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2 questions

Trapper7

Loves VFT's!
Hey Guys! I've got 2 questions for you today.First is,I went to WalMart today and found a big bag of soil.It said on it "Tropical Soil"and these are the ingredients:Sedge Peat,Sphagnum Peat Moss,Compost,Vermiculite,Perlite and Slow Release Fertilizer.Now my question is,would this be a good soil to use for my CP's?Cause it has the Sphagnum Peat Moss and Perlite in it that I heard was good,but I know it doesn't have the sand.My second question is:I'm getting some VFT and Pitcher Plant seeds coming next week and I would like to know how I should care for them so they become nice,healthy plants.How much water,humidity and such do they need?How much light?And how many seeds should I put in a 4 inch pot?And how fast are they suppost to grow from seedlings?Like would it be 3 weeks before I see something coming out of the dirt?Sorry for all the questions.Hope to hear from you guys soon
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Take care!*Niki*(Trapper7)
 
Hey Nki, you might want to move this post to General, it is more likely to be answered there.

As for the soil, no, it will not work. Cps do NOT like fertilizers very much and they can't tolerate any other moss EXCEPT peat/sphagnum. The compost will put nutrients in the soil which is just as bad a the fertilizer, and the vermiculite is not preferred.
For those two kinds of plants sphangum/peat, perlite and Long-fibred sphanum(LFS). I am not very experienced in VFT seeds but I do have a post if I can find it on Sarr seeds. I'll pm it to you.
 
[b said:
Quote[/b] (Trapper7 @ Mar. 06 2005,5:27)]I'm getting some VFT and Pitcher Plant seeds coming next week and I would like to know how I should care for them so they become nice,healthy plants.How much water,humidity and such do they need?How much light?And how many seeds should I put in a 4 inch pot?And how fast are they suppost to grow from seedlings?Like would it be 3 weeks before I see something coming out of the dirt?Sorry for all the questions.Hope to hear from you guys soon
smile.gif
Take care!*Niki*(Trapper7)
Rather than planting in larger pots, I'd strongly recommend getting the 1020 greenhouse flats, humidity domes, and 72-compartment seed starters I PMed you about.

That's the best way to start seed.
 
Hey Niki,

I am no expert on VFT or sarr seed but here is what I do know about Sarr seed. This is the same info (with a few modifications) that I gave to some people previously and I am sure it works because it is basically a mixture of what a WHOLE bunch of other poeple have said:

Stratifying seed my way: put seed on peat moss, and do not cover the seed with soil. Place a type of greenhouse lid on the plants and stick them in a cold area(a little light is good but not very much is needed). Keeping the soil damp-wet for 3-5weeks(I did it the whole month a Feb, and just into March, but you can do it anytime of the year, I was just giving you a time period). This is a time that you really need to watch for fungus(you can spray them if you want, I didn't and it came back to bight me later, I'll tell you about at the end along with my other "mis-haps" A good fungicide would be Banrot or Cleary 3336 Fungicide). After about 3-5 weeks, remove them from the fridge and into a bright area, that gets at least 4 hrs of good sun. If you are in a DRY climate, and have to put your adult sarrs in terreriums, then your soon-to-be seedlings will need the same environment so keep the "greenhouse" thing going. If you grow your sarrs open-tray and outside outside in the summer, then you can take the lid off. Basically once they are out of stratification give them the same environment as the rest of your sarrs. Keep the soil damp, and in a few weeks you will see green popping out of those little seeds. This is when you may want to consider giving them a light spray with an insectacide(I use Othene(also labeled as orthenex or ortho, it comes in a dark green bottle) Sevin also works, but will need to be applied more often because it is not a systemic like Orthene).
Now for my mis-haps, I was leaving my seed in my dad's garage, because it was cold out. A few days later, I went out to check on them, and they were baking in the sun.... this happened multiple times, and allowed fungus to run rampant when I put them back in the cold. When stratification was over, I let the soil dry compeltely once, it WAS NOT good. I finally go the seed to sprout, and some slimy(it was not a snail it moved FAST) worm got into my seedlings and ate every single one of them, I was helpless. It was horrible.
Anyway I was not trying discourage anyone here, just giving pointers on what NOT to do. I hope this helps, and if anyone has corrections or futher advice post it so I can add to my instructions.

Later,
~Wes~
 
Hey Wes!Thanks for the info.I just have a few questions about what you said.

put seed on peat moss, and do not cover the seed with soil. Place a type of greenhouse lid on the plants and stick them in a cold area(a little light is good but not very much is needed). Keeping the soil damp-wet for 3-5weeks...Ok how can I keep the soil damp-wet if there is no soil on the seed?You just put peat moss.Does peat moss have soil under it?That is probably a REALLY stupid question,but I have never seen peat moss or grown it so I have no idea,lol.Also when you said keep it in a cold place...Is a fridge a good cold place?Ok well now I've forgotten my other questions so I'll post another message when I remember
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Thanks!*Trapper7*
 
Oh yes,and SarraceniaScott thank you too for your info!
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*Trapper7*
 
Niki,
Sorry, I guess you found a mistake I didn't. It should say: "place the seeds on peat moss without covering the seeds with the moss in the act."
 
  • #10
just a word about growing CPs from seed..
I dont mean this to be discouraging, just offering a dose of realism! ;)

growing from seed is VERY unrewarding for about 5 years!
because here is the schedule:

sow seeds, a few weeks later some tiny green shoots appear!
thats cool!

a year goes by.
the plants barely change at all.
plants are about 1/2 inch tall.

another year goes by.
plants are one inch tall.

the third year goes by.
maybe 2 inches tall.

4th or 5th year, finally decent sized plants!

its just a VERY slow process..
for people new to the hobby, I would recommend not bothering with seeds at all until maybe you have a few years under your belt and really want to try seeds..
and seedlings are MUCH harder to keep alive than adult plants..and they just sit there doing nothing for years and years..if they are catching any bugs, you cant even tell, because the plants are so small.

its MUCH easier to simply buy adult plants!
and get experience with growing and dormancy with those..
adult plants are much easier to deal with..

nothing wrong with growing from seed if you are really into it!
its just a not a great way to get plants if you are new to the hobby..

Scot
 
  • #11
My method: Place sarracenia seed in vial of distilled/reverse osmosis/or rainwater.
Place in cold section of refrigerator.
Ignore seed for six weeks to allow stratification.
Place seed on soil (peat moss) surface.
Soil should be in drained container and placed in water tray. DO NOT water seeded container but, water should be poured into the tray the seeds growing pot is in, not onto the seeds themselves.

Place under grow lights on a heated seed growing pad set at 80 degrees.
Keep growlights on constantly.
Keep water level high.
DO NOT use a greenhouse lid as this cuts air circulation, and seeds can/will be destroyed in place by fungus.
Anywhere from 10 days to 8 weeks, seed will sprout during this time frame.
If you use the natural method as shown by Scotty, expect no real results for at least 2 years.
By the "forced" method, seedlings will be 6 to 8 inches first year, sometimes as tall as 12".
By the end of the second growing season, seedlings will be 12" to 16 ", and can possibly flower at three years old, but more likely 4 years old.
After a second year under lights, seedlings will absolutely have to have dormancy if you expect them to survive like the parent plants.
NEVER LET THE SOIL GO COMPLETELY DRY!!
Stand back and enjoy your plants.
 
  • #12
Wow that sounds great.I think I might try that.~Trapper7~
 
  • #13
Any questions on lighting, just post here Trapper7, and someone will definitely give you a great education on lighting. You can grow all winter this way, and always have plants to enjoy.
 
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