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Growing anything from the petiolaris complex?
- Thread starter adnedarn
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- ordensis petiolaris winter
Actually, I was wondering the same thing! I haven't yet grown any of the D.petiolaris-complex plants, but am planning to start a "woolly terrarium"
sometime in the spring! I'll probably try to start the collection from seed.
What sort of artificial lighting and heating arrangement do the experts here use? Would heat mats/pads (as used e.g. by invertebrate & amphibian/reptile keepers) be a suitable idea? (assuming humidity and temperature are regulated correctly).
Also, any special treatment required for seed germination?
Many thanks...
Adam.
What sort of artificial lighting and heating arrangement do the experts here use? Would heat mats/pads (as used e.g. by invertebrate & amphibian/reptile keepers) be a suitable idea? (assuming humidity and temperature are regulated correctly).
Also, any special treatment required for seed germination?
Many thanks...
Adam.
External heat pads might work to heat the tank but I am not sure they would be too good as they would heat the media too and while in nature these guys probably see 120F fairly regularly the soil itself does not get that hot.
I would suggest using incandesant bulbs or maybe evan one of those IR reptile bulbs. I am trying to think up a strategy for my falconeri so I will post any ideas I come up with.
I would suggest using incandesant bulbs or maybe evan one of those IR reptile bulbs. I am trying to think up a strategy for my falconeri so I will post any ideas I come up with.
well as the plant may see up to 120 degrees it is not (from what I understand) necessary for them to be this hot. the person of which I am purchasing my plants has them sitting in water which is heated by a 50 watt fish tank heater to 80 degrees all the time. my problem with this is first, I usually let most of my plants dry out approx once a week... if the water must be heated then it will never dry out (heater can't work out of water) second, you get stagnant water which will be needed to cleaned out every so often... blah blah blah. I have seen this thing which has to sit on the top of the tank... so that won't work... the lights need to be up there.....
Andrew
Andrew
If you wanted to do a heated water tank you can buy flaoting grid work and put your other plants on that, keeping them out of the water. Not much you can do about having to clean it though.
Parasuco,
Your idea might work but I still think the pots sitting on the bottom of the tank would conduct the heat into the soil. Might bear experimenting though
Parasuco,
Your idea might work but I still think the pots sitting on the bottom of the tank would conduct the heat into the soil. Might bear experimenting though
Hello Adnedarn
Just to put my twopenneth in...!
I have a Woolly set-up, in which I successfully grow about 10 different woolly species. The tank contains about 50 plants in total now. I use a large aquarium, with a layer of Hortag (a sort of clay pellet) on the bottom of the tank onto which I have placed a layer of live sphagnum moss which helps maintain the required humidity. All plants are grown in large, tall pots using a soil mix of 60% spag moss peat, 40% perlite.
I do not use the tray system for watering as per the rest of my CPs. The pots are never actually standing in water. The pots remain clear of any standing water since they are on the moss/hortag layer. I often let the the soil mix dry out - no problem. These plants are not from a desert climate where it is boiling hot during the day and freezing at night!! The temperatures remain high throughout the day and night as a result of the 'unique' tropical conditions found in their native Australia. I have found them to be as tough as any CP I know!!
The tank is heated in two ways; the first is by a reptile mat, which I have fixed to the back wall of the tank. This means that heat from this is directed sideways across the plants. The tank is covered with a glass lid on which sits the lighting - a reptile basking lamp. This gives further heat during the 'day' (16 hour photoperiod) and takes the tank temp up to 95 C. The heat mat is on 24/7 so the tank temp never drops below 85C.
Thats about it! Its really not that difficult and if you're a real Drosera fan like myself then they are a 'must have'!!!
If you have any further questions or wish to discuss further please email me on;......andy@triffidnurseries.co.uk
Just to put my twopenneth in...!
I have a Woolly set-up, in which I successfully grow about 10 different woolly species. The tank contains about 50 plants in total now. I use a large aquarium, with a layer of Hortag (a sort of clay pellet) on the bottom of the tank onto which I have placed a layer of live sphagnum moss which helps maintain the required humidity. All plants are grown in large, tall pots using a soil mix of 60% spag moss peat, 40% perlite.
I do not use the tray system for watering as per the rest of my CPs. The pots are never actually standing in water. The pots remain clear of any standing water since they are on the moss/hortag layer. I often let the the soil mix dry out - no problem. These plants are not from a desert climate where it is boiling hot during the day and freezing at night!! The temperatures remain high throughout the day and night as a result of the 'unique' tropical conditions found in their native Australia. I have found them to be as tough as any CP I know!!
The tank is heated in two ways; the first is by a reptile mat, which I have fixed to the back wall of the tank. This means that heat from this is directed sideways across the plants. The tank is covered with a glass lid on which sits the lighting - a reptile basking lamp. This gives further heat during the 'day' (16 hour photoperiod) and takes the tank temp up to 95 C. The heat mat is on 24/7 so the tank temp never drops below 85C.
Thats about it! Its really not that difficult and if you're a real Drosera fan like myself then they are a 'must have'!!!
If you have any further questions or wish to discuss further please email me on;......andy@triffidnurseries.co.uk
Hi Andy,
Nice to see you here in the colonies
Thanks for the nice info on the Woolies, but I have to make one small correction. When you state you keep your plants at 95C, I assume you mean 95F, otherwise they would burst into flame, hee hee.
I agree that these are tough plants and real gems for any collection. I only wish they were more available here in the U.S.
Any chance of you showing us some photos of your plants?
Nice to see you here in the colonies
Thanks for the nice info on the Woolies, but I have to make one small correction. When you state you keep your plants at 95C, I assume you mean 95F, otherwise they would burst into flame, hee hee.I agree that these are tough plants and real gems for any collection. I only wish they were more available here in the U.S.
Any chance of you showing us some photos of your plants?
Tamlin......you're absolutely right!! Fahrenheit,Celcius, Kelvin, Drat!
F=9/5C +32 if my distant O-level Physics still holds! It was a Schoolboy Error as we say over here in England!! I did indeed mean F and not C!
Apologies to anyone who, if as a result of my last post, has now torched their beloved Woolly Sundews and burnt them to a crisp!!
If so, simply collect the ashes, suspend in water and 'Hey Presto', your own Smoke Water for use on those difficult-to-germinate CP seeds!!!!!!
As Python once said.."always look on the bright side of death..."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Andy
PS I'll get my camera out this weekend and take some piccies.
F=9/5C +32 if my distant O-level Physics still holds! It was a Schoolboy Error as we say over here in England!! I did indeed mean F and not C!
Apologies to anyone who, if as a result of my last post, has now torched their beloved Woolly Sundews and burnt them to a crisp!!
If so, simply collect the ashes, suspend in water and 'Hey Presto', your own Smoke Water for use on those difficult-to-germinate CP seeds!!!!!!
As Python once said.."always look on the bright side of death..."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Andy
PS I'll get my camera out this weekend and take some piccies.
