Attention car people

[Pyro]

Blew the water pump on my '89 Land Cruiser. This is my only car so I kind of need to get it running again. I have pulled out everything to the water pump and disconnected all the hoses to the pump but I have a semi-serious crimp that I need to find a way past and I'd love some help.

Here is the situation:

Picture the water pump. Going off to the driver's side are 2 small nipples, going off to the passanger side are one small nipple and the main flow pipe. The pump is mounted to the block by 2 bolts that go into the block and 2 bolts that come out of the block. Here is the crimp, the main flow pipe goes behing/under the power stearing pump and (what is I think) the air compressor pump. If I try to pull the water pump straight off the flow pipe catches on the suppotr spar for the other pumps. And because of the 2 bolts coming out of the block I can not pull the pump any direction other then straight.

So... The solution I am looking for is one that allows me to remove the water pump without having to remove the power stearing and A/C compressor pumps (I already have too many freaking parts taken out as it is I DO NOT want to have to pull out any more and run the risk of serious ly shooting myself in the foot.

And just to silence the wise guys that I know are lurking (

) Taking it to a dealer or repair shop are not answers I am willing to consider. I have already spent too much time and effort this far so I am not going to tuck tail and give up. And so far Google has done nothing for me.

Replies here, PMs and emails are all accepted.

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

[adnedarn]

Pyro, I've worked on many cars but this one does not ring a bell. Simple solution is a book specifically to your vehicle. When I was an auto-tech we used All-Data books. VERY helpfull. Back then they were expensive disks.... Now you can purchase online access to your car 1 year for $24.95. I just purchased the one for my truck like a week ago for an electrical problem diagnosis. Now, a second car is only $14.95... So if you don't want to spend the 24.95 I'd be willing to open the 2nd car on my account and you could pay the 14.95 and i could fax/email the information you need from the internet pages.... It's a good resource to have. Much better than the books you get at autozone, pepboys all that.... If you get the service and still need some help finding what you need or anything, feel free to contact me. Good luck!
www.alldata.com
Andrew

Edit: I just checked, and I can change the password on the account. So I could change the PW so you'd have direct access to it whenever you need it over the next year if you want to add on to my account....

 

[Pyro]

Quote[/b] (adnedarn @ May 01 2006,8:53)]Much better than the books you get at autozone, pepboys all that....  

I know all about these books. I have the HAYNES for all Land Cruiser years '85-present. Great photos... of a 2000 model, which has a different engine and under hood layout than an '89. And the instructions it gives are just as helpful.

To replace water pump follow these simple instructions:

1) Remove fan and fan shroud
2) Remove fan assembly
3) Remove fan pully system
4) Remove old water pump.
5) Instalation is reverse of removal


Well gee... You think??



Andrew, I might take you up on the offer. I just got some advice from a co-workers brother who is a mechanic. If that does not work tonight I'll shoot you a line. Thanks



Oh and for anyone interested, don't bother calling dealers or specialty repair shops for help. Here is what I got this morning:

5 calls made to Toyota dealers or Toyota specialist workshops.

2 put me on hold to "find someone" who would help and then disconnected.

1 told me they don't work on Toyotas (though how they could have the name 'Toyota Specialists' I don't know.)

1 told me "No! This is not a learning institution! I fix the cars for people not tell them how to do it." And then hung up on me.

And the last one tried to find something but all he could find was that the work time was 1.8 hours so he figured it couldn't be that hard.

 

[herenorthere]

Geometry is geometry. If it doesn't come out with out removing something else, then you have to remove something else. I know you've already done this, but you look at it from every possible angle, above and below, and if there isn't a clear path, you have to move something out of the way. Even if you could disassemble the water pump in place to get it out, you don't want to have to do that to its replacement. As for calling mechanics for tips, it's kinda like calling a restaurant for cooking advice. In the old days when the same guy pumped gas and fixed cars, I felt free to ask for a minute of advice, which is probably all you need. But that's ancient history now.

 

[Pyro]

Geometry can be foiled if you warp the system. I am certain there is an easy way to do it, the spec books quote 1.8 hours to replace a water pump and there is no way that pulling the water pump along with the whole power stearing pump and A/C pump on top of the pulleys for all systems woudl take that short a time. I admit I ain't no mechanic but I'm not a total monkey either.

I think the solution is going to be to double nut the bolts from the engine. The idea being that the outer nut will lock the inner nut so the whole thing will behave like a bolt head and I can unscrew those bolts from the block which should give me the freedom of motion I need. At least I hope so... I'll find out when I get home.

 

[cool85k5]

In other words you have studs holding the water pump on,thats why you have to pull it straight off.And you can take them out,just be carfull and don't break them off or you will be having fun!

By the way,is this a cast iron or aluminum block?


Jerry

 

[CopcarFC]

Dude I am totally lost here, I only work on Rotory's.

But if you could post a few pics of the situation? I would assume that the air and steering pump don't need to come completly off, but rather they need to be moved. Components like that always (On RX7's atleast) can be ajusted without removing them.

I would go out and get the right Haynes manual for your car. As simple as the instuctions are, they have always worked for me.

 

[Pyro]

Quote[/b] (CopcarFC @ May 01 2006,12:47)]I would go out and get the right Haynes manual for your car.  As simple as the instuctions are, they have always worked for me.

I have the right HAYNES book, it just sort of fails because it is trying to cover too many years worth of models and all the ones photo'd in the book are of a 2000 model. For the most part the differences are probably minor but in this case they are major.

And as for simple... I am all for simple but there are some situations where you can be overly simple. The people who wrote this book seem to be the overly simple type which leads to more trouble than the book is worth IMHO.

To liken it to CPs, they are simple to grow and there are simple directions on how to grow them. That said if someone asks you "How do I grow CPs?" You don't answer with "Put them in a pot with dirt and water them." Sure,that answer is both simple and strictly factual but anyone who follows it is 90% certain to lose the CP they are trying to grow.

 

[Pyro]

Quote[/b] (cool85k5 @ May 01 2006,12:41)]In other words you have studs holding the water pump on,thats why you have to pull it straight off.And you can take them out,just be carfull and don't break them off or you will be having fun!

 By the way,is this a cast iron or aluminum block?


                         Jerry

That is about the thck and thin of it, yes.

The block is cast (I think.) It doesn't ping like aluminum when I drop stuff on it/knock against it.

 

[adnedarn]

Yah, that's the cool thing about Alldata- it covers your year, your make, your model, your engine, your transmission, etc.... (they dont' wanna give you access to too many models for free! lol) I also have the Haynes book. for some stuff it's good. for others, it is not. for example. 2003 Dodge Dakota quad cab 4 x 4 with 4.7L V-8 code p0499 Book doesn't even know that code exists. hahahha... Alldata gave me a flow chart to check everything and I found the frayed wires in about 5 mins after I started checking... (Darn too big tires hitting the wires in the wheel well when i turned left...

)
Anyway- lemme know dude! The double nut kit (or even buying the stud retraction tools (remove studs without messing up threads) ) can be VERY handy in removing stuff when things are tight. That is in fact a mechanic trick that we use pretty often to get the job done quicker and make more buck per hour.
Andrew

 

[CopcarFC]

I guess I'm in luck, Haynes manuels are pretty specific for RX7's. Anyway, good luck with yours bro.

 

[technoracer]

the short of it is that the haynes manuals are infierior when compared to alldata or a fsm (factory service manual from a dealer). i tried to get a buddy of mine to check out the alldata for it, but he already left for the day...

any updates? is there only one engine available for that year land cruiser? and dont forget, use distilled water with your coolant, not tap water.

tech...

 

[Pyro]

Well the double nut trick worked. So I got the old one off in a flash after that and the new one on. And then I put everything else beck one minus the fan shroud (which is a real beast to hevr to work around.) and fired it up for a test run. All looks and sounds good, might have the belts a little loose but I can tighten them up this afternoon when I put the shroud back on.

So it seems that the 1.8 hours quoted in the handbooks pulled out to 2.5 days but at least I can say I did it myself

And next time it happens (which I doubt will be on this car cause I don't think it is going to make 500K+ miles) I'll have a better idea of what I am doing.

Thanks for all the help and tips guys, I appreciate it.

Cheers