usually classed as an annual, but it will live longer, even several years, with special care - eg if you cut the flower stems from some of the plants to prevent seed), and will germinate well usually if kept fairly warm.

D.intermedia - depends on the type: do you know if it's a tropical form (eg from Cuba or Brazil) or temperate form (N.America / Europe)? Temperate forms need to have their seeds cold stratified, for example by placing the pot in a fridge (not freezer) for at least a month or two, or outside in the winter. They will then germinate in the spring/summer.

Actually, the ICPS has a good germination guide at it's website:

http://www.carnivorousplants.org/seedbank/seedgermguide.htm

Anyway, I usually keep pots of sown Drosera seed for at least a year! You just have to have patience with them! D.capensis is usually the fastest to germinate (it can do so in less than one month, though it can of course take longer).  There is always the chance that any seed you receive is not viable (i.e. too old to germinate) - but Drosera seeds in most cases lasts longer than many other CP genera. Don't give up! As I said, some may not germinate until spring.

Good luck with your seeds anyway!

Kind regards,

Adam.  

 

[Tamlin Dawnstar]

Seed often takes longer to germinate in the fall and winter months, you need to continue to be patient. Try enclosing the pots in ziplock baggies, and put them in a warmer environment: possibly beneath an incandescent light, but not too close or you will cook them. This may or may not have effect.

Gemmae, however, are not seeds, and cannot be stored long, or they will die. They do not need warm conditions to sprout, but high humidity helps. Again, the zip lock bags work. Sow them now, don't wait.

The seed I gave you is fresh this season, and most growers have gotten good germination from it, so I know it is viable. From what you have said, I feel that it is probably the cooler nights that is inhibiting the process. Try to maintain night temps. of 70F.

 

[NickHubbell]

The seeds I am germinating during the winter are on seed heating mats. These mats cost between $27 and $50 depending on size. I have seen larger mats at higher prices, but I have no room for them. The mats keep the soil about 10-20 degrees higher than room temperature. If you spend another $60, you can get a thermostat that heats the mat up to 95°F. I don't have this unit.

This has helped with germination of Sarracenia purpurea, D. capensis, D. nidiformis, and Nepenthes ventricosa.

 

[Darcie]

Hey CN

My planted seeds are just now germinateing, I put them in the soil early october so expect to wait a while.

 

[carniverous newbie]

Sprouts, I see sprouts!
Just for the dielsiana and burmanii, nothing else. But at least I'm seeing a little something!