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D. binata and D.rotundifolia, can seedlings be
- Thread starter jodajo21
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- binata dormancy grow rotundifolia
Rotundifolia will probably go dormant on it's own unless you take active measures to prevent it. Half inch rosettes are likely to survive if they do go dormant.
Binata for me does not go dormant, and does not require this if temperatures are kept constantly warm. On occasion my plants have had snap dormancies from exposure to temps below 50F: they can be sensitive at times and a few cold nights will trigger the dormancy. You can tell this when the traps stop emerging and a stubby red center seems to form in the center of the plant. IF this happens keep evenly moist to wet, but not waterlogged or sitting in water. Let it rest a few weeks if this happens, and the plant will return from the stumpy center when the temps are higher at which time the plant will appreciate very wet conditions again. Warm temps seem to be the factor governing the breaking of dormancy in this species.
Dormancy may possibly be prevented in rotundifolia by maintaining the photoperiod at 16 hrs. or above, but I have done no experiments in this area. My rotundifolia usually reach flowering size in one season when sown in middle winter. Photoperiod is often the trigger for many plant processes, and regular adjustments of photoperiod are normally required for the temperate species (to form hibernacula as they enter dormancy), as well as the tuberous Australian species which need less than 12 hr daylength to grow, as they too are winter growers. If the photo period increases, they attempt to go dormant, just the opposite of the North American temperate species.
Pygmy species also require adjustment of the photoperiod when grown indoors for the winter. Gemmae are produced with a daylength of @ 11 hr. or less. Their principal growing season is in winter-late spring, and the gemmae grow best with the photoperiod around 12 hrs., gradually increasing.
Other dormancy issues involve the South African winter growers which behave the same as the Australian tuberous species.
Binata for me does not go dormant, and does not require this if temperatures are kept constantly warm. On occasion my plants have had snap dormancies from exposure to temps below 50F: they can be sensitive at times and a few cold nights will trigger the dormancy. You can tell this when the traps stop emerging and a stubby red center seems to form in the center of the plant. IF this happens keep evenly moist to wet, but not waterlogged or sitting in water. Let it rest a few weeks if this happens, and the plant will return from the stumpy center when the temps are higher at which time the plant will appreciate very wet conditions again. Warm temps seem to be the factor governing the breaking of dormancy in this species.
Dormancy may possibly be prevented in rotundifolia by maintaining the photoperiod at 16 hrs. or above, but I have done no experiments in this area. My rotundifolia usually reach flowering size in one season when sown in middle winter. Photoperiod is often the trigger for many plant processes, and regular adjustments of photoperiod are normally required for the temperate species (to form hibernacula as they enter dormancy), as well as the tuberous Australian species which need less than 12 hr daylength to grow, as they too are winter growers. If the photo period increases, they attempt to go dormant, just the opposite of the North American temperate species.
Pygmy species also require adjustment of the photoperiod when grown indoors for the winter. Gemmae are produced with a daylength of @ 11 hr. or less. Their principal growing season is in winter-late spring, and the gemmae grow best with the photoperiod around 12 hrs., gradually increasing.
Other dormancy issues involve the South African winter growers which behave the same as the Australian tuberous species.
